Lovage leaves are one of my favourite herbs of the summer. Think freshly cut grass with an intense herbal flavour that is often described as similar to the centre leaves of celery or a more complex parsley. Both flat-leaf parsley and celery tops work well as an alternative.
Serves six
clams 1kg, net weight, palourde or manila
extra virgin olive oil 4 tbsp, plus more for serving
banana shallots 2, peeled and sliced horizontally thinly
salt ½ tsp
garlic 1 clove, peeled and grated
dried chilli flakes ¼ tsp
linguine 400g
riesling wine 250ml
creme fraiche 75g
lovage 1 bunch, or flat leaf parsley, picked and roughly chopped
lemon juice to taste
salt to taste
Start by preparing the clams. There are many ways to do this but I find the best is to simply remove any broken, chipped, open or sluggish clams. Then place them under cold running water and, using your hands, knock them about like they would be on rough shores for at least 5 minutes. Keep removing the water until no grit is visible. Alternatively soak them in heavily salted water for 20 minutes. Store them covered with a damp cloth on the surface in the fridge.
Place a large pot of salted water on a high heat and bring to the boil.
Heat the olive oil in a large, deep pot with a lid over a low heat. Add the shallots, salt and cook them for 10 minutes until soft and translucent. Stir through the garlic and chilli, and cook it for a further 3 minutes.
Add the linguine to the boiling water and cook for about 7-8 minutes according to the packet instructions until al dente.
Turn up the heat and lower the clams into the pan with the shallots and add the wine. Cover and cook them for 2-3 minutes, until the clams have popped open. Remove from the heat and discard any clams that are still closed. Stir through the creme fraiche and bring the sauce back to the boil for a couple of minutes. Drain the linguine, reserving a ladleful of pasta water, and combine both with the clams, turning gently to mix them through. Stir in the chopped lovage or herbs and pour over a little extra virgin olive oil. Taste, season with lemon and salt and serve immediately.
Florence Knight is head chef at Sessions Arts Club, London EC1
