Under £10
Wine Atlas IGP Côtes de Thau, France 2014 (£4.97, Asda)
From a lesser-spotted southern French appellation next to the currently trendy dry white area of Picpoul de Pinet, this is a nicely light but zippy dry white for parties and fishy starters that matches the leafy green and citrus flavours of sauvignon blanc and vermentino with the fuller orchard fruit of grenache blanc.
Star Buy: Aldi The Exquisite Collection Clare Valley Riesling, Australia 2014 (£6.99)
Few wines are more invigoratingly direct and thirst quenching than the dry Rieslings made in South Australia’s Clare Valley. Generally speaking you have to pay more than a tenner for the pleasure, but Aldi’s own label captures the trademark hit of lime juice and citrus pith beautifully at a bargain price.
Paul Mas Clairette, IGP Pays d’Oc, France 2014 (£8, Morrisons)
The fluted bottle suggests Alsace, and the wine inside – made by the ultra-reliable Jean-Claude Mas from a variety, clairette, that usually hides in blends in southern France – has a similar appeal to the dry whites of that region: ripe and round with a mix of blossom and ripe peach and pear cut with citrus.
Taste the Difference Godello, Bierzo, Spain 2014 (£8, Sainsbury’s)
Albariño has so far led the way when it comes to brisk, seafood-friendly whites from north-western Spain (and Sainsbury’s has a very good one in its Taste the Difference range; also £8, also 2014). But godello can be just as good, offering, in this case, a touch more apricot flesh and lemon curd richness to go with the salty freshness.
Golden Valley Graševina, Pozega Valley, Slavonija, Croatia 2014 (£9, Marks & Spencer)
Graševina, aka welschriesling (although it’s no relation to the great German grape) is widely planted in central Europe and often rather ho-hum. Croatian winemaker Krauthaker clearly has a knack with it, however, producing a rich dry almost viognier-like white that shimmers with ripe exotic fruit and honeysuckle.
Muenzenrieder Heideboden Chardonnay, Burgenland, Austria 2014 (£8.99, adnams.co.uk)
When their vineyards are capable of producing superb wines from riesling and the native grüner veltliner, you might wonder why Austrian winemakers bother with the ubiquitous chardonnay. When the results are as good – and good value – as this crisp, gently creamy, apple-scented example, however, the answer is, why not?
Domaine Lyrarakis Mistirio, Crete, Greece 2013 (£9.50, bbr.com)
With its wonderfully evocative nose – a waft of wild herbs such as tarragon, thyme and mint – and its juicy, tangy, slightly spicy citrus-filled palate, this delightful mid-weight Greek dry white, made from the recently recovered local Cretan dafni grape variety, works beautifully with grilled fish and white meat.
Domaine des Forges Premier Cru Chaume, Coteaux du Layon, Loire, France 2011 (£8.49, 37.5cl, Waitrose)
Chenin blanc’s naturally high acidity lends itself to versatility, producing styles from dry to sparkling to the richly, lusciously sweet. That acidity is vital in balancing the gorgeous toffee, butter and baked apple flavours of this liquid tarte-tatin, making a fine foil for both mature Cheddar cheese or fruity desserts.
Under £20
Star Buy: López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Blanco, Rioja 2005 (from £12.95, thewinesociety.com; corksof.com; vinovero.co.uk)
One of the great names of Rioja, Lopéz de Heredia is unusual for the region in that its dry whites are every bit as good as its reds. The traditional recipe of long oak and bottle ageing brings a golden colour and a fabulously complex, waxy mouthful, with flavours of macadamia nuts, pear, honey, hay and lemon thyme.
Blankbottle Moment of Silence, Wellington, South Africa 2014 (from £14.95, stonevine.co.uk; swig.co.uk)
One of the standout producers in South Africa’s exciting new wave of producers, Pieter Walser roams the Cape in search of grapes for his ever-changing range. Here he blends chardonnay, chenin blanc and viognier for a Rhône-like white that matches creamy richness and apricot with Cox’s apple bite and freshness.
