It seems impeccably well-timed, but Chantelle Nicholson insists she didn’t anticipate the massive surge of interest in veganism when she came up with the idea for her new cookbook, Planted: A Chef’s Show-stopping Vegan Recipes, a year and a half ago.

“The whole reason I did a plant-based recipe book was that I liked the challenge,” says the 37-year-old, who is neither vegan nor vegetarian. “It’s something a lot of chefs just ignore and don’t think is important. When I looked around to find resources for plant-based cooking at a restaurant level, there were hardly any.”

Nicholson, who runs Tredwells in London’s Covent Garden, is not one to duck a challenge. She did, after all, stick it out in a number of Marcus Wareing kitchens after moving to London from New Zealand 14 years ago – including a punishing stint at Pétrus in the mid-2000s.

Later, Wareing entrusted her with opening the Gilbert Scott in St Pancras, where she was general manager “and didn’t have a day off for about a year”. Then, in 2014, she opened Tredwells for Wareing and returned to the kitchen, though she still oversees all aspects of the restaurant. As if she wasn’t stretched enough, Nicholson has also been helping Wareing write his cookbooks – she has co-authored four of them since 2009. “I’m not your normal chef,” she tells me, grinning, as we sip water in one of Tredwells’s dark-green leather booths.

The initial trigger, when it came to writing Planted, was puddings – or rather the dearth of appealing dairy-free options. “I have a friend who’s lactose intolerant,” she says, “and if she went to eat out, all she’d get was fruit and sorbet. That’s wrong! You need some creaminess and gooiness in puddings.”

This led Nicholson down some interesting culinary rabbit holes. “What got me really excited,” she says, “was aquafaba” – the thick, watery substance you get in tins of chickpeas which can be used as a substitute for egg whites. “It’s insane what you can do with it: mayo, meringues. When I read about it, I was like, no, this won’t work. But then I tried it and it’s amazing.”

I can attest to the deliciousness of Nicholson’s vegan dishes. A few days after our conversation, I return to Tredwells to try the five-course Planted tasting menu, and I’m struck by the depth of flavour in the roasted jerusalem artichokes with puy lentils and spiced prune, and the buttery richness of the pear and ginger cake.

Aquafaba crops up throughout Planted – I count 24 uses – adding lightness to cakes and mousses and enabling vegan aioli, among other things. Nut butters, almond milk and coconut cream also figure heavily, and Nicholson was happy to discover dairy-free puff pastry in her local supermarket, clearing the way for a tarte tatin recipe (though she was dismayed to find that the Worcestershire sauce in her chicory and mustard cobbler contained anchovies – she switched to mushroom ketchup).

It’s all very clever – and you can sense how much Nicholson relishes the creative constraints – but what about flavour? Can plant-based dishes really provide as much satisfaction as their buttery, creamy, meaty relatives across the vegan divide?

“Definitely,” says Nicholson, explaining that it all comes down to how you approach the ingredients – and her approach, steeped in French cookery methods, can make most things taste good. “People forget that techniques such as caramelisation can be used across the board. A lot of that is missing in vegan cookbooks. When I’m creating a dish, I’m thinking about flavours and textures, not just what’s on the plate.”

Nicholson makes a convincing advocate for plant-based eating, though were she to write another cookbook, it wouldn’t necessarily continue the vegan theme. “I would only do it if it’s something I’m interested in and challenged by.” She pauses. “It has to be a challenge.”

Salt-baked carrots, pine nut and freekeh crumb, roast garlic aioli

Salt baking is a wonderful way to cook any tubers or root vegetables. The seasoned dough encasing the vegetables creates a sealed cooking vessel which essentially steams the carrots while imparting them with seasoning from the salt and herbs.

Serves 4
carrots 4 large, preferably a heritage variety
salt dough 1 quantity (see below)

For the pine nut and freekeh crumb
wholegrain freekeh 100g
olive oil 2 tbsp
non-dairy butter 2 tbsp
panko breadcrumbs 50g
pine nuts 50g, toasted and finely chopped
rosemary leaves ½ tsp, finely chopped
sea salt and freshly milled black pepper
roast garlic aioli ½ quantity, to serve (see below)

For the salt dough
rock salt 50g
flour 100g
rosemary 1 tbsp, chopped

For the roast garlic aioli
aquafaba 60g
dijon mustard ½ tsp
roast garlic puree 2 tbsp (see below)
olive oil 175ml
white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
table salt ½ tsp

For the roast garlic puree
garlic 6 whole bulbs
olive oil 100ml
sea salt

To make the salt dough, mix the ingredients together in a large bowl. Add 65ml of cold water and mix together to form a stiff dough. Cover in clingfilm and refrigerate until needed.

