Rhubarb is actually a vegetable, but we tend to think of it as a fruit. It’s the first non-fruit fruit of the year and as soon as it appears I start using it in the kitchen. This trifle is one of the best I’ve made. I love the lemon custard and the way it works with the sharp rhubarb. The recipe makes enough for the following day too, and who doesn’t like trifle for breakfast?
Serves 6-8
For the sponge
butter 125g, softened
unrefined caster sugar 125g
free-range eggs 2
self-raising flour 125g
poppy seeds 2 tsp
For the rhubarb
rhubarb 750g, trimmed and rinsed
water 125ml
lemon juice and zest of 1
unrefined caster sugar 100g
For the lemon custard
whole milk 300ml
unwaxed lemons juice and zest of 2
unrefined caster sugar 125g
cornflour 1 tbsp
free-range egg yolks 6
double cream 400ml
To finish
double cream 400ml
unrefined caster sugar 25g
flaked toasted almonds 2 tbsp
poppy seeds a scattering
Heat the oven to 160C fan/gas mark 4. Line a medium-sized baking tray with baking parchment. To make the sponge, cream the butter and sugar together in a mixing bowl until pale. Beat in the eggs, then sift over the flour and sprinkle in the poppy seeds. Fold the sponge mixture together carefully, then spoon it on to the prepared baking sheet and level it off – it shouldn’t be deeper than 2-3cm. Bake in the oven for about 15-20 minutes or until the sponge is golden and cooked through.
To cook the rhubarb, slice the stems into 3-4cm pieces and tumble them with the water, lemon zest and juice, and sugar, and turn out on to a baking tray. Arrange the rhubarb in a single layer if you can, and pop into the oven to bake for 25 minutes or until the stems are tender but are still holding their shape. Set the rhubarb aside to cool.
To make the lemon custard, pour the milk into a heavy-based saucepan with the lemon zest and set over a medium heat. Bring this mixture to simmer.
Combine the sugar, cornflour and egg yolks in a bowl and whisk until well combined. Pour over the hot milk, whisking as you do.
Return this mixture to a clean pan. Gently cook the custard until it starts to thicken up. Make sure you keep stirring to avoid overcooking it. Take off the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Pass the custard through a sieve then allow it to cool. Whip the cold cream until it forms soft peaks then fold or whisk the cream into the cooled custard.
Assembling the trifle is easy. Slice the sponge cake into squares or fingers and arrange these over the base of large serving bowl, preferably a glass one, or individual ones. Arrange the cooled roast rhubarb over the sponge and spoon over all the pink roasting juices.
Pour the chilled lemon custard over the rhubarb then place the trifle back in the fridge to chill for an hour or so. To finish, whip the cream and the 25g of sugar to smooth soft peaks with a whisk. Don’t overwork it or it will go grainy. Spoon the soft cream over the custard. Return the trifle to the fridge until you’re ready to serve it.
Sprinkle over the toasted almonds and a few more poppy seeds before bringing to the table.
Gill Meller is a chef and food writer
