I'm continually searching for my Garden of Eden, but, when it comes to food, I need look no further than my favourite area of Dublin, Temple Bar. I've been going to Eden for years. It has a fantastic atmosphere, serves brilliant contemporary Irish food, and is in a very funky and hip part of town. The restaurant occupies one side of Meeting House Square, which has a large stage at one end where they put on plays and show movies; so you can sit on Eden's terrace and watch whatever's showing while you eat.

When I'm meeting up with my family (I have a house in London and a flat in Dublin) we try to keep out of the pubs and, instead, arrange to go for dinner. Eden suits us very well. I have a vivid memory of sitting there with my family watching Moulin Rouge - it was just superbly beautiful. There is also a farmers' market in the square and I especially love it at Christmas when you can get your mince pies and mulled wine and just wander around. It's a magical place.

I feel a particular attachment to this area because I started my career being a commis chef in Temple Bar. When I left school it was a toss up between being a chef and a gardener. They are both creative and practical jobs, and I loved the way you can share the end product with people. I enjoyed my time as a chef because I loved the buzz of the restaurant, however, I only stuck it out for six weeks before I finally decided that my heart was in gardening.

Now I've been gardening for more than 20 years and I've never regretted giving up cooking professionally. I'm actually not even big on cooking at home any more, but I sometimes still have faint aspirations in that department since, a couple of years ago, I did a cookery course at Ballymaloe in East Cork with Darina Allen, Ireland's most famous celebrity chef. It was a fantastic experience but, to be honest, I haven't boiled an egg since going there.

Now my interest in food is mainly focused on where it comes from, not how to prepare it. Being a gardener, I am particularly aware of traceability of ingredients. Irish cooking is all about sourcing food locally, which generally means that what's available isn't tasteless since it hasn't been flown in from all around the world. I've found that people are beginning to be very aware of the value of having vegetable patches in their gardens. It's all about nurturing, and there is nothing more rewarding and delicious than eating a vegetable that you have grown and cared for yourself.

Eden may not be the cheapest of places, but one of the main reasons I come to here is because I know what they put in front of me will have been sourced locally. The menu changes four times a year. It's a traditional way of eating. They do great seafood here and vegetarian dishes, but I'm really big on chicken and Italian food.

In fact, my whole family is mad about Italy. We're all fans of simple, good fresh food, which Italians do wonderfully and so do the Irish. We don't mess with our food much; we let the ingredients speak for themselves. A dish I love to see is bowl of roasted veg - it's hearty, healthy and of the soil. And, of course, being an Irishman I couldn't do without potatoes. I particularly like visiting Kinsale in Cork, which has become the gourmet capital of Ireland. It's the only place in the country where the restaurants outnumber the pubs.

Eden
Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 00 353 (0)167 03330

History

Eden opened in 1997 at the heart of this fashionable area of town and aims to provide a fresh twist to traditional Irish ingredients and recipes using organic, seasonal and local produce. It's served in a leafy, contemporary and light environment designed by award-winning architect, Tom De Paor.

Popular dishes

Dublin Bay Prawns, red curry broth, bean sprouts, bamboo shoots and corinader €9.50 Wild Boar Ragout with Armagnac & Prunes €25

Celebrity Customers

Liam Neeson and Pierce Brosnan. Bono and Larry Mullen from U2 are regulars.

Opens

Lunch: Mon-Fri 12.30-3pm
Brunch: Sat-Sun 12-3pm
Dinner: Mon-Sun 6-10.30pm
Booking is recommended.