Under £10
Philippe Michel Crémant du Jura Sparkling Chardonnay, Jura, France (£6.99, Aldi)
Made in the same way as champagne – it gets its fizz from the second fermentation in bottle, and uses one of the champagne grapes, chardonnay – this is a really great value fizz from the Jura. Citrus fresh and with a touch of toasty richness, I'd choose it over many basic champagnes.
SanLeo Prosecco Brut, Italy NV (£7.99, Waitrose)
My current favourite of the high street proseccos, this scores highly for its sheer joie de vivre. It's frothy and fun, but with really harmonious acidity, great appley fruit, and a beguiling softness of texture. Great as an aperitif on its own or as the base of a bellini (with peach juice) or buck's fizz (orange juice).
Tesco Finest Blanquette de Limoux 1531, Languedoc, France 2008 (£9.99, Tesco)
Limoux, a relatively cool part of the generally rather warm Languedoc region of southern France, has a long tradition of making sparkling wines, and at their best they are worthy alternatives to champagne. With its mouth-tingling acidity and flavours of Cox's apple, this is an extremely refreshing fizz.
Innocent Bystander Pink Moscato, Victoria, Australia 2011 (£6.50, slurp.co.uk; £6.48, excelwines.co.uk; £6.99, Liberty Wines)
STAR BUY Few wines bring more immediate pleasure than this sweet, gently sparkling, Italian-inspired rosé. Low in alcohol at around 5% abv, it's a crisp, light and fresh fruit salad of pink grapefruit and muscat grapes. I'll have a glass at hand as I open my presents this Christmas.
£10-£20
Freixenet Elyssia Pinot Noir Rosado Cava, Penedes, Spain NV (£14.99, Waitrose)
A wine that proves cava is capable of being more than the budget option (although this is still pretty good value in the fizz context), this is largely made à la champagne with pinot noir plus a bit of the local trepat grape variety. Like a summer pudding, it's generously fruit-filled and just the right side of tart.
Sainsbury's Taste the Difference English Sparkling Brut, Surrey, England 2007 (£19.99, Sainsbury's)
English wine's march into the mainstream continues with this addition to the Sainsbury's own-label range. A very creditable addition it is, too: produced by Denbies near Woking, it's full of crisp red apples, and that typically tart love-it-or-hate-it English acidity, plus a delicate mousse and whistle-clean finish.
Champagnes over £20
Waitrose Brut Special Reserve Vintage Champagne, France 2004 (£29.99, Waitrose)
Waitrose's long-standing relationship with Champagne P&C Heidsieck generally gives it the edge when it comes to own-label champagne, and this latest vintage, while not quite as good as the 2002, is no exception. Made by Heidsieck's chef de cave Régis Camus, this is rich and complex with a suave and elegant finish.
Louis Roederer Brut Premier, Champagne, France NV (from £25.95, Waitrose; Majestic; Lea & Sandeman; Uncorked; The Wine Society; slurp.co.uk )
If I were the sort of person who could afford to have a house champagne, then Roederer's "basic" offering is the one I'd choose. It's a brilliantly consistent, full-throated combination of thrillingly precise acidity with flavours of citrus, toast and patisserie. A reliably fine aperitif.
Jacquesson Cuvée No. 734, Champagne, France NV (£32.95, winedirect.co.uk; £34.45, Berry Bros & Rudd; £35, Hailsham Cellars; £42, Bottle Apostle)
The smaller house of Jacquesson makes a range of champagnes that are characterised by their stunning purity. This wine, which is based on the 2006 vintage with a little older wine blended in, is a great introduction to the Jacquesson style – clean, dry, teasingly rich and extremely refined.
Domaine Cédric Bouchard Val Vilaine Inflorescence Brut, Champagne, France NV (£36.80, Berry Brothers & Rudd; £34.20, vinetrail.co.uk)
Most grape growers in Champagne sell their grapes to the famous houses or co-operatives, but over the past couple of decades an increasing number are making wines themselves. The cultish Cédric Bouchard is one of the best, as this very dry, perfectly balanced, exhilarating and food-friendly wine shows.
