Oliver Rowe 

The big breakfast test…

From kippers to croissants, top chef Oliver Rowe shops around for the best morning menu. Read about what constitutes the perfect breakfast with chefs sharing their favourite places to eat it on our blog
  
  


Smoked back bacon

Devon Rose, free-range dry cured, apple-smoked £3.55 per 250g, devonrose.com
A fantastic, chunky , nice thick piece of bacon. Solid and smoky and fatty. Crisps up perfectly. 5 stars

Denhay Farm, dry cured back, smoked 500g, £5.25.
Available at Harvey Nichols Sliced a little too thinly which makes it too crispy even for me - but it's delicious. 4 stars

Donald Russell 8 x 200g, £34, donaldrussell.com
This is a well-cut piece of bacon. The fat is a little rubbery and it's slightly too salty - but it's very tasty. 4 stars

Tesco, smoked dry cure back bacon 250g, £2.88.
This one has an overpowering barbecue flavour but the meat is still quite bland. Not cured enough. 2 stars

Pork sausages

Metfield £12 a kilo, metfieldbakery.com
This is huge. They're going for a real Toulouse taste. I like the herbs, but I'd prefer a little more fat. 4 stars

Simply Sausages 480g, £2.99, simplysausages.com
There's proper pork in here. Tastes wholesome and meaty, just a little flat. Not bad though. 3 stars

Duchy, organic and free-range 400g, £2.85, available nationwide.
A big tasty, herby hit with lots of fat. I like these but I suspect, and only suspect, these were made with dry herbs... 3 stars

Marks & Spencer, British chipolata 320g, £2.59.
I'm sorry but these are just dull. I like the tidy, biteable size but they just don't compete with the others. Shame. 1 stars

Eggs

Ginger Pig £1.40 per ½ dozen, 020 7935 7788.
Quite a good yolk on this one. It has good colour and there's clearly no dye in here. It's creamy and tasty, and fries well. 3 stars

Tesco, organic large £1.79 per ½ dozen.
Pretty average. The yolk's fine, pretty yellowy and perfectly tasty. An inoffensive egg. 2 stars

Sainsbury's, large free-range £1.19 per ½ dozen.
Standard egg fare again, I'm afraid. The yolk isn't as yellow and creamy but it's fine. 2 stars

Hoad's Farm, large £1.19 per ½ dozen, Sainsbury's.
There's not much to this one. It tastes bland, looks average and doesn't taste terribly fresh. Worst of the bunch. 1 stars

Tomato ketchup

Heinz 340g, 71p.
This is so simple and classic. It must be Heinz. It just goes with everything and balances whatever it's up against. Maybe it's a nostalgia thing but it's the best. 5 stars

Stokes 300g, £2.60, Harvey Nichols.
This is nice and tomatoey. I imagine it's largely made up of tomato puree but it's very tasty. A little too thick but it's tastes the most home-made. 4 stars

Co-Op 445g, 79p.
This is actually not too bad even though it looks a touch insipid. Much too sweet though, with too many herbs. 3 stars

Whole Earth, organic 340g, £1.80, Holland & Barrett.
Wow, that's odd. It tastes of cinnamon and spices. That's not like ketchup. Far too overpowering. 0 stars

Porridge

Rude Health, fruity date porridge 1kg, £4.95, rudehealthfoods.co.uk
This has quite a sexy taste. The fruit becomes incorporated into the oats which is nice, if a little distracting. Good variety of texture. 4 stars

Mornflake, organic oats 750g, £1.33, available nationwide
Well, this one smells like porridge, has the consistency of porridge and tastes of porridge. 3 stars

Jordans, organic oats 750g, £1.59, available nationwide.
What can I say? Decent texture and standard colour. It's...porridgey...as porridge should be. Very nice. 3 stars

Covent Garden, honey porridge 500g, £1.49, newcoventgardenfood.com
Well, considering how this looked before it went in the pan, it could be far worse. Smells wheaty but tastes fine. Added sweetness isn't bad. 2 stars

Orange Juice

Marks & Spencer 1l, £1.99.
This tastes fresh. Lemony, zesty, lovely texture. I like the 'bits' in this one - it tastes home-made and full of flavour. 4 stars

Juice Republic 250ml, 99p, Selfridges, 0800 123 400.
This has an individual taste - a nice long flavour, full, and freshly squeezed. A touch sharp for me but very good. 3 stars

Tropicana, original with juicy bits 1l, £1.69, available nationwide.
Thick, sweet, with a pleasant lemony undertone. But it tastes pasteurised and a little flat. 2 stars

Somerfield 1l, £2.12.
Thin, slightly sharp and...weedy. There's sugar and acid and nothing in between. Pretty crap to be honest. 1 stars

Smoked kippers

Orkney Rose £2.50 each, orkneyrose.com
Wonderful, wonderful texture. These taste natural and smoky and the flesh flakes away very easily. Great texture and absolutely delicious. 5 stars

Bleiker's £6 for 2, bleikers.co.uk
Exemplary texture. Full on smoky taste, quite salty, but tender. Flakes wonderfully. Might be a little strong for some but I love it. 5 stars

Tesco finest £7.99 a kilo.
Fresh tasting and tender. Only very lightly smoked though. The colour suggests it has been dyed. 3 stars

Young's £1.29 per 200g pack.
An entirely different product. But tasted on its own, it's not bad. This is comfort food. It's moist, tender but very yellow. 2 stars

Black pudding

Ginger Pig £11.50 a kilo, Ginger Pig.
One of the nicest black puddings I have ever had. This is the real deal. Not too mealy and I'm loving the addition of the leeks. This is it. 5 stars

Macsween £5.50 per kilo, Selfridges, 0800 123 400.
This one looks good. But it would be intimidating to a 'first-timer'. It feels very dense but it's perfectly inoffensive. 3 stars