To make the roast garlic puree for the aioli, preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Slice the tops off the garlic bulbs so the cloves are just exposed. Place a sheet of foil on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of oil and sprinkle with salt. Gather the foil over the garlic to make a loose parcel then put the tray in the oven for 30 minutes, then open the foil and cook for a further 15 minutes.

Remove from the oven and allow the bulbs to cool. Remove the outer layer of the bulb and squeeze out the roasted garlic into a blender. Add the remaining oil with 2 tablespoons of water and blend until smooth. Season to taste, then refrigerate for up to a month.

To make the roast garlic aioli, whisk the aquafaba, mustard and roast garlic puree together until combined. Slowly drizzle in the oil, little by little, whisking continuously until fully mixed. Season to taste.

Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Wrap the carrots in the salt dough, place on the prepared baking sheet and transfer to the oven. Bake for 30-40 minutes until a knife goes through the dough and carrots with no resistance. Remove from the oven, chip off the salt dough and allow the carrots to cool slightly.

Cook the freekeh according to the packet instructions and strain off. Mix with the oil and season well.

Heat the butter in a large frying pan over a moderate heat. Add the breadcrumbs and toast until golden. Add the cooked freekeh, pine nuts, rosemary and season with salt and black pepper. Mix well.

Scrape the carrots to remove any skin and the very salty layer. Cut each in half and garnish with the crumb. Serve with the aioli.

Slow-cooked aubergines, tamarind, roasted onion, white bean puree

Cannellini beans are such a handy store-cupboard ingredient. They can be used for salads, soups, curries and also blended to make a wonderfully creamy puree. If you have not used tamarind before, it has a rich, slightly sour taste.

Serves 4
aubergines 2
olive oil 2 tbsp
vegetable oil 2 tbsp
onions 2, peeled and halved from root to tip
non-dairy butter 2 tbsp
roasted vegetable stock 300ml (see below)
sea salt and freshly milled black pepper

For the white bean puree
non-dairy milk 150ml
bay leaves 2
non-dairy butter 2 tbsp
cannellini beans 400g tin, drained and rinsed

For the tamarind sauce
tamarind paste 50g
roasted vegetable stock 100ml (see below)
agave syrup 1 tbsp
cornflour 1 tbsp
coriander to garnish

For the roasted vegetable stock
vegetable oil 2 tbsp
onions 4, roots removed and halved
leek 1, trimmed and cut into four
carrots 3, peeled and halved
celery stalks 2, halved
garlic 1 whole bulb, halved horizontally
tomato paste 2 tbsp
Marmite ½ tsp
rosemary 2 sprigs
bay leaves 2
thyme 4 sprigs
white peppercorns 6
coriander seeds ½ tsp
fennel seeds ½ tsp

To make the roasted vegetable stock, heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over a high heat. When almost smoking, add the onions, leek, carrots and celery and brown well. Add the garlic and brown for 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and Marmite and mix well. Add 8 litres of water followed by the remaining ingredients. Turn down the heat and simmer gently for 2 hours, then strain off. You can refrigerate the liquid for up to five days, or freeze in batches.

Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Halve the aubergines lengthways and score the flesh with diagonal lines. Drizzle with the olive oil and season well with salt. Place in a roasting tray, cover with foil and roast for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and roast for a further 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, set an ovenproof saucepan or frying pan over a moderate heat and add the vegetable oil. When hot, put the onions, cut-side down, into the oil. Season well with salt and brown for 8 minutes until golden, then add the butter and cook for a further 8 minutes. Pour over the stock, bring to the boil, then cover with the pan with a lid or foil. Transfer to the oven and roast for 30 minutes. Once cooked, remove the onions from the pan and reserve the liquid.

For the bean puree, put the milk, bay leaves and butter in a saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer then remove from the heat, add the beans, cover and set aside to infuse for 20 minutes. Remove the bay, then blend the beans until smooth, adding more milk if needed. Season well and keep warm.

For the tamarind sauce, put the tamarind paste, stock and agave syrup in a medium saucepan. Add the cooking liquor from the onions, bring to a simmer and season well. Mix the cornflour with 1 tablespoon of water, then whisk into the sauce. Remove from the heat and pour through a fine sieve.

To serve, place a large dollop of white bean purée onto each plate and add an aubergine half. Using a fork, peel apart the layers of each onion and add to the plates. Finish with the tamarind sauce.

