Prawn rolls
I can't get enough of these hot, spicy little patties, which I like to stuff between soft bread rolls or, better still, into crisp curls of iceberg lettuce. They need a sprig or two of coriander and mint and some of the hot dipping sauce, too. Don't be put off by the long ingredient list, this recipe couldn't be easier.
serves 4
prawns, defrosted – 250g
garlic – 2 cloves,
peeledspring onions – 4, chopped
lemon grass or lime leaves – 2 stalks, outer leaves removed and shredded, or 4 leaves, rolled and shredded
coriander leaves – a fistful
small hot red chillies – 2 small, seeded
flour – 1 heaped tbs
groundnut oil for frying
for the sauce:
rice vinegar – 6 tbs
sugar – 4 tbs
dark soy sauce – 1 tbs
small, hot red chillies – 2, seeded and very finely chopped
coriander leaves – 1 tbs, very finely chopped
juice of a lime
to serve:
iceberg lettuce leaves – 8 large ones
mint leaves
coriander
To make the sauce, heat the sugar and vinegar in a small saucepan until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is becoming syrupy. Stir in the soy sauce and leave to cool. Add the chillies, the coriander leaves and the lime juice. Then leave to cool and thicken.
Put the prawns, garlic, spring onion, shredded lemon grass or lime leaves, coriander leaves and chillies, flour and a little salt into the bowl of a food processor and blitz to a rough paste. Set aside for half an hour in the fridge for the flavours to marry.
Press spoonfuls of the prawn paste into small patties or flat cakes. You should get about eight from the mixture.
Heat enough groundnut oil in a shallow pan to cover the bottom then lay the prawn patties in, letting them colour before gently turning with a palette knife. When they are crisp and golden on the outside, yet still moist in the middle, lift the patties out and lay them into the lettuce leaves, spooning over some of the sauce and scattering mint and coriander leaves over the top.
Warm soused mackerel
Piquancy is something I value in a fish recipe, especially when that fish is one of the oily varieties such as tuna, herring or, my favourite, mackerel. It may sound a little strange, but I recommend some mashed potatoes or sauteed potatoes with this, too. Especially the latter.
serves 4
mackerel – 3, filleted
tarragon vinegar – 150ml
white vermouth or white wine – 50ml
juniper berries – 12
mustard seeds – half tsp
white peppercorns – 6
black peppercorns – 9
caster sugar – 2 tbs
bay leaves – 2
salt
to serve:
lemon
sauteed potatoes or mash
Set the oven at 180c/gas 4. Rinse the mackerel and lay them in a shallow, oven-proof dish of china, glass or stainless steel (not aluminium). Pour the vinegar and vermouth or wine into a non-corrosive saucepan then add the juniper berries, lightly crushed, the mustard seed and white and black peppercorns, the sugar, a good pinch of salt and bay leaves. Bring to the boil then pour over the fish. Add enough water to just cover the fish – no more.
Cover the dish lightly with tin foil and bake for 20 minutes. Serve the fish warm, two fillets each, with sauteed potatoes or mash.
Grilled monkfish with lemon thyme
You don't have to use monkfish here; any thick cut of white fish will work or you could even try scallops. Monkfish is ideal as it doesn't fall apart on the grill. The only thing I would eat with this is a very simple rice pilaf and rocket salad.
serves 4
monkfish – about 1kg
lemon thyme – 2 tbs
sea salt – ½ tsp
black pepper – coarsely ground
olive oil – about 3 tbs
to serve:
lemon
sauteed or mashed potatoes
Put the lemon thyme leaves in a pestle and mortar and crush with the salt and a good grinding of black pepper. Mix in enough olive oil to end up with a thick slush – 2 or 3 tablespoons – then pour it all into a mixing bowl.
Cut the fish into large chunks and toss it into the thyme and olive oil. Place the fish on the grill or a ridged grill pan and cook for three or four minutes then turn and cook the other side. Test the fish for doneness, it may need a bit longer depending on the thickness. Serve with lemon and potatoes of your choice.
Grilled prawns with lime chutney
One of most effective marinades I have ever made involves nothing more complicated than stirring chutney into yoghurt. The crucial point is that you need to use a very good quality, chunky chutney. If that chutney is home- or artisan-made then even better. Lime pickle works exceptionally well, too, as do the better quality onion and tomato chutneys; the sort you pick up from the deli.
serves 2
raw prawns – 12 large ones
lime or onion chutney – 3 tbs
natural yoghurt – 2 tbs
Shell the prawns. Cut along their backs and pull out and discard the grey 'vein' that runs inside. Rinse and pat them dry. Put the chutney into a bowl and beat in the yoghurt. Toss the prawns with the yoghurt and set aside for a good half hour.
Get the grill or ridged grill pan hot, place the prawns on the bars and grill for two minutes on either side till golden. Serve with a salad of baby leaves, coriander and mint.
Mussel soup
This is a clean-tasting broth, hot and aromatic. If you wish to add fish sauce or even soy sauce then do, but I suspect the recipe will lose its clean, simple flavours. The coriander is essential.
serves 2
mussels in their shells – 1kg
light chicken or vegetable stock – 800ml
a small, hot, red chilli
the juice of 2 limes
sugar – a pinch
sea salt – a pinch
coriander leaves – a handful
Scrub the mussels thoroughly, tug out any of the fibrous 'beards' that may be hanging from their shells and discard any that are broken or open.
I always squeeze each mussel hard, pushing the shells together tightly to check they have some life in them. Any that refuse to close when squeezed or tapped on the side of the sink, or any that seem light for their size should be discarded.
Bring the stock to the boil. Cut the chillies in half, remove their seeds and chop the flesh very finely, then put it in with the stock, together with the lime juice, a pinch of salt and the same of sugar. Turn the stock down to a simmer.
Add the scrubbed mussels to the stock, cover tightly with a lid, then leave to steam for a minute or two till their shells are just open and the mussels are quivering and juicy. Any that are tightly closed should be discarded. Remove the mussels with a draining spoon and transfer to warm bowls. Strain the broth through a sieve into the bowls then chop the coriander leaves and stir them into the hot soup. Correct the seasoning with salt and more lime juice. Serve with spoons for the broth, and finger bowls for the mussels.
The wine list
Prawn rolls
2003 Sainsbury's German Riesling, Pfalz (£3.99, Sainsbury's)
A fruity, off-dry style from the southerly Pfalz region, this comparatively delicate wine has a pleasantly spicy undertone that would work brilliantly with this dish.
Warm soused mackerel
2003 Fiano di Avelino, Feudi di San Gregorio (£9.99, Waitrose)
The match is a little harder here, but why not try one of my favourite Italian whites, the scented, honeyed, richly flavoured Fiano? The secret is in the acidity that helps keep the wine ultra-fresh.
Mussel soup
2003 Muscadet de Sèvret et Maine, Domaine du Vieux Chai (£5.39, Oddbins)
A perfect seafood white from an unfairly overlooked corner of the Loire Valley, this is crisp and medium bodied with good, creamy weight and a slight spritz.
Grilled monkfish with lemon thyme
2003 Tabali Chardonnay, Limari Valley (£7.94, Asda)
This has to be a contender for the best Chardonnay in Chile title. Sourced from the cool climate Limari Valley, it's poised and finely crafted with nutty oak and citrus fruit flavours in delicious harmony.
Grilled prawns with lime chutney
2004 Annie's Lane Riesling, Clare Valley (from £7.49, Threshers, Oddbins)
The new vintage of this reliable Clare Valley white is the best I've had yet. This is a bold, lime-scented style with a touch of sweetness and a great flavour to burn.
Tim Atkin
