Telephone: 0207 387 2789
Address: 245 Eversholt St, London NW1
Website: www.elparadorlondon.com
Eversholt Street in London looks like it needs a good wash - its pavement and buildings covered in a fine layer of soot - and on a summer evening that feels like it's been kidnapped and replaced by a winter one, it could not feel less like Spain. Thus I had high hopes of being instantly transported into a more Mediterranean reality when I arrived at El Parador, a family-run tapas restaurant in Mornington Crescent that's been around for 17 years.
Alas, there was nothing strikingly Spanish about El Parador's simple interior, apart from the warm ochre tone of the walls, but there was something Spanish about the atmosphere, with its backing track of eager conversation. This is a restaurant that puts people at ease, it seems, which may be the key to its popularity: by 8.30pm the room was full, and by the time I left at 10pm there were still people turning up.
The menu is divided into fish, meat and a good range of vegetarian dishes, and our waiter, Simon, advised that five shared between two would be sufficient, which it certainly was. Considering it's tapas, the servings are generous, and, of course, one of the joys of eating this way is that you can mix and match your orders. There was also a wide range of Spanish and Chilean wines to choose from, ranging in price from £13.70 to £31. We ordered a fruity chardonnay, which went well with our mixture of fish, chicken and vegetables.
The arroz con champinones (rice with mushrooms) had a similar consistency to risotto, with the strong, distinctive flavours of chestnut mushrooms, spinach and leeks making it a tasty accompaniment to the other dishes, as well as the bread. The pollo con curcuma (pan-fried chicken with caramelised leeks and oregano) was another strong-flavoured dish, salty with a hint of sweetness. And the bacalao fresco al horno (baked fillet of cod) was light, presented simply with a portion of lemon and a coriander, tarragon, caper and butter sauce, providing a nice counterbalance to the other dishes.
In comparison, the hinojo del parador (roasted fennel with roasted tomatoes, sage butter and chickpeas) was a little bland - with the distinctive flavour of fennel apparently gone awol - and while the saffron potatoes, cherry tomatoes and peas worked well with my monkfish (rape con patatas), I can vouch, from a previous visit, that there are more mouth-watering items on the menu. Try the gambas del parador (tiger prawns with garlic, paprika, white wine, olive oil and bay leaves), the albondigas (herby meatballs in a rich tomato and basil sauce) or the batatas con romero y tomates (roasted sweet potato with rosemary, roasted tomatoes and coriander). And be sure to ask for a seat in their lovely garden terrace if the weather's warm.
As for the dessert menu, it's in the same vein as the tapas: simple recipes with simple flavours, which didn't fail to impress my sweet tooth. Indulge yourself with the marquesa de chocolate (a homemade mousse made with orange liqueur, served with a generous layer of of fresh cream) if you're a chocolate lover, or, for a traditional Spanish pudding, try El Parador's arroz con leche laced with nutmeg, which is almost a meal in itself.
All in all, for five dishes, two glasses of wine, one dessert and a coffee, our bill came to £42, between two (excluding service), which seems a fair price to pay for a couple of hours in Spain. From the interior to the service to the presentation of the food, there's nothing fussy about El Parador, so it's all the more worthy of having a fuss made over it.
