The best things in life might well be free. But it's hard to begrudge the not unsubstantial prices being charged here.

Le Champignon Sauvage gives the lie to the notion that economics dictate the impossibility of a restaurant without rooms scaling the heights of culinary perfection.

Chef David Everitt-Matthias and his wife, Helen, have been doing precisely that since 1987 and have more than enough stars, rosettes and rave reviews to prove their point, but a refit last summer increased capacity and brightened the tone, and the award of Young Chef of the Year to 24-year-old second chef Marcus McGuinness adds to the strength of the LCS team.

Soaked in classical French technique, there is a freshness and vibrancy to David's cooking. Try Shetland scallops combined with baby squid and pumpkin purée with liquid (and striking visual impact) coming from squid ink sauce.

Likewise, a chunky piece of Forest of Dean lamb is slowly roasted with liquorice and crushed Jerusalem artichoke.

Price per head £27