Where the wild things are

Forager's weeds and fungi are cropping up on the menus of the smartest restaurants and Britain's top chefs can't get enough of the stuff.
  
  


Sea purslane at J Sheekey
Risotto with sea purslane and crab

Executive chef Tim Ewes is currently taking sea purslane, sea beet, wild garlic, samphire and bittercress from Forager, as these ingredients perfectly complement the restaurant's fish dishes.

serves 4– 6

generous slug (30g) olive oil

1 shallot, finely chopped

1 clove garlic peeled and crushed

350g Carnoli (or any Italian risotto) rice

1 litre crab stock

50g cream (optional)

60g unsalted butter

100g white crab meat

50g brown crab meat

generous handful of sea purslane leaves

Heat olive oil in a heavy frying pan, fry garlic and shallot for a few minutes - don't let them colour. Add rice and cook for a further few minutes. Slowly add crab stock, one ladle at a time, ensuring all the liquid is absorbed, until rice is just about cooked (should still have a slight bite to it). Stir in brown crab meat, butter and cream, then add the sea purslane leaves, stir in and finish with the white crab meat.

'The sea purslane adds a wonderful salty, bitter, pungent aroma of the sea.'

· J Sheekey, 28 St Martin's Court, London WC2 020 7240 2685

Toadflax at the Ivy
Salad of wild leaves

Caprice Holdings' Chef director Mark Hix is a fan of fresh spring salad leaves such as wood sorrel, bittercress, wild lamb's lettuce and ivy toadflax (an edible ivy leaf that goes down well at the Ivy).

serves 4-6

wild salad leaves, especially:

ivy toadflax

wild chervil

bittercress

wild lamb's lettuce

wood sorrel

equal amounts of chopped cos lettuce hearts

and rocket

Toss all the leaves together with a light, classic vinaigrette dressing.

'The flavours you get from these pungent, lemony, bitter, sweet wild leaves are unlike anything you get from a polytunnel. They taste the best because this is when they are meant to be grown and picked - in their natural environment.'

· The Ivy, 1 West Street, London WC2, 020 7836 4751

Marlow leaves at Moro
Wilted mallow leaves with preserved lemon, garlic, paprika and cumin

Sam and Sam Clark, head chefs of Moro, the Spanish-inspired restaurant are currently taking as many mallow leaves as Forager can supply for their new dish of wilted mallow leaves.

serves 4-6

400g young mallow leaves

6tbsp olive oil

6 cloves garlic, chopped

1 rounded dessertspoon roughly ground

cumin seeds

1 rounded tsp hot paprika

2 dessertspoons chopped preserved lemon skin, flesh removed

salt and pepper

Heat the oil in a saucepan (one which has a lid) and fry the garlic and cumin until light brown. Add the mallow leaves, paprika and preserved lemon skin, toss together and add any seasoning (the lemon can be salty). Put the lid on and steam over a medium to low heat until the leaves have wilted. Then remove from the pan and roughly chop the leaves. Serve warm or at room temperature with meat or fish, or as part of a mezze.

'Mallow leaves are used all over north Africa and the eastern Meditteranean instead of spinach - we saw them being used in Morrocco and then realised that they grow all over the countryside here, so this year we've got them on the menu.'

· Moro, 34 Exmouth Market, London EC1, 020 7833 8336

Dandelions at Lindsay House
Saddle of wild rabbit and black pudding, with dandelion, wild cress and rosemary dressing

An upbringing in the Irish countryside has made Michelin-starred chef Richard Corigan a natural fan of Forager.

serves 4

1 saddle of rabbit (boneless)

200g black pudding

6 slices of Serrano ham

60g wild dandelion leaves

a handful of rosemary

60g wild cress

2 tbsp of mustard

Maldon sea salt

100ml olive oil

juice of 1 lemon

stock syrup (½ pint of water, 150g of sugar)

100g spinach

Ask your butcher to bone out the saddle of rabbit, leaving you with two loins and two small fillets

Lay the rabbit flat on chopping board. Take black pudding and mould to the same size as the saddle and place between the loins. Put the fillets on top. Roll the rabbit in a sausage shape and take the serrano ham. Place around the rabbit. Roll in clingfilm and tie at both ends.

Remove excess stalk from dandelion leaves and wash in cold water. Wash cress. Drain separately and refrigerate. Blanch the spinach in boiling water. Pick the rosemary, remove the stalk and blanch it. Place in the blender with the mustard and spinach; gradually add the olive oil. Season, add lemon and syrup to taste.

Heat a pan with a film of oil. Remove the clingfilm from the rabbit and place in the pan on a moderate heat for around 6 minutes. Turn occasionally to have an even colour. Leave to rest on a tray for 3 minutes away from the heat. Keep pan juices. Dress the dandelion and cress with rosemary and mustard dressing. Slice rabbit and arrange 3-5 slices on each plate. Place the dandelion leaves on top. Spoon a little rosemary dressing over and finish by spooning pan juices around the plate. Season with salt.

· Lindsay House, 21 Romilly Street, London W1, 020 7439 0450

 

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