When you’ve had your fill of steak and chaos in downtown Buenos Aires, the place to come for respite, a seafood fix and a sundowner overlooking the River Plate is Club de Pescadores (Fisherman’s Club). You could call it a local secret, but everyone knows it’s there – perched on its own pier opposite the city’s secondary airport. It’s more that few people bother to make the trip.

More fool them, because this isolated building is something special. With its pointed tower, mansard roof and leaded windows, it looks more like a haunted mansion at an old English seaside resort than an Argentinian fishing club. But though it looks forbidding, you don’t have to be a member to have a nose around; just book a table in its seafood restaurant, El Muelle, which is open to all.

The smell of wood polish from the mahogany staircase hits you as soon as you walk in. The lobby is filled with photos of trophy catches and there’s a wall made of old fishing rods. Upstairs, the dining room is slightly old-fashioned, with crisp, white tablecloths and shiny wine glasses, but that’s half the appeal. No gimmicks, just good food, including squid-ink ravioli, Ecuadorian tuna and locally caught pacú river fish (from around £13).

In finer weather, take a seat on the wraparound balcony overlooking the water. Even as planes fly overhead, it’s oddly peaceful. This should be one of the busiest places in town, but it’s usually half empty. If you’re in the Palermo neighbourhood looking for something different, it’s well worth the 10-minute taxi-hop.

• +54 11 4773 2216, elmuellerestaurante.com.ar