Domaine Treloar La Terre Promise Blanc, Roussillon, France 2013 (£14.95, leaandsandeman.co.uk)
Englishman Jonathan Hesford and his New Zealander wife Rachel Treloar have very quickly turned their small estate into one of the best in the Roussillon. Adept at making big but balanced reds, this dry white blend is no less impressive, rich, full but fluent with notes of white flowers and juicy orchard fruit.
Majestic Definition Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2015 (£11.99, or £8.99 as part of a ‘mixed six’, majestic.co.uk)
Tasting a number of Kiwi sauvignons blind with friends recently, Majestic’s own-label bottle came out on top in terms of value, living up to its name by providing all the clean-cut gooseberry and elderflower, verdant verve and tropical tang I look for in the style at a very fair particularly at the ‘mixed six’ price.
Tesco Finest Premier Cru Chablis, France 2011 (£12)
Made for Tesco by the large but reliable local co-operative, La Chablisienne, this is a textbook bone-dry Chablis chardonnay, with an incisive flash of acidity, a touch of creme fraiche and clean, pure lemon and apple fruit. Good value and, it almost goes without saying, a classic combination with seafood and smoked salmon.
Terras Gauda ‘O Rosal’, Rías Baixas, Spain 2014 (from £14.95, slurp.co.uk; vinoteca.co.uk; smilinggrape.com; josephbarneswines.com)
Albariño is the key ingredient in this gorgeous Galician dry white, bringing its characteristically more-ish salty acidity and juicy white peach to a blend that also includes the bay leaf and pear of loureiro and the lemony tang of caiño blanco for a seafood partner with all the bracing freshness of the nearby Atlantic.
Bergström Old Stones Chardonnay, Oregon, USA 2012 (from £19.50, thewinesociety.com; robersonwine.com)
With a collection of small-scale producers working with pinot noir and chardonnay, Oregon is the USA’s answer to Burgundy. Like the French region, the wines aren’t cheap, although you’d be hard pressed to find a better-balanced chardonnay than the chiselled, fine-boned, mineral Old Stones for under £20.
Rustenberg Straw Wine, Coastal Region, South Africa 2012 (37.5cl, £13.49, Waitrose; £8.99 in a ‘mixed six’, majestic.co.uk)
South African winemakers have made something of a speciality of sweet wines produced from grapes dried on straw mats, concentrating the sugar and flavour. I love Mullineux’s complex Olerasay Solera Straw Wine (£29.95, bbr.com), while Rustenberg’s example is an intense, crystallized citrus and apricot treat.
Over £20
Varner Wines El Camino Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Barbara, California, USA 2013 (£24.96, stannarywine.com)
The Varner twins are justly acclaimed for the pinot noir and chardonnay they make in the Santa Cruz Mountains, but this chardonnay from coastal Santa Barbara is just as special. A world away from the increasingly dated cliche of big and buttery California, it’s full of nervy acidity and pristine tropical and citrus fruit.
Star Buy: Josmeyer Alsace Pinot Gris Le Fromenteau 2012 (£23, Marks & Spencer)
All the hallmarks of top Alsace Pinot Gris are present and correct in this spicy, mouthfilling off-dry white: ripe quince, pear and a touch of peach, subtle pepper and exotic spices, and a whiff of the baker’s shop. But, as ever with this brilliant biodynamic producer, they are presented with real verve and freshness.
Domaine François Villard Les Terrasses du Palat Condrieu 2013 (£40, Oddbins)
Viognier may be planted across the world now, but the variety’s original home, the tiny appellation of Condrieu in the Northern Rhône Valley, remains the source of the greatest examples. François Villard’s magnificently exotic creation is one such, offering layers of dancing acidity, apricot, jasmine and frangipane.
Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöle Riesling Spätlese, Nahe, Germany 2011 (from £38.95, tanners-wines.co.uk; bbr.com)
Late morning on Christmas Day may be the perfect occasion for this magnificent riesling from the great Helmut Dönnhoff and son Cornelius. Clocking in at a mere 9% alcohol, the gorgeous ripe orchard fruit, mandarin and lime is tempered by salty mineral freshness, the sweetness providing a cushion for the flash of needle-point acidity.