Tempura spring onions with romesco

I much prefer spring onions cooked to raw. Their wonderful sweetness comes out when heat is applied, and they are delicious grilled, roasted or deep fried. Romesco is a great go-to sauce to have in your fridge: it transforms a meal and makes a great dip, sauce or salad dressing.

Serves 4
For the romesco sauce
piquillo peppers 100g (from a tin or jar), drained weight
flaked almonds 50g, toasted
olive oil 40ml
sweet smoked paprika ½ tsp
parsley 1 tbsp, finely chopped
tomato puree 2 tbsp
sherry vinegar 1 tsp
sea salt and freshly milled black pepper

For the tempura batter
plain flour 80g
cornflour 80g
table salt a pinch
soda water 200ml

For the spring onions
vegetable oil for deep frying
spring onions 2 bunches, roots cleaned
plain flour for dusting
sea salt

Begin by making the romesco sauce. Put all the ingredients in a blender and pulse until a chunky paste is formed. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Next make the tempura batter. Whisk the flours and salt together. Add the soda water and whisk until smooth.

For the spring onions, heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer, or pour enough oil into a medium saucepan to reach 3cm in depth, then heat to 170C. Dust each spring onion with flour, then dip in the tempura batter and carefully drop in the hot oil, three at time. Fry for 2-3 minutes until crispy, then remove with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and season with salt. Repeat with the remaining spring onions.

Serve, while hot, with the romesco sauce to dip

Sage and shallot tart, kale and cobnut

Sage is such an aromatic and savoury herb it instantly gives further depth of flavour to a dish. I generally associate it with the colder months of the year, and this tart uses cobnuts, which are in season in autumn. If you cannot source them, use hazelnuts instead – they’re very similar.

Serves 4

banana shallots 1.2kg, peeled and halved lengthways
vegetable oil 3 tbsp
thyme ½ bunch
balsamic vinegar 2 tbsp
non-dairy milk 200ml
non-dairy butter 2 tbsp
roasted vegetable stock 200ml (see slow-cooked aubergine recipe)
sea salt and black pepper
mixed kale 200g
puff pastry ½ quantity (see below) or 1 sheet (320g) ready-rolled vegan puff pastry
non-dairy butter 1 tsp, melted [?]
sage ½ bunch
cobnuts 100g, fresh, peeled and roughly chopped

For the puff pastry
strong flour 200g
plain flour 200g
table salt ½ tsp
non-dairy butter 400g
lemon juice 1 tsp

To make the puff pastry, sift the flours and salt into a large bowl. Rub in 100g of the butter using your fingertips, until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Mix the lemon juice with 140ml iced water then add to the bowl and mix to form a stiff dough. Form into a ball, wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured worktop to form a rectangle about 30 x 20cm. Spread the remaining butter over the left-hand side of the pastry, leaving a border of 2cm around the edges. Fold the right-hand side of the pastry over the left side to seal in the butter.

Now fold the left- and right-hand quarters of the pastry into the middle, then fold in half down the middle, so you have what looks like an open book. Place on a floured tray, cover with clingfilm, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Roll out into a rectangle again, and repeat the folding steps twice before rolling out to use.

Finely slice 400g of the halved shallots. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large saucepan and, when hot, add the sliced shallots and thyme and season well. Cook over a medium heat until the shallots begin to caramelise. When they are a deep golden colour, which will take about 20 minutes, add the balsamic vinegar and mix well. Cook for a further 4 minutes until sticky. Add the milk and remove the thyme stalks. Blend using a stick blender to form a smooth puree. Cover the pan with clingfilm and set aside.

Heat two large frying pans over a high heat with 1 tablespoon of oil in each. When hot, put the shallot halves in the pans, cut-side down, and season well with salt. Cook for 6-8 minutes until the shallots are deeply caramelised. Divide the butter between the pans and cook for a further 4 minutes. Add 100ml of the stock to each pan, then cover with a lid or foil and allow the shallots to cook for 10 minutes until soft.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch the kale, in batches, for 1 minute. Strain off and plunge into iced water. When cool, strain off and squeeze out any excess moisture.

Preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Place the pastry sheet on a baking tray greased with the melted butter. Gently score a 1.5cm border around the edges of the pastry and make indentations in it with a fork.

Put the shallot puree in the centre of the tart and smooth out, leaving the border of the pastry clear. Top the puree with the kale. Arrange the cooked shallot halves over the tart, along with the sage leaves.

Bake for about 16-20 minutes, until the pastry is golden. Garnish the tart with the sliced cobnuts and serve.

