It is Kali Puja in Kolkata and we are crossing a narrow footbridge to the river. Later today, hundreds of skull-garlanded deities will be immersed in the sacred water. For now, everyone is here to buy marigolds, tuberose and jasmine for family shrines at home. There is a sea of bright colours and fragrance, people in a hurry gently touch us to pass by. The light is still soft, almost magical.

We watch the morning bathers on the ghats, small children scavenge the river bank, someone fishes for metal with a magnet. A pilgrim prostrates in the mud on slow progress to the temple one body length at a time. Our next stop is the Jaggu Bazar fish market, then to a society grandee’s kitchen where Vivek Singh is cooking a Bengali fish curry with mustard for Diwali.

“Bengalis love fish,” says Singh. “It is part of our culture: river fish, and mustard – yellow fields of it in winter for mustard seed, mustard oil, mustard sauces. It takes me back to times with my mother doing the cooking, maybe four meals a day for at least five of us, three or four things at a go. A coal fire, no leftovers and no refrigeration. I didn’t think she was good when I was growing up but now I understand what an amazing cook she is, though she still won’t allow us in her kitchen.”

Kolkata changed Singh’s life. It is where he worked as an ambitious young chef at the prestigious Gharana at the (still grand) Oberoi Grand. It was from here that he was handpicked for Rajvilas, then India’s most luxurious hotel. He would cook for Naomi Campbell, Bill Clinton and later the restaurateur Iqbal Wahhab, who would lure him to London with talk of a refined style of Indian eaterie. Kolkata was also where he was starting out on married life with his wife Archana, who would be pregnant with their son “as soon as we hit the UK” to launch the Cinnamon Club, 15 years ago.

From the beginning, “memories, dishes with stories to tell, surprises to deliver, have formed the pillar of our menus,” he says. “A Keralan fish curry based on one I had eaten as a child makes me happy.” The Club’s prawn malai echoes the first he had at a big Bengali wedding aged about seven.

His proudest food memory, though, is more recent. “I asked my mum what is the best thing she has eaten,” he says. “She kept quiet and thought about it. After a while she said, ‘It was the biryani you made for your dad and me on our last visit.’ My dad has since died.”

Singh’s parents were conflicted at the beginning about their eldest son’s career plans. “They thought I was meant for bigger, better things,” he says. “Dad worked in mining and they wanted me to do engineering exams. When we left for London, he was disappointed I was going abroad. He loved me and was concerned that people when they go away don’t return to live.”

Our next stop is south: Hyderabad Old City before Friday prayers. A relentless roar of cars, cabs, rickshaws, truck horns and exhaust. Meaty smoke billows from a food stall under the Machli Kaman gate. Two of London’s top chefs are cooking kebabs in Charminar market in front of a huddle of intrigued cops. An excited crowd is wondering why.

These days Vivek Singh and Hari Nagaraj are more used to their splendid Westminster kitchen but they have strong links with this town. They both ate their first mutton biryani here. Singh was in his early days as a chef. Nagaraj, from a local Brahmin family, joined the wrong queue at a wedding. “I was aged 13 and ended up in the meat-eaters’ marquee,” he says. “We were vegetarians at home. I was aware it was mutton. It was like chewing gum.”

The pair share other history. They first worked together at Rajvilas and now side by side for close to 15 years at the Cinnamon Club (the anniversary is next month).

We have come to Hyderabad for a biryani masterclass from Begum Mumtaz Khan. But first the crowd gets to judge the kebabs. Tender, spicy, smoky from cloves and coals, they are of course brilliant – even the tough locals agree.

Later we gather in the begum’s garden. A fire is lit, a pot is on, there is frangipani and an ancient Morris Minor in the corner. A kite swings from a tree. The old lady talks us through her Hyderabadi biryani (mutton is marinated but placed in the pot uncooked, the saffron warmed in milk, the lid sealed with dough). She remonstrates continually with her long-suffering and loving retainers. We are near the end of our trip. We have seen Kali Puja celebrations from a boat on a branch of the Ganges. We have tasted the dishes of Singh’s Bengali childhood reimagined by a talented chef. We have tried some of the best street food on the subcontinent. As the sun dips and we sit on the floor surrounded by monochrome photos of the begum’s gilded youth, we eat the finest biryani I think I will ever have, though I am keen to test Vivek’s mum’s opinion.

The Cinnamon Club, The Old Westminster Library, 30-32 Great Smith St, London SW1P 3BU; 020 7222 2555, cinnamonclub.com

Grilled aubergine with peanut – baghare baingan

Inspired by the ingredients and flavours in a typical Hyderabadi baghare baingan (aubergine curry in sesame, tamarind and peanut sauce), this dish is a play on those familiar flavours with completely different textures. Eat as a vegetarian accompaniment or as a main.

Serves 4
aubergines 2 firm ones, cut widthways into 1cm thick round slices
salt 1 tsp
red chilli powder ½ tsp
turmeric powder ½ tsp
fennel seeds ¼ tsp
carom seeds ¼ tsp
black onion seeds ¼ tsp
vegetable or corn oil 1 tbsp, plus a little extra to brush the aubergines
tamarind chutney 1 tbsp, to serve

For the spice crust
poppy seeds 1 tbsp
white sesame seeds 1 tbsp
desiccated coconut 1 tbsp
peanuts 1 tbsp
vegetable or corn oil 2 tbsp
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped
red chilli powder ½ tsp
salt a pinch
jaggery or brown sugar 1 tbsp
fresh coriander 1 tbsp, chopped
tamarind pulp 1 tsp
chaat masala 1 tsp

Score the aubergine slices lightly to make criss-cross marks. Sprinkle the flesh side with salt, red chilli powder, turmeric, fennel seeds, carom seeds and black onion seeds and leave to sit for 10-15 minutes.

In the meantime, separately toast the poppy seeds, sesame seeds and desiccated coconut in a dry hot pan for a couple of minutes, until they release a roasted aroma, then pour them all into a bowl. Shallow fry the peanuts in a tablespoon of oil, allow to cool, then chop coarsely using a sharp knife. Add to the bowl of roasted seeds.

Heat a tablespoon of oil in a pan and add the chopped garlic and fry until golden, then quickly remove from heat, drain and leave to cool before mixing together with the nuts and seeds.

Combine all the remaining ingredients for the spice crust: chilli powder, salt, jaggery, coriander, tamarind pulp and chaat masala. Spread the spice crust on a tray and leave to dry out in a low oven.

Drizzle a hot grill or pan with oil and heat, then add the aubergine slices, flat-side down, and sear for 2 minutes. Brush the other side lightly with oil then turn and cook for about 3 minutes or until thoroughly cooked through.

Arrange the hot aubergine slices on a plate, then add a dash of tamarind chutney to them and sprinkle generously with the spice crust.

Hyderabadi lamb’s liver kebab – kaleji kebab

Lamb or mutton liver (kaleji) is rather prized in Hyderabad. Lamb’s livers are good in a curry but great simply marinated, skewered and cooked in a hot grill pan, as here. You will need 6 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes.

Serves 4-6 as a starter or accompaniment
vegetable oil 2 tbsp
lambs’ livers 600g, sliced into 1¼cm thick slices
fat chillies or romano peppers 6, if you can find them easily, if not use 1 red onion (optional)

For the marinade
ginger and garlic paste 1 tbsp
dried red chilli flakes 1 tsp
dried red chilli powder ½ tsp
turmeric ½ tsp
cumin seeds 1 tsp, lightly roasted
salt 1 tsp
sugar ½ tsp

To serve
lemon juice of 1
chopped coriander 2 tbsp

Mix together all of the ingredients for the marinade, add to the sliced liver, then set aside for 15-20 minutes.

Cut the chillies into large dice or, if using peppers, slice them into 1½cm thick rounds. If using red onion, cut into 6 wedges, discard the skin, peel off the petals and separate them. Alternate the lamb liver with the pepper or onion and thread onto the pre-soaked bamboo skewers. Refrigerate until ready to cook.

Heat up a grill pan, drizzle with a bit of oil, arrange the skewers on the pan, and let them cook for 2-3 minutes on each side. Serve drizzled with lemon juice and coriander.

Hyderabadi mutton or lamb kebab – pathar ka gosht

This is one of the most famed kebabs from Hyderabad. Traditionally made with thinly sliced mutton leg which is marinated with black spices (black cardamom, cloves, pepper, allspice and a lichen known as black stone flower) and tenderised using raw papaya paste, these would be cooked over hot stones – hence the term “pathar” which means stone in Hindi. In a domestic kitchen, these are cooked just as well on a hot griddle pan. Being tenderised with papaya paste, they literally take minutes to cook and make for an excellent filling inside wraps.

