John Brunton 

Valentine’s in Verona

There's more to the city than Romeo and Juliet. John Brunton looks beyond 'that balcony' for more romantic ideas
  
  


For a romantic Valentine's Day voyage it is difficult to find a more seductive destination than the Italian city of Verona. Famous for inspiring William Shakespeare to write Romeo and Juliet, there is a lot more to discover here than that balcony. Here are 10 romantic ideas

1. Verona in love

Each year around 14 February, the city organises a series of romantic events entitled Verona in Love. Not surprisingly, you can't really escape Romeo and Juliet, with guided tours following in the footsteps of the star-crossed lovers and an award for the best love-letter sent to Juliet. But there are also restaurants offering candle-lit dinners, art exhibitions and poetry readings, plus a series of free early evening concerts ranging from classical recitals and chamber music, to local bands performing salsa, reggae and ragamuffin. It is worth noting that just after Valentine's Day, celebrations for the 2009 Carnival season begin, and although Verona can't compare with Venice, there is a big masked parade here on 20 February, followed by a sumptuous Regata Storica on the Adige river the next day.

2. Verona Arena

This ancient Roman amphitheatre dates back to AD 30, and dominates the centre of the city. Be warned that if you pose with the actors dressed up as gladiators at the entrance they'll expect to be paid, but once inside, the sheer size and grandeur of the arena is quite breathtaking, with far less crowds and queues than Rome's Colosseum. And you may well want to return here in summer during the famous Opera festival, for the unforgettable experience of watching a magical performance of Aida, The Barber of Seville or Tosca under a starlit sky.

3. Relais Il Sogno di Giulietta

This luxury boutique hotel has just opened up right inside the courtyard of the palace where lovers come to marvel at Juliet's mythical balcony. It has to be the ultimate place to splash out for someone looking to pop the question or celebrate an anniversary. Naturally, it is not cheap staying in what is billed as "the most romantic relais in the world", with prices on Valentine's Day itself starting at €350 (£318) and going up to a staggering €1,400 for a totally opulent suite. Fortunately, Verona has far more affordable accommodation for a romantic weekend, such as B&B Casa Coloniale, where a double will set you back €60.

4. Giardino Giusti

Keep one morning free to discover one of Italy's most romantic Renaissance gardens. Hidden away on the other side of the Adige river, the Giardino Giusti was designed in 1570 by Agostino Giusti, a knight of the Venetian Republic. Spreading over a series of terraces ending at a high belvedere with a panoramic vista, the garden features avenues planted with tall cypresses, fountains and mythological statues, a small maze, pergolas and grottoes.

5. Osteria tour

Tucked away in the narrow backstreets of Verona are a host of traditional osterie, perfect for a lazy lunch. A glass of wine costs less than €1, a delicious pasta dish will set you back around €5 and even a hearty main course such as polenta with wild mushrooms and melted cheese costs less than €10. Among those not to be missed are Osteria la Vecchia Fontanina (piazzetta Chiavica 5), Osteria al Carro Armato (vicolo Gatto 2) and Hostaria dell'Orso (via Sottoriva 3).

6. Shop till you drop

Lovers of Italian fashion are spoilt for choice here. Running from the Roman arena to the frescoed-palaces of Piazza delle Erbe, the main shopping drag is the pedestrian-only Via Mazzini. Apart from the likes of Gucci, Roberto Cavalli and the funky Fiorucci boutique, Love Only, you'll also find to-die-for shoes at Fratelli Rossetti, and several jewellery boutiques specialising in engagement rings. And for seductive vintage dresses and accessories, check out Cecile on via Salvatore Corte Reggia 9.

7. Wine tasting

The vineyards that cling to the rolling hills around Verona produce some of Italy's finest wines, from the well-known Valpolicella and Soave, to Recioto, a luscious dessert wine, or bubbly Prosecco and Franciacorta. The best enoteca to pass a leisurely afternoon of "degustazione" is the historic Bottega del Vino, which has a vast choice of wines by the glass, but beware of getting carried away as prices are not cheap.

8. Sunset strolls

The historic centre of Verona is beautifully preserved, and as the sun sets there are a number of romantic walks with spectacular views. Across the water from the town centre, follow a footpath down from the Teatro Romano through a grove of cypress trees that eventually comes out in front of Castel San Pietro, which has panoramic views over the city. Alternatively, follow the Lungadige Panvinio, an embankment walk that follows the Adige river from the Garibaldi Bridge right up to the medieval Castel Vecchio.

9. Romantic dinner

Verona has a host of gourmet restaurants to choose from, such as the Michelin-starred Il Desco or the funky decor and fusion cuisine of Al Cristo. But the most romantic address, and more reasonably-priced, is the 150-year-old Locanda Castelvecchio, just opposite the city's castle. Reserve a table in a cosy wood-panelled alcove, begin with a traditional Veneto "pasta e fagioli" soup, order a bottle of Amarone wine, then feast off the speciality roast meats served from a carvery trolley. Around €40 for a three-course meal, not including wine.

10. Party time

A romantic night out doesn't have to mean a quiet dinner, and Verona has a lively nightlife scene for those who want to party. Start the evening with a glass of sparkling Prosecco at Osteria Verona, a corner of the Piazza delle Erbe that has been reclaimed from touristy cafes as the hip rendezvous for the town's beautiful people. Move on to the cool Art&Chocolate Gallery Bar (largo Pescheria Vecchia 9), a designer lounge bar that doubles as an exhibition space and chocolatier. Finish the night at Studio 90 (vicolo del Giasto 90), a cocktail bar with a dance club downstairs.

Getting there

Inghams Short Breaks +44 (0)20 8780 7710) has three nights at the three-star Italia Hotel in Verona on a B&B basis from £410 per person including fights from London Gatwick, Southampton, Bristol, Exeter, Birmingham, Manchester, Newcastle or Glasgow. Regional flight supplements may apply.

• All photographs by John Brunton

 

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