Peanut butter pudding, peanut caramel, dark chocolate sorbet

This is one of those desserts that ticks all the boxes for a luscious treat – peanut butter, caramel and chocolate. You can make the puddings as well as the sorbet in advance and freeze until needed. The sorbet is also delicious on its own – it makes a little more than you need for 4 people.

Serves 4
For the peanut butter pudding
aquafaba 80g
caster sugar 80g
ground almonds 65g
plain flour 65g
baking powder ½ tsp
salt a pinch
peanut butter 20g
olive oil 20g
non-dairy butter 20g, melted
non-dairy milk 20ml

For the dark chocolate sorbet
caster sugar 125g
cocoa powder 90g
dark chocolate 90g, minimum 70% cocoa solids, broken into pieces
ice 100g

For the peanut butter caramel
caster sugar 60g
non-dairy butter 30g
non-dairy milk 60ml
peanut butter 1 tbsp
table salt ¼ tsp

Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Grease 4 ramekins, approximately 250ml in volume.

Start by making the sorbet. Put the sugar and cocoa powder in a saucepan with 200ml of water. Whisk well, then place over a medium heat and bring to the boil. Continue whisking and cooking the mixture until it thickens, about 5 minutes. Put the chocolate in a mixing bowl and pour the cocoa mix through a fine sieve onto the chocolate. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then whisk together. Add the ice and whisk until the ice has melted and the mixture has cooled. Churn in an ice-cream maker following the manufacturer’s instructions, or transfer to the freezer and remove and whisk every hour to break up the ice crystals.

For the puddings, whisk the aquafaba in a stand mixer until stiff peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and whisk until glossy and all sugar grains have dissolved.

In a separate bowl, combine the ground almonds, flour, baking powder and salt. In a third bowl, mix the peanut butter, olive oil, melted butter and milk together. Stir the peanut butter mix into the dry ingredients, then gently fold in the meringue. Divide between the ramekins and bake for 10 minutes.

When ready to serve, make the caramel. Put the sugar into a small, heavy-based saucepan or frying pan. Set over medium heat and leave the sugar to melt, swirling the pan occasionally for even caramelisation. Once the sugar has dissolved and reached a deep golden colour, add the butter and whisk to combine well. Bring the milk to the boil, then add to the caramel and whisk well. Lastly, whisk in the peanut butter and salt.

Drizzle the warm caramel sauce over the peanut puddings and serve with a big scoop of dark chocolate sorbet.

Black olive, thyme and onion jam rolls

These rolls are rather moreish, so they may not last more than a day. If you are not a fan of olives you can leave them out or replace with sundried tomatoes or capers. The rolls freeze very well too, just defrost, then pop into a hot oven for a few minutes prior to serving.

Makes 12 rolls
strong white flour 500g, plus extra for dusting
fresh yeast 23g, or 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast
caster sugar 1 tbsp
table salt 2 tsp, plus extra for seasoning
olive oil 50ml, plus extra for greasing
onion jam 1 quantity (see below)
kalamata olives 80g, pitted and finely chopped
thyme leaves 1 tbsp

For the onion jam
non-dairy butter 50g
onions 4, peeled and finely sliced
table salt 1 tsp
balsamic vinegar 25ml

To make the onion jam, heat the butter in a large frying pan over a moderately high heat. When melted, add the onions and salt. Cook the onions until a deep golden colour, stirring regularly. Add the balsamic vinegar and cook for a further 5 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated and the onions are sticky.

For the rolls, mix together the flour, yeast, sugar, salt, oil and 275ml of warm water in a bowl to form a soft, smooth dough that leaves the sides of the bowl. This can be done by hand or using a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Knead for about 10 minutes, until dough is smooth.

Lightly oil the inside of a bowl, place the dough into it and cover with lightly oiled clingfilm. Leave in a warm place for about 1 hour, or until the dough has doubled in size.

Tip the dough out onto a floured worktop and roll it into a large rectangle, about 1cm thick. Spread the onion jam over the dough, leaving a 4cm border on one long edge of the dough. Top with the olives and thyme leaves. Carefully roll the dough in on itself, leaving the border exposed. Brush the border with warm water then fold over the top of the dough. Turn the bread over so that the border seal is underneath. Cut the roll into 8 slices and place each piece cut-side up on an oiled baking tray. Cover with clingfilm and place in a warm place to prove for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 170C/gas mark 3. Remove the clingfilm and bake the rolls for 16-20 minutes until golden and cooked through. Serve warm.

Planted by Chantelle Nicholson (Kyle Books, £25). To buy a copy from the Guardian Bookshop for £21.25, visit guardianbookshop.com