1. The Chilli Pickle

For classic Indian street food, the Chilli Pickle is without equal in Brighton: lunches of crispy masala dosas, thalis that mix rich curries with fresh rice, and smaller dishes of masala potatoes, zingy salads and aubergine fritters. The dinner menu includes tandoori quail and shoulder of lamb rogan josht, all served up at the baby-blue painted tables with a friendly, no-nonsense atmosphere.
• Lunch dishes from £3.50/mains from £7.50; 42 Meeting House Lane, 01273 323824; thechillipicklebistro.co.uk

2. Bandstand Cafe

Ten minutes' stroll west from Brighton's heaving seafront lies Hove's genteel green and more tranquil seafront – made even more attractive by the reopening in July of the Grade II-listed bandstand, after a £950,000 refurbishment. Beneath the stage lies the Bandstand Cafe, with a patio that overlooks the sea and a menu of home-made pastries for breakfast or fresh oysters and salads for lunch. A programme of concerts and recitals in the bandstand itself means free music while you eat.
• Pastries from £1.50; Hove seafront

3. Planet India

Brighton's most famous vegetarian restaurant may be Terre a Terre, but if you don't have the budget for their prices, then Planet India is a great substitute: fantastic vegetarian food, big portions, all served up by the sometimes barefoot owner with an infectious mix of enthusiasm and eccentricity. It's a no-frills establishment but the food – crispy spiced poppadums, smoky cumin rice and curries with a real kick – is top-notch.
• Curries from £4.50, rice and starters from £2; 4-5 Richmond Parade, 01273 818149

4. Riddle and Finns

One of Brighton's glammest addresses, situated on the edge of the Lanes, Riddle and Finns is a classic champagne and oyster bar. The menu has an extensive "light bites" section, with everything from monkfish cheeks to Brighton scallops for under a tenner. Or drop in for a lazy weekend breakfast: strong coffee, eggs benedict and maybe a glass of champagne to kickstart the day with a buzz.
• Light bites from £5.75, breakfast dishes from £6.95; 12B Meeting House Lane, 01273 323008; riddleandfinns.co.uk

5. Basketmakers Arms

Saved from the tourist hordes by virtue of being tucked away just off North Laine, and by its unimposing exterior, the Basketmakers is a gem. Locals come for the killer burgers, fiery chilli and – slightly oddly – to leave notes in the huge collection of tobacco tins stacked up against the walls. In spite of its back-street location, it does get busy, but the food – and the whole off-the-wall experience – is worth the crush.
• Mains from £8; 12 Gloucester Road, 01273 689006; fullers.co.uk

6. Cafe Delice

In the heart of the bohemian North Laine area, Cafe Delice is the perfect spot for people-watching, and trying to decide whether to buy that batik top, wood-carving or vintage handbag. Illy coffees and pastries are on offer for breakfast; sandwiches stuffed with smoked salmon, crème fraiche and capers, or sweet chilli and goat's cheese, make great lunches; and if the weather is inclement, the upstairs room is a joy, with slouchy chesterfields, old wooden rocking chairs and chocolatey jazz on the stereo.
• Sandwiches from £2.95; 40 Kensington Gardens, 01273 622519

7. Moshi Moshi

Combining the conveyor belt concept, where you select from the dishes that slowly drift by, with more traditional restaurant dishes, the sushi in Moshi Moshi is some of Brighton's best, with Scottish salmon, Cornish fish and succulent tempura prawns. Best value are the Geta sushi sets, which offer a selection of sushi on a traditional wooden platter. They are ideal washed down with one of the fresh juice concoctions; the Ginza Morning (carrot, apple, celery, ginger and orange) is particularly delicious.
• Plates from £1.80, Geta sets from £7.50; Opticon, Bartholomew Square, 01273 719195; moshimoshi.co.uk

8. English's

A Brighton institution, English's has been serving up locally caught fish, scallops, crab and lobster for more than 150 years, housed in three fisherman's cottages dating back to medieval times. It's at the pricier end of the spectrum, but the fish is spectacular and the chance to sit out on the cobbles with half a dozen oysters is a classic Brighton experience. Inside, it's a world away from the town's hip, minimalist eateries: all red velvet and white linen, quietly spoken waiters and old-school charm.
• Oysters from £5.95 for six, fish and chips £9.95; 29-31 East Street, 01273 327980; englishs.co.uk

9. Barefoot Bar, Yellowave Beach

Ideal for families, the Barefoot Bar is part of the Yellowave complex, which has six beach-volleyball courts, a climbing wall and the chance to play "beachminton" and ultimate frisbee. If it's sunny, sit outside with a cold beer or three and a fresh salad or something from the barbecue, and watch the healthy sorts on the courts. If it's blustery and cool, there's plenty of space inside, where pine tables are dotted around to make full use of the beach views through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Open all year round, the bar also hosts quizzes and live music nights.
• Burgers from £3.50; 299 Madeira Drive, 01273 672222; yellowave.co.uk

• The Brighton & Hove Food and Drink Festival starts tomorrow and runs until September 27. For details of events, go to brightonfoodfestival.co.uk