I am alone in the depths of the country, which is not my usual habitat. Outside my room at the Master Builder's House Hotel in Buckler's Hard is a view of the River Beaulieu looping lazily on its way to the sea, and bobbing upon the water are fine yachts of the sort I might wish to own, if I knew anything about sailing or, for that matter, water. The idea is that I sit here, glancing occasionally at the view and, in-between, finish a piece of work that has been putting up some resistance. The Master Builder's is situated in a corner of Hampshire unpolluted by mobile-phone signals. Trying to connect to the net is such a major procedure even this email addict can't be bothered. I am, in short, without distraction.
Or almost without distraction, for there is downstairs a very nice restaurant. What's more, lurking in its kitchen is somebody with the instincts of a Jewish mother. I may be alone, but at the Riverview Restaurant of the Master Builder's, I am never going to go hungry. The dining room, where I reward myself each evening, has polished wood floors, black-and-white photographs by David Bailey and - as the name suggests - a beautiful and uncluttered view of the river. The menu is equally so. The whole approach may best be described by the £16 main course listed as 'breast of duck with duck cassoulet'. Think of it as duck squared.
The cassoulet element is nothing of the sort, but that is no criticism. The dish still achieves its aim, which is to make you feel you have eaten everything but the quack. There are white beans in a meaty jus, mixed with lumps of crisp, smokey bacon. Separately, on top, comes a large leg of crisp-skinnedduck confit. Alongside that is the breast, roasted and sliced. I am a man of championship appetites, and even I struggled.
Starters, at around the £6 mark, showed equal generosity. Crab ravioli may have brought only one pasta parcel but, oi, what a parcel. The pasta was on the solid size, but inside was clean, fresh white meat, and sensitively spiced. Another starter of a chicken and black pudding sausage showed the same largesse.
Occasionally, there is a tendency toward superfluity. A rib-eye steak, so large it looked like a T-bone, came with what was advertised as a mushroom and tomato burger: two grilled portobellos, and between them a soft slice of seasoned beeftomato. It was fine enough, but it had to make its case against a fabulous piece of meat. Still, it's hard to criticise a restaurant for giving you your money's worth. Puddings brought a prune and armagnac ice cream, which was impressively heavy on fruit and booze, and a sticky-toffee pudding which achieved exactly the right balance between sauce and sponge.
Service was kind and attentive, dealing manfully with the unpredictable custom that came both from land and from the yachts tied up at the bottom of the lawns. There is also a smartly chosen wine list, which begins at £14 though, of course, as I was there to work, I paid it no attention. Well, OK then. I gave it a little attention. The view of the river really was lovely. It would have been rude not to study it, and that task demanded a glass of something French and red. I tell you, sometimes my working life really is hell. OM
Rising damp
Three places to eat within sight of the water
Mud Dock, 40 The Grove, Bristol (0117 934 9734)
The lack of pretension at this mountain-bike shop cum cafe impresses people almost as much as the waterside views and the excellent, no-nonsense food. From an initial desire to serve great coffee and sandwiches evolved a mild Spanish/North African theme, but even now you can get 'lunch for a fiver'. This might be grilled sardines with salad, chunky bread and a drink, while the evening a la carte has wild-duck breast with oriental stir-fry and stuffed courgettes with goat's cheese and fig/tomato sauce.
Choice Bar & Restaurant Castle Quay Building, Castlefield, Manchester (0161 833 3400)
This old cotton warehouse creates a chilled vibe with its piano lounge and watery views through arched windows. The award-winning food isn't bad either. Egg sabayon is served in the shell with soldiers of Parma ham to make you smile; and comfort food is popular in the form of, say, Fell-bred, Cumbrian lamb shank. But every dish has a twist: duck breast comes with pak choi, sweet potatoes and chilli-andhoney ice cream.
Finchs Arms, Oakham Road, Upper Hambleton, Rutland (01572 756575)
Low ceilings, 300-year-old beams and log fires in the bar contrast with the airiness of the Garden Room at the Finchs Arms; yet neither can quite match the fantastic view over Rutland Water. This is some inn - but not so grand that walkers feel they can't stop by for a pint. Rack of lamb wins the local vote as best dish, closely followed by halibut with sauce vierge.
Sue Webster
