Look for an all-beef smoked frankfurter with a natural casing – this will give it the "snap" as you bite into it. I prefer my dogs griddled rather than steamed as you get whole new layers of flavours from the cooking process which are absent in a steamed frank.

Every time I visit New York, my first stop is always at one of the hot dog carts that line the streets of Manhattan. Most sell smoked beef dogs and offer sauerkraut, mustard or sometimes onion relish as toppings (ketchup is for amateurs). They might not be "gourmet" but they are very satisfying and, together with pizza slices the size of my head, they are for me at least, the taste of Manhattan.

I like a mild Polish deli mustard for this dog, rather than a fiery yellow English mustard which goes better on a British sausage sandwich. Polish sauerkraut tends to be