Compiled by Molly Tait-Hyland 

Taste test: Easter eggs and hot cross buns

Michel Roux Jr tastes and rates the high street eggs, from children’s favourites to luxury grown-up treats
  
  

Michel Roux Jr. photographed at Le Gavroche, Mayfair.
Michel Roux Jr. photographed at Le Gavroche, Mayfair. Photograph: Alex Lake for Observer Food Monthly

Children’s eggs

Charbonnel et Walker
Peter Rabbit Egg
115g, £15, selfridges.com
Beautiful. This almost looks French. A classic look, it reminds me of my childhood. Crunchy chocolate. Very milky and very sweet.
★★★

Chococo
Butterfly Studded Egg
175g, £9.95, chococo.co.uk
Looks artisanal. Darker - more to my taste. It’s been dipped several times. Incredibly thick, there’s no finesse here.
★★★

The Co-operative
Fairtrade Milk Chocolate Cookie Egg
185g, £5, co-operativefood.co.uk
Not sure what the decoration is - it looks like a scab … or a cookie? It’s not very appealing. Not chocolatey enough for me.
★★

Waitrose
Milk Chocolate Egg with Dolly Mixtures
150g, £4, waitrose.com
Quite clever. Nicely moulded chocolate. The sweets are horrible - urghhh - I would not give that to my child.
★★


Luxury eggs

The Chocolate Society
Gold Hammered Egg
190g, £29.95, chocolate.co.uk
I like the look - an unusual egg with a mottled gold finish. It smells of cacao. Mmm ... the pralines have a crunchy texture. It ticks all of the boxes.
★★★★★

Heston
Golden Chocolate Egg
370g, £20, waitrose.com
Beautifully shiny, smart. The righteous bitter dark exterior is lovely and snappy, good quality. The eggs inside are very sugary.
★★★★

Fortnum & Mason
Assorted Truffle Egg
200g, £37.50, fortnumand mason.com
The chocolates inside are a disappointment. There’s a big swing of flavour between the milk and dark halves. It’s a great idea to have the two.
★★★★

Pierre Marcolini
Dark Chocolate Egg with Praline Eggs and Caramel Animals
250g, £36, selfridges.com
You open up the egg and find a trove of goodies. The chocolate is a bit on the bland side.
★★★


White chocolate eggs

Tesco Finest
The Coconut Egg
370g, £10, tesco.com
Clever. It’s not too sweet because of the bitter cocoa exterior. Quite a bit of coconut. Not too keen on the bonbons.
★★★★

Lidl Deluxe
Eton Mess Egg
200g, £2.99, lidl.co.uk
Good quality white chocolate. The acidity of the fruit counterbalances the sugariness of the chocolate.
★★★

Taste the Difference
Belgian White Chocolate Easter Egg with Pistachios
220g, £6, sainsburys.co.uk
I’m not sure green is the right colour for an egg. The smell is a bit nutty. When you get a crunch of pistachio, it’s nice.
★★★

Stas
White Chocolate Egg Sweetie Design
175g, £7.99, ocado.com
It doesn’t look right. This feels claggy, pasty in the mouth. It’s bland. I don’t like it at all.
No stars


Ethical eggs

Green & Black’s
Dark Easter Egg Collection
365g, £10.99, greenandblacks.co.uk
The two bars are very chocolatey. Whoah, the ginger bar - I love it. The egg has a lingering chocolate taste - hints of exotic fruit.
★★★★★

Montezuma’s
Dark Chocolate with Cocoa Nibs Eco Egg
150g, £7.99, montezumas.co.uk
Beautiful egg - lovely shine. Not quite the right balance of acidity for my taste but nonetheless, good quality.
★★★★

Divine
Luxury 70% Dark Chocolate Egg with Mini Eggs
260g, £10, divinechocolate.com
The smell is very fruity. An almost smoky flavour to the chocolate. I just find it a bit lacking in depth of flavour.
★★★★

Marks & Spencer
Fairtrade Dark Chocolate Saturn Egg with Marc de Champagne Chocolates
390g, £15, marksandspencer.com
A holy egg? The halo is odd. Very full-on. The extras are not great.
★★


Animal eggs

Morrisons
Medium Sheep Easter Egg
150g, £3, morrisons.com
From behind, it looks like a brain. It’s fun! The shell is quite thin and it’s a reasonably good quality white chocolate.
★★★

Asda
Cheeky Monkey
250g, £4, asda.com
It’s cute, it’s funny, it has a nice smile. Shiny chocolate - crunchy as well. And, it actually tastes of chocolate.
★★★

Waitrose
Woodland Friends Milk Chocolate Hop The Frog
200g, £5, waitrose.com
Good snap to it. Quite a nice chocolate flavour, still, incredibly sweet. I can’t figure out if it’s a frog or a kitty?
★★★

Marks & Spencer
Chirpy Charlie Chick
350g, £12, marksandspencer.com
It doesn’t look real or edible. I’m always wary of lots of food colouring. A bit thick. For white chocolate, it’s OK.
★★


Hot cross buns

Marks & Spencer
Luxury Hot Cross Buns
4 for £1.60, marksandspencer.com
Loads of big plump fruit, and a range of different types. Nice bit of cinnamon in the smell, too – but it’s not overpowering.
★★★★

Lidl Deluxe
Luxury Hot Cross Buns
4 for 99p, lidl.co.uk
A bit bland on the spicing and smaller fruit. A shame - I like the bready texture of this one. If you like a chelsea bun, go for this.
★★★

Morrisons
Hot Cross Buns
6 for £1, morrisons.com
Tastes good, but nothing to shout about. It’s not been well glazed. Feels a little bit too light, there should be a bit of chew to it. It’s just coming apart.

Ocado Exclusive
Hot Cross Buns
4 for £1.50, ocado.com
The icing is well lopsided. Almost looks stale and dry. There should be more of a texture to it.

 

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