Serves 4-6 as a main
mutton or lamb legs 750g, deboned, fat trimmed, sliced thinly into ½cm slices
mustard or corn oil 3 tbsp

For the first marinade
salt 2 tsp
red chilli powder 1½ tsp
ginger and garlic paste 2 tbsp
grated raw papaya or pineapple juice 1 tbsp

For the spice mix
black cardamom pods 4
peppercorns ½ tsp
cloves 1 tsp
whole allspice 1 tsp (optional)
black stone flower 1 tbsp, optional (available online)
yogurt 2 tbsp
crisp deep-fried onions 4 tbsp
fresh coriander stalk 50g
lemon juice of 1

For the first marinade, mix together the salt, chilli powder, ginger and garlic paste and grated papaya or pineapple juice, add to the mutton or lamb slices and set aside.

For the spice mix, heat a small frying pan and dry roast the cardamom, peppercorns, cloves, allspice and black stone flower (if using) for 2-3 minutes constantly moving to toast evenly. Let cool and then grind coarsely.

Mix the ground spices with the yogurt and onions, and then blend to a paste using a small blender or a pestle and mortar. Smear the spice mix on top of the marinated slices and sprinkle with coriander.

Set aside the marinated meat for at least 30 minutes (you could also prepare it the day before and refrigerate overnight).

Thread the meat on pre-soaked bamboo skewers and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side on a very hot griddle pan. Let them rest for a minute or so. Serve sprinkled with lemon juice and bread of your choice.

Prawn curry – chingri malai

In Bengal, the period between Durga Puja and Kali Puja (Diwali) is known as Bijoya or the victory of good over evil. During this time people visit family and friends with sweets, exchanging gifts and eating. One of my earliest food memories is having this delicious prawn curry at one of the several Bijoya dinners, served inside a green tender coconut.

Makes 2 generous portions
freshwater prawns 400g, peeled and de-veined (the largest size you can find!)
turmeric 1 tsp
salt 1 tsp
vegetable oil 90ml
bay leaves 2
red onions 3 medium-sized, blended to a fine paste
ground cumin 1 tbsp
ginger and garlic paste 2 tbsp
water 100ml
green chillies 2, slit lengthways
coconut milk 75ml
shellfish stock 1 cup
sugar ½ tsp (optional)
ground green cardamom ½ tsp
fresh coriander 1 tbsp, chopped
lime juice of ½

Marinate the prawns with ½ a teaspoon each of turmeric and salt.

Heat 60ml oil in a pan and add the bay leaves and onion paste and sauté for 6-8 minutes on medium heat until very light brown.

Meanwhile heat the remaining oil in a non-stick frying pan and sear the prawns briefly for a minute or two then set aside.

Mix the ground cumin, the remaining turmeric and the ginger and garlic paste in 75ml of water and add to the onions, reduce the flame and cook out for a further 2-3 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the remaining salt, the green chillies and the prawns and stir for 1 minute. Mix in the coconut milk and simmer for 2-3 minutes or until the prawns are cooked, adding a little stock if necessary. Correct the seasoning with salt and sugar and sprinkle over the cardamom powder, coriander and a squeeze of lime.

This is best eaten immediately and served with freshly boiled basmati rice, mixed through with a tablespoon of ghee or cold salted butter, a pinch of smoked sea salt and freshly cracked pepper.

Hari’s Hyderabadi kacchi biryani of mutton or goat

Biryani is often called the king of dishes. It’s much more than “meat downstairs, rice upstairs”, as I heard an east London waiter once describe it to a curious American tourist. Most curry house renditions of it involve stir-frying pre-cooked lamb with pilau rice. Throughout the subcontinent there are regional variations, some more aromatic, others spicier.

In Hyderabad they follow the traditional route of making “kacchi” biryani, where the rice is cooked in the juices of the mutton (or often goat). The lid of the pot in which it is traditionally cooked is sealed with dough so none of the aromas escape during cooking and it is cracked open just before serving, thrilling all those around by the huge waft that immediately fills the room. This is a difficult dish to get right but worth the effort. In my lifetime I have made and eaten several versions of biryanis, but rarely have I had better than Hari’s Hyderabadi biryani.

Serves 4-6
leg of mutton (or goat) 1kg, diced into cubes of about 2½cm (meat on the bone would be preferable)
basmati rice 500g

For the marinade
ginger paste 1 tbsp
garlic paste 1 tbsp
red chilli powder 1 tbsp
ground garam masala 1 tsp
turmeric 1 tsp
mint leaves 1 small bunch, chopped
onions 3 medium-sized, sliced and fried till golden
green chillies 6, slit lengthways
nutmeg ¼, grated
lemon juice of ½
vegetable oil 2 tbsp
saffron a small pinch
fresh green papaya paste or fresh pineapple juice 1 tsp
salt 1 tsp
natural yogurt 100ml

For the rice
saffron a small pinch
milk 50ml, warmed
water 4 litres
green cardamoms pods 3
bay leaves 2
black cardamoms pods 2
cloves 4
mace 2 blades
cumin seeds 1 tbsp
salt 2 tbsp
chopped mint 1 tbsp
sliced fried onions 1 tbsp
ghee or butter 50g

This requires a broad heavy-bottomed casserole or a pot with a tight fitting lid.

Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade with the lamb and leave aside for 4 hours (or refrigerate overnight). Then place the marinated meat in the casserole.

In a bowl, soak the saffron in the warm milk. Wash the basmati and soak it in a separate bowl for 30 minutes.

Take a pot and boil the water with the whole spices and salt. When the water is boiling, add the strained rice and boil for 10 minutes: the rice needs to be 50-60% cooked or slightly less than al dente.

Strain the half-boiled rice and layer it on the marinated meat, then sprinkle the mint, fried onion, ghee and soaked saffron on the rice, cover the casserole with a lid and wrap tin foil around the sides to seal (or a stiff dough made with plain flour and water).

Put the casserole on a high heat for 8-10 minutes; make sure the flames are evenly spread all across the base of the casserole. When you see steam escape, turn the heat right down and cook the biryani for 20-25 minutes.

Remove from the heat and set the casserole aside for 5 minutes. Then open the lid and you are ready for the aromatic biryani. Best accompanied with thin yogurt raita.

Fish curry with mustard – shorshe bata maach

The simplest of fish dishes, this is traditionally cooked using the river fish rohu. Thick steaks of the fish are cut on the bone and fried in mustard oil before being simmered in a sauce made from mustard paste, green chillies and yogurt. In the UK, you can use either sea bass or grey mullet.

Serves 4
mustard seeds 35g
green chillies 2
sea bass or grey mullet 8 × 80g steaks, on the bone
vegetable or corn oil to shallow fry
mustard oil 2 tbsp
panch phoran (equal quantities of nigella seeds, fenugreek seeds, mustard seeds, fennel seeds and cumin seeds ) 1 tsp, alternatively use only nigella seeds
yogurt 150ml
turmeric ½ tsp
salt 1 tsp
sugar ½ tsp
water or fish stock 150ml
lemon juice of ½
coriander leaves 1 tbsp, chopped

For the marinade
salt 1 tsp
sugar ½ tsp
turmeric 1 tsp
nigella seeds ½ tsp
red chilli powder 1 tsp

Soak the mustard seeds in 100ml of water and set aside for 30 minutes. Blend the soaked mustard seeds to a fine paste with the green chillies, adding a little water if necessary.

Meanwhile, marinate the fish steaks with the salt, sugar, turmeric, nigella seeds and chilli powder, mix well and set aside for 15 minutes.

Heat the vegetable oil in a pan large enough to fit the fish, and fry the fish on medium heat for 3-4 minutes each side until the steaks are crisp on the outside and cooked inside.

Meanwhile in a separate wok or pan, heat the mustard oil and add the panch phoran, and let it crackle and pop for 30 seconds or so. Add the mustard paste and cook for a couple of minutes on a medium heat, stirring continuously. Then stir in the yogurt and mix well to prevent splitting.

Add the turmeric, salt and sugar, then cook for 2-3 minutes. Check the seasoning, add stock or water if needed to thin the sauce to coating consistency, then add the fried fish and simmer for a couple of minutes until heated through. Finish with a squeeze of lemon and sprinkle with the coriander leaves. Serve hot with plain boiled rice.