Donald Russell £24 (as part of a pack).
This is a tasty, crunchy black pudding. It's a little thick and hard to swallow, which is offputting, but it has a rich, bloody taste. 3 stars

Waitrose £1.09 per 250g.
This one is trying very hard to look like an artisan black pud, but failing. It's oddly curly and rammed full of little specks of fat. Squidgy and lacking in bite. 1 stars

Muesli

Outsider Tart 200g, £3.50.
Very sweet and very moreish. I like the addition of the nuts and I think I can taste maple syrup. In moderation, I'd have this for breakfast. 4 stars

Tesco, finest fruit and berries 500g, £2.99.
This looks like rabbit food. But, after a good soaking, it actually tastes quite nice. It's just trying a bit too hard. 3 stars

Sharpham Park, organic spelt 375g, £5.50.
I see the appeal of the spelt, but to me they look and taste like sugar puffs, and completely dominate the taste. 2 stars

Dorset Cereals, fig and grapes 415g, £2.99.
The fruity bits are nice but the flakes have absolutely no taste whatsoever. Dry and chewy... 0 stars

Unsalted butter

Lescure 125g, £1.30, Selfridges.
A nice, mild texture, with a long-lasting and slow developing taste. It's a lovely, warm colour and has the creamiest texture. 4 stars

Rachel's 250g, £1.45, rachelsorganics.co.uk
This one's pleasingly sweet and has a good colour. It tastes rich and fresh. But it's rather fatty and leaves a greasy coating in your mouth. 4 stars

President 250g, 99p.
Quite creamy, quite light and mild. It dissipates quickly in the mouth, which is a good thing. It's unintrusive and tastes really quite lovely. 4 stars

Somerfield, 250g, 82p.
Strongest smelling butter of the lot. Not sure if that's a good thing. Powerful taste, if a little short on the palate. Too manufactured. 3 stars

Croissant

Paul £1.10 each, 020 7391 1901.
Light and nicely elastic when it pulls apart. Good, chewy layers which give way to a pleasing buttery chewiness. You can really taste the butter here. 4 stars

Marks & Spencer 59p each.
This one feels good. It's quite spongy but a little dark in colour. The sponginess I like, but it's a touch too risen. Not bad though. 3 stars

Pret a Manger 90p each, available nationwide.
Good bounciness and nice colour. It's lovely to bite into but it doesn't taste of a whole lot. 3 stars

Daylesford, organic £1.20, Selfridges.
The lightest one of the bunch, which worries me slightly. Nice colour but too chewy. The outside isn't as crisp as I like but the flavour is nice. 2 stars

Strawberry jam

Bonne Maman 370g, £1.75.
This tastes of strawberries. It's full of flavour and sweeter than the others but rich and tasty. If only the fruit wasn't so broken down. 4 stars

Marks and Spencer, Elsanta 340g, £2.19.
Pretty nice. tastes like strawberries and looks home-made. You can even see the seeds. A touch flat but good. 3 stars

Rose Farm 340g, £2.50, Devon Rose.
While this looks lovely and tastes very rich and fruity, it tastes fairly generic. I can't pinpoint the strawberry in this. 2 stars

Duchy, organic 340g, £2.45.
Sweet and seedy. It doesn't taste spectacular but it's a good solid texture and smells lovely. Not bad at all. 2 stars

Marmalade

Daylesford, organic Seville £4.95, 227g, daylesfordorganic.com
Dark, musty and rich. There's an unusual setting agent in here and the texture is peculiar but it has great depth of flavour. 4 stars

Selfridges £3.99, 340g.
Milder and glossy-looking. Not too set, nice and light. It has the best texture of the lot. And tastes very orangey! 4 stars

Sainsbury's organic fine cut 340g, 89p.
Fairly mild, not bitter. Nice, crunchy fruit, but the gelatin is too set for me and the result is a rather grainy marmalade. 2 stars

Co-Op, truly irresistable Seville orange 340g, £1.05.
Nice soft fruit with quite a round flavour. Just a bit lemony for an orange marmalade, and too set which ruins the texture. 2 stars

Honey

Waitrose, English blossom 340g, £2.99.
Potent and soothing, I can taste the flowers. I think there's jasmine and clover in here. It's incredibly floral. Quite a delicious honey. 4 stars

Sainsbury's Spanish lavender 340g, £2.49.
Strongest smelling honey. It has an intense, rapeseed flavour. I can taste lavender, but it's almost too full-on. 3 stars

Harrods, pure Irish wildflower 375g, £5.95.
Not as sweet. Honey should be sweet. It's mild and soothing but I can't really pick up on any flowers. It could do with intensity and more punch. 2 stars

Rowse, fairtrade Mexican wildflower 340g, £2.19, Sainsbury.
A runnier version of set honey which is a little disconcerting. It tastes of beeswax. Too dry and actually, too sweet. 2 stars

Greek yoghurt

Co-op, with honey 140g, 55p.
The honey concerns me. But, oddly, it's not a bad addition. The yoghurt is creamy and tastes 'Greek', and it has by far the best texture. 4 stars

Asda, Greek-style 500g, £1.04.
Is this billed as Greek? I'd expect more texture. It's too set - more French that Greek. But tasty nonetheless. 3 stars

Rachel's 450g, £1.79, rachelsorganic.co.uk
Nice, proper sourness, light and quite creamy - just not creamy enough. Greek yoghurt should be richer than this. 2 stars

Total 500g, £1.47 available nationwide.
Tastes like crème fraîche? There's hardly any flavour and it tastes very bland. Not much of a yoghurty yoghurt. Disappointing. 1 stars

Read Oliver Rowe on what constitutes the perfect breakfast and chefs sharing their favourite places to eat it on our blog

 

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