Tom Norrington-Davis 

The great tinned food test

Tom Norrington-Davis finds out what ingredients we should keep in our cupboards for handy fast food.
  
  


Tinned tomatoes

Puma conserve, 550g, £2.80, www.natoora.co.uk

Wow! These are really good - a dense texture and the right sweetness.

5 stars

Marks & Spencer organic peeled plum, 400g, 49p, 0845 3021234

Strong tomato taste and the juice is good and tomatoey, too.

4 stars

Waitrose organic whole plum , 400g, 60p, 0800 188884

The juice is sweet but the tomatoes don't taste of much.

2 stars

Biona organic cherry, 400g, 89p, www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

Tastes pulpy and the skins are too tough.

No stars

Asda chopped with herbs, 400g, 45p, 0500 100055

Smells like a cheap pizza. It would be insane to cook with these, it would ruin everything.

No stars

Beans

Suma organic butter, 400g, 91p www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

The perfect tinned bean! Creamy and slightly sweet.

5 stars

Asda borlotti , 290g, 27p

Tasty and good stock, however the texture of the beans is crumbly and mealy rather than creamy.

4 stars

Fagioli cannellini organic, 360g, £1.40, www.natoora.co.uk

Creamy, but too salty. Would be perfect otherwise.

3 stars

Essential organic mixed, 400g, 94p, 0117 9583550 Lacks flavour and the kidney beans ruin the appearance.

1 star

Waitrose flageolet, 400g, 49p

Far too gluey. You would have to wash all flavour out of them to be able to use them.

No stars

Chick peas

Essential organic, 410g, 85p

These are lovely. Nice, soft, sweet and very pea-ish. Would be great for hummus.

5 stars

Waitrose organic, 410g, 82p They've got a lovely nutty and natural flavour. Taste homecooked.

5 stars

Co-op, 400g, 50p, 0800 0686727

Look more like processed peas than chick peas. Not much taste.

2 stars

Sainsbury's, 410g, 42p, 0800 636262

Absolutely tasteless, but nice texture. Look good.

2 stars

Suma organic, 400g, 91p, www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

Devoid of any flavour at all. Really bizarre. They're quite big and look a bit damaged and over-cooked.

1 star

Anchovy fillets

Fortnum & Mason, 90g, £6.25, 020 7734 8040

Really meaty, with well-balanced flavours. I suspect they are Cantabrian.

5 stars

Sainsbury's, 50g, 79p

A beautiful anchovy. Sweet as well as salty. The oil lets it down and makes the fish bitter.

3 stars

Fish 4 ever, 95g, £2.00, www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

A bit too hairy and salty, but it's fat and nicely filleted. Tastes quite like the Sainsbury's one.

3 stars

Asda extra special Cantabrian, 100g, £1.88

Too salty for me and too hairy. Not too bad, but not great.

3 stars

M&S, 100g, £2.49

The oil smells old and destroys the flavour of the anchovies. They look like they've been machine-filleted.

1 star

Olives

Organico black, 250g, £2.75, www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

I love these! They've got a fruity and meaty texture and the marinade is great.

5 stars

Tesco finest Kalamata in brine, 290g, £1.98

Juicy, fleshy and not too salty - the perfect cooking olive.

5 stars

Waitrose Greek mixed, 449g, £4.49

The Kalamatas are nice and meaty, they look great, but the green olives are too salty.

3 stars

Fortnum & Mason mixed, 1kg, £12.95

Beautiful colour and they smell lovely, but they actually taste a bit soapy.

2 stars

Asda pitted black in brine, 310g, 88p

Why can you still buy olives like this? They are an unspeakable crime against olives.

No stars

Sardines/ pilchards

Fortnum & Mason Cornish pilchards, 100g, £1.60

They've been done in French style. Fantastic, well-balanced flavours.

5 stars

Sainsbury's sardines in olive oil, 120g, 59p

They've got loads of flavours. Fishy, but in a good way. They look messy, but are delicious.

4 stars

Co-op sardines in sunflower oil, 120g, 37p

The sardine itself tastes really nice, but the tin is full of scales. The oil is good.

2 stars

M&S Portuguese sardines, 120g, 69p

They've not been skinned and are a bit over-cooked. Nice strong gamey flavour, though.

2 stars

Fish 4 ever sardines in olive oil, 120g, £2.25, www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

Nice and fresh-tasting but a bit bland and too many bones.

2 stars

Dried pasta

La terra e il cielo organic kamut spaghetti, 500g, £2.32, 0117 9583550

Slightly unorthodox, but really lovely. Could eat it just with olive oil and garlic.

5 stars

Rustichella, 325g, £3.25, available: Fortnum & Mason

Very good with a great savoury flavour. Great for a minestrone.

3 stars

Asda extra special conchiglioni, 500g, £1.38

Good dried pasta with the right biscuity durum flavour.

3 stars

M&S papardelle, 500g, £1.29

Tastes nice, but weirdly cut. I try to buy egg pasta fresh.

2 stars

Waitrose egg gorganelli, 500g, £1.89

Again, it's nice, but I prefer dried pasta to be made without egg.

2 stars

Dried mushrooms

Fortnum & Mason porcini/cep, 80g, £13.95

They're wonderful. Slightly sweet with a taste of fresh porcini.

5 stars

Pagnan porcini, 25g, £1.27 www.natoora.co.uk

Classic dried porcini. Really good with a woody, slightly smoky flavour.

4 stars

Tesco ingredients porcini, 40g, £2.99

The stock has an amazing colour. Seriously chunky bits of mushroom. Very dark and smoky. They're great.

4 stars

Chalice dried wild porcini, 15g, £2.39, www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

Not very exciting. Too much stalk and not enough head.

1 star

L'Aquila fungi foray porcini, 40g, £3.65, 020 8965 0666

I'm not getting any mushroom flavour at all. It's smoky, but not mushroomy.

No stars

Dried noodles

Waitrose fine egg, 250g, 69p

Mmm, taste like Chinese noodles should. Great bouncy texture. Could eat them quite plain. Very nice.

4 stars

Fortnum & Mason Lungkow vermicelli, 100g, £1.05

Would be good in Vietnamese salad.

3 stars

Asda egg, 250g, 54p

Doesn't really taste of egg noodles, but a nice flavour anyway. Good texture.

3 stars

Blue Dragon wholewheat, 250g, 85p, www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

More like wholewheat spaghetti.

2 stars

Sharwood fine egg, 375g, £1.15, widely available

Turns into a mush in your mouth, even when it's not over-cooked. Awful texture.

No stars

Soy Sauce

Essential organic shoyo, 250ml, £2.45

Smells fermented, which I like. It has malty and woody flavours. It's definitely a shoyo. Fantastic!

5 stars

Tesco light, 150ml, £1.19

I like this one. It's nice and light with a touch of sweetness to it.

4 stars

Pearl River Bridge dark 660ml, £2.95, available:F&M

Good as a condiment but not strong enough for cooking.

3 stars

M&S dark, 150ml, £1.19

Tastes yeasty, like Marmite. There's nothing wrong with it, would be good for making stock, I just wouldn't put it on my grub.

2 stars

Clearspring organic shoyu, 150ml, £1.65, www.goodnessdirect.co.uk

One-dimensional. Not unpleasant, but it won't enhance your food.

2 stars

 

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