Whether it's a table by the Seine or overlooking the rooftops, critic Pierre Rival and photographer Christian Sarramon know the best places to eat - and where the decor is as original as the food. In their latest book, Gourmet Bistros and Restaurants of Paris, they list their favourites.
Brasseries the locals love
Balzar
Beautifully preserved local restaurant with a crowd of loyal patrons, including lots of academics and intellectuals from the Sorbonne.
49 rue des Écoles, 75005 (01 43 54 16 67)
Au Boeuf Couronné
Traditional meeting place for butchers and livestock merchants. It remains one of the best meat restaurants in the capital and has kept its typically 1950s decor.
188 boulevard Jean-Jaurès, 75019 (01 42 39 44 44)
Bofinger
Authentic art deco interiors and a brasserie menu from Alsace which hasn't changed for a century. Useful for the nearby Opéra Bastille.
5-7 rue de la Bastille, 75004 (01 42 72 87 82)
Brasserie Lipp
A hangout for the intelligentsia since 1880, with original art deco design and a trad Alsatian menu.
151 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 (01 45 48 72 93)
Le Café du Commerce
On fine days they open the roof of this former canteen for car workers, now famous for the excellence of its meats.
51 rue du Commerce, 75015 (01 45 75 03 27)
Charlot-Roi des Coquillages
An exuberant, marvellously detailed art deco interior and the most generous trays of seafood in Paris.
12 place Clichy, 75009 (01 53 20 48 00)
La Coupole
Montparnesse landmark dating from 1927, with wall paintings by Léger and his contemporaries. Once the biggest in Paris, with a vibe to match.
102 boulevard du Montparnasse, 75014 (01 43 20 14 20)
Le Grand Colbert
This fab reconstruction of a mid 19th-century interior is almost better than the real thing.
4 rue Vivienne, 75002 (01 42 86 87 88)
Julien
One of the most sumptuous art nouveau bouillons (working man's food hall) with a mahogany bar .
16 rue du Fauborg-Saint-Denis, 75010 (01 47 70 12 06)
Mollard
A beautiful station brasserie with art nouveau mosiacs and tiles on the walls and great sea food that has regained its former popularity.
115 rue Saint-Lazare, 75008 (01 43 87 50 22)
Le Train Bleu
Stunningly ornate, very grand station buffet.
Place Louis-Arnaud, 75012 (01 43 43 09 06)
Affordable bistros
Allard
Cosy dining room in pretty 18th-century building serving cassoulet, coq au vin and other classics.
1 rue de l'Éperon, 75006 (01 43 26 48 23)
Au Petit Riche
Once an eatery for coachmen, now serving traditional specialities from the Loire Valley.
25 rue Le Peletier, 75009 (01 47 70 68 68)
Aux Lyonnais
Alain Ducasse-owned bistro serving the sort of food you'd find in a Lyon tavern, with tiles straight out of the Paris Metro.
32 rue Saint-Marc, 75002 (01 42 96 65 04)
Le Baratin
The interior is nothing special, but Raquel Carena's cooking is definitely worth a visit.
3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 (01 43 49 39 70)
Bistro Flaubert Next door to Michel Rostang's main restaurant, with old Michelin guides on the walls and delicious little stuffed vegetables when in season.
10 rue Gustave-Flaubert, 75017 (01 42 67 05 81)
Bistrot Paul Bert A French version of the wine bar, where you keep a tab running for the evening, and what you eat is as important as what you drink. Over 300 wines are accompanied by solid offerings like velouté of lentils with foie gras or crunchy pig snout.
18 rue Paul-Bert, 75011 (01 43 72 24 01)
Chardenoux
An authentic workers' canteen with a 1904 interior that has not changed a bit. The home cooking is very popular with the regulars.
1 rue Jules-Vallès, 75011 (01 43 71 49 52)
L'Escargot Montorgueil
A celebration of the snail, including a spiral staircase and gastropod lace curtains, dating from 1880. Follow fabulous plates of escargots with lamb, veal or duck à l'orange.
38 rue Montorgueil, 75001 (01 42 36 83 51)
L'Os à Moelle
Talented young chef Thierry Faucher serves excellent, updated French classics at very reasonable prices at this unfussy, laid-back establishment. The set menu is decided for you but the results are always wonderful.
3 rue Vasco de Gama, 75015 (01 45 57 27 27)
Le Polidor
Former crèmerie and hangout for penniless Left Bank writers; now a student restaurant in the heart of the Latin Quarter. Still serves substantial, soulful food for a few pennies.
41 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 75006 (01 43 26 95 34)
Le Régalade
This is where the bistro revolution started in 1991. Yves Camdeborde bet on his native Béarn produce and brought a taste for simple, affordable food back to Paris. He has handed over to Bruno Doucet now, but the place is still a must, and it's still just as hard to get a table.
49 avenue Jean-Moulin, 75014 (01 45 45 68 58)
Le Repaire de Cartouche Modern bistro cuisine delightfully served by Rodolphe Paquin from Normandy, one of four disciples expertly trained by Christian Constant at the Crillon.
8 boulevard des Filles-du-Calvaire or 99 rue Amelot, 75011(01 47 00 25 86)
Le Vieux Bistrot
On the Ile de la Cité, in the shadow of Notre Dame, this authentic old bistro serves wonderful traditional home cooking. Think boeuf bourguignon and similar classics.
14 rue du Cloître Notre Dame, 75004 (01 43 54 18 95)
Grand and opulent
Alain Ducasse
It was Alain Ducasse who, following in the tradition of Escoffier, kickstarted the renaissance of great gastronomy in Paris's grand hotels. You can't miss the magnificent contemporary chandelier with its cloud of pendant glass drops, but the best reason for coming here is still the top-notch kitchen headed by Christophe Moret, formerly of Spoon. Think modern haute cuisine which puts the emphasis firmly on the quality of its ingredients.
Hôtel Plaza Athénée, 25 avenue Montaigne, 75008 (01 53 67 65 00)
Les Ambassadeurs
Ducasse protegé Jean-Françoise Piege has earned two Michelin stars and this splendid, marbled interior is a perfect match for him.
Hôtel de Crillon,10 place de la Concorde, 75009 (01 44 71 16 16)
Le Bristol
A hotel so grand it has a winter and a summer dining room. Eric Frechon's spring menu features scallops, eel, sweetbreads, asparagus and Normandy beef, all beautifully prepared.
112 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, 75008 (01 53 43 43 00)
Le Cinq
Award-winning chef and sommelier Philippe Legendre and Eric Beaumard reign over a triple Michelin-starred table at this legendary hotel.
George V, 31 avenue George V, 75008 (01 49 52 71 54)
Le Grand Véfour
Guy Martin's cuisine is up-to-the-minute but still satisfies those who are nostalgic for the classics.
17 rue de Beaujolais, 75001 (01 42 96 56 27)
Le Grande Cascade
Napoleon III's private pavilion is now a restaurant with terrace for promenading Parisians. On the menu? Foie gras, caviar and other treats.
Allee de Longchamp, Bois de Boulogne, 75016 (01 45 27 33 51)
Lapérouse
Worth a visit for its private dining rooms and belle époque atmosphere.
51 quai des Grands-Augustins, 75006 (01 43 26 68 04)
Lasserre
In the Fifties Salvador Dali was a fan; now Lasserre's opening roof makes it a hot location for summer dining. Great starters and a wonderful signature dish of sole in asparagus cream.
17 Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, 75008 (01 43 59 53 43)
Laurent
One of the high altars of Parisian gastronomy; chef Alain Perouget brilliantly interprets a menu first devised by Joel Robuchon.
41 Avenue Gabriel, 75008 (01 42 25 00 39)
Lucas Carton
Carved wooden art nouveau panels and booths are the setting for Alain Senderens' Asian-influenced menu. He recently returned his three Michelin stars in a quest for simplicity and affordability.
9 place de la Madeleine, 75008 (01 42 65 22 90)
Maxim's
Now owned by Pierre Cardin, Maxim's is a Parisian institution, still more theatre than restaurant. Sumptuously decorated and popular with Paris's fashionistas.
3 rue Royale, 75008 (01 42 65 27 94)
La Méditerranée
With a splendid terrace looking onto the Theatre de l'Odéon, and chef Denis Rippa from L'Ambroisie, this fish restaurant has what it needs to become a Parisian great.
2 Place de l'Odéon, 75006 (01 43 26 02 30)
Le Meurice
Yannick Alleno has turned this rather dozy place into one of the most dynamic restaurants in Paris. Enjoy the contrast between rigorous, inventive cuisine and Louis XV decor, as recreated by artisans at the beginning of the 20th century.
228 rue de Rivoli, 75001 (01 44 58 10 55)
Le Pré Catelan
Masterly chef Frédéric Anton and an idyllic 18thcentury setting in the Bois de Boulogne .
route de Suresnes, 75016 (01 44 14 41 14)
Le Procope
The oldest café-restaurant in Paris opened in 1686. Seafood is a speciality alongside simple, traditional but well-prepared fare.
13 rue de L'Ancienne-Comédie, 75006 (01 40 46 79 00)
Prunier
A monument to art deco, entirely dedicated to caviar and seafood, which is enjoying renewed favour with the Parisian smart set.
16 Avenue Victor-Hugo, 75116 (01 44 17 35 85)
Le Relais
Plaza Decor inspired by a 1930s ocean liner and contemporary, chic brasserie cuisine devised by Alain Ducasse.
Hôtel Plaza Athénée, 21 avenue Montaigne, 75008 (01 53 67 64 00)
Taillevent
Old-fashioned, top-of-the-range haute cuisine in the former residence of the Duc de Morny. This is fine dining at its best.
15 rue Lamennais, 75008 (01 44 95 15 01)
Cool and chic: The hot 10
L'Ambroisie
Bernard Pacaud wows the most jaded palate at L'Ambroisie, one of Paris's peak gastronomic experiences.
9 place des Vosges, 75004 (01 42 78 51 45)
L'Apicius
Unassuming talent and sublime dishes (including the best calf's head in Paris) from chef JeanPierre Vigato in a grand nineteenth-century building off the Champs-Elysées. Its princely garden is owned by film-maker Luc Besson.
20 rue d'Artois, 75008 (01 43 80 19 66)
L'Arpège
Here, the restrained decor allows the culinary creations to stand out. Passard is one of the most original chefs in Paris; his almost minimalist gastronomy puts vegetable dishes at the heart of the menu, but he is also a master at cooking meats to perfection.
84 rue de Varenne, 75007 (01 47 05 09 06)
L'Astrance
Pascal Barbot is the d'Artagnan of the new band of Parisian cooks. Audacity, flair and generosity counterbalance a rather provocative streak. Flavours jump off the plate and his restaurant, with its modern but discreet decor, has become a hot spot of Parisian gastronomy.
4 rue Beethoven, 75016 (01 40 50 84 40)
L'Atelier de Joël
Robuchon Gastronomic snack bar created by international restaurateur Robuchon, where customers perch on bar stools round an open kitchen and watch smartly uniformed kitchen staff slice Spanish ham and prepare langoustines. The result is a sort of very posh French sushi bar.
Hôtel Pont-Royal, 5 rue Montalembert, 75007 (01 42 22 56 56)
Le Barfly
Barfly is an oversized lounge, an imaginary American bar seen through the wrong end of a giant kaleidoscope. New York as only Paris dreams it, designed by Miguel Cancio Martins.
49-51 avenue George V, 75008 (01 53 67 84 60)
Barlotti
The fourth venture from the new prince of the trendy restaurant scene Raymond Visan. With decor inspired by Blade Runner and a menu of French and Italian basics, fashionable Parisians come here to experience what they call 'le fooding'.
35 place du Marché-Saint-Honoré, 75001 (01 44 86 97 97)
Bon
Satin-lined walls, candles, a fireplace and a lovers' dining room: chef Bruno Brangea has his work cut out to compete with Philippe Starck's take on Napoleon III furnishings, including buttonstuffed walls and a rhinoceros head.
25 rue de la Pompe, 75016 (01 40 72 70 00)
Le Café Marly
The terrace here looks directly onto the Louvre pyramid, and Olivier Gagnère has done some flamboyant decor with chairs featuring brass rings and feet and a Murano chandelier.
Le Louvre, Cour Napoléon,93 rue de Rivoli, 75001 (01 49 26 06 60)
Guy Savoy
With his cooking rooted in the terroirs, Guy Savoy never combines more than three flavours and painstakingly sources his ingredients. Game and truffles (think artichoke soup with black truffles) are specialities. Committed gourmands shouldn't miss a pilgrimage to this three Michelin-starred temple to gastronomy.
18 rue Troyon, 75017 (01 43 80 40 61)
Maison Blanche
Jacques and Laurent Pourcel have their Parisian HQ on the terrace of the Théâtre des ChampsÉlysées with a striking modern structure off ering great views of Paris and an extraordinary phosphorescent bar. The Pourcel brothers' aromatic, spicy menu, rich in seafood, is inspired by France's borders with Spain in the Languedoc.
Théâtre des Champs-Élysées, 15 avenue Montaigne, 75008 (01 47 23 55 99)
Market
A courageous attempt to bring fusion to the French by Alsatian chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The menu includes tuna and wasabi, lobster and radish and chicken satay; the interior features a collection of primitive art in stone and wood.
15 avenue Matignon, 75008 (01 56 43 40 90)
Michel Rostang
Solid but refined cuisine bourgeoise such as veal shank, whole veal sweetbread and fattened Bresses chicken in an atmosphere of plush, old fashioned elegance. A curiosity is the chef's enormous collection of porcelain figurines stored in a vast pearwood cabinet.
20 rue Rennequin, 75017 (01 47 63 40 77)
Le Murat
Over-the-top interior based on the Grande Armée of the Napoleonic Wars: blood-red chairs, violet and green silk curtains hiding one or two alcoves, and silver birch trunks on wall and ceiling. The menu features contemporary standards.
1 boulevard Murat, 75016 (01 46 51 33 17)
Pershing Hall
Andrée Putman's design features pink transparent panels, vases and chairs in red and a vertically planted terrace wall. The chef is from Nobu and the food a French/Japanese fusion.
49 rue Pierre Charron, 75008 (01 58 36 58 36)
Pinxo
This cheaper off shoot of chef Alain Dutournier's Carré des Feuillants features such specialities as Aquitaine beef and is staffed by waiters in black pyjamas.
9 rue d'Alger, 75001 (01 40 20 72 00)
Restaurant Pierre
Gagnaire Before Heston Blumenthal opened the Fat Duck, Pierre Gagnaire was perfecting 'molecular gastronomy' with the help of chemist Hervé in a quest for the 'true nature of ingredients' and what happens to them in the cooking process. Dishes include chantilly cheese, warm aspic or flank steak in soup - he's thinking up new ideas all the time. The decor is sober to the point of austerity.
6 rue Balzac, 75008 (01 58 36 12 50)
Spoon, Wine and Food
Alain Ducasse combines modern, exotic and traditional techniques to produce a harmonious fusion cuisine which doesn't blur flavours. The pale grey decor is bare but elegant.
14 rue de Marignan, 75008 (01 40 76 34 44)
La Table De
Joël Robuchon The young Frédéric Simonin, former right-hand man to Ghislaine Arabian, is proving to be an outstanding chef, and top man Joël Robuchon seems to be standing by his intention to place great food within the reach of (almost) every budget. The caramel-coloured decor is chic and functional.
16 avenue Bugeaud, 75016 (01 56 28 16 16)
Terrasse Mirabeau
Pierre Negrevergne is just as capable of dashing off dishes in the bistro style as devising more sophisticated preparations. His simple, modernlooking neo-bistro is one of the best restaurants in this well-to-do neighbourhood.
5 place de Barcelone, 75016 (01 42 24 41 51)
Tokyo Eat
More like an aircraft carrier than a restaurant, Tokyo Eat comes festooned with pink flying saucers which blast out techno. The fusion food is adventurous, not to say wacky, the prices are reasonable, the service comes with a smile and the customers are a mix. Not surprisingly, it's doing fantastically well.
Palais de Tokyo, 13 avenue du President Wilson, 75016 (01 47 20 00 29)
Ze Kitchen
Galerie Guy Savoy protégé William Ledeuil, another master of fusion, opened this handsome space in 2001. The decor is post-modern and the place is just a little too noisy, but dishes such as scallops and oysters in horseradish and his fantastic pasta make it more than worth a visit.
4 rue des Grands-Augustins, 75006 (01 44 32 00 32)
· Gourmet Bistros and Restaurants of Paris by Pierre Rival and Christian Sarramon is published by Flammarion, £19.95. To order a copy for £18.95 with free UK p&p go to observer.co.uk/bookshop or call 0870 836 0885
