The Old Bear, Cobham
A relatively unremarkable exterior belies the exalted cooking going on at this pub, thanks to the newly recruited chef, Nathan Green. Green's CV boasts such names as Tom Aikens and Arbutus, so it's no surprise to see that not only does he have a talented hand, his ability to match quality seasonal ingredients with an undercurrent of sweet and lively flavours is exceedingly well judged. Starters such as goat's cheese mousse with roast squash, pine nuts and plum compote, or the spiced pig's head with potato puree and crispy ears, offer a myriad of textures and imagination. Mains are just as appealing. Roast venison with beetroot puree, roasted hazelnuts and turnip gratin, or the pig's trotter stuffed with morels and served with potato puree and truffle, are flavoursome, made better with a top-notch side of root vegetables. The retro desserts are good, too.
High Street, Riverhill (Tel: 01932-862116) price per head £35
Humayun Hussain
A Nation Of Shopkeepers, Leeds
Like Liverpool's Korova or Manchester's Deaf Institute, Shopkeepers isn't so much a pub as a multifunctional cultural hub: a combined bar, canteen, gig/club venue and more, with an excellent courtyard space to boot. It's the sort of place that draws in several generations of urban hipster, from callow art-school kids – the "window of opportunity" (pictured) is a changing exhibition space – to the kind of 30-something blokes who, rather than wives and children, have very extensive record collections. As one sign warns, dryly: "You are never more than 6ft from a DJ with a beard." By day, lounge on battered sofas; muse on projections of video art; drink quality beers (four guest ales, and imports of a Flying Dog IPA calibre); and eat from a solid, snacky menu that includes elaborate homemade burgers and local favourite, I's Pies. Naturally, you're given an old seven-inch (Climie Fisher's Rise To The Occasion, say) to identify your order.
27-37 Cookridge Street (Tel: 0113-203 1831) price per head £10
Tony Naylor
The Lexington, London
Already having established itself as an excellent live music venue since opening at the start of the year, north London's Lexington now caters to hungry, cowboy-booted customers with an expanded menu. Following the southern American influence seen in the decor and music bookings, the food includes particularly tasty Hoppin' John (black-eyed bean and bacon stew with rice), kale, butternut squash and sweet potato gratin, and Kentucky sweet butter cake. And if those don't tempt you perhaps one of their 40-odd bourbons will.
96-98 Pentonville Road, N1 (Tel: 020-7837 5371) price per head £10
Teri Grenert
