Interview by Max Olesker 

Meliz Berg’s secret ingredient: dried mint

This distinctive but often overlooked dried herb is brilliant in meatballs, and balances salty cheese or sweet dried fruit
  
  

Dried mint: ‘just a teaspoon can immediately change a dish.’
Dried mint: ‘just a teaspoon can immediately change a dish.’ Photograph: Burcu Atalay Tankut/Getty Images

It’s my favourite dried herb. Dried mint, I think, is one of those ingredients, especially in Cypriot cuisine, that has such a distinctive flavour profile, just a teaspoon can immediately change a dish. We use it a lot in cakes and pastries such as pilavuna. This is a Cypriot pastry filled with cheese, but the dried mint offsets that saltiness.

It pairs incredibly well with hellim [halloumi], another quintessential Cypriot ingredient. So if we’re making any kind of pasta dish, there’s no parmesan – instead we use finely grated hellim with dried mint.

It’s something I’ve grown up with. It goes really well with dried fruit, so you might have a salty hellim muffin, but there’ll be sultanas in it and some dried mint – it brings a sweetness.

If you’re making something like a ragu or a casserole, or meatballs like kofte, and you’re using spices such as cumin, dried mint is great to offset that earthiness – with a bit of ground cinnamon as well. I can’t imagine not having it in my store cupboard.

Meliz Berg’s latest book is Dinner Tonight (Ebury, £22)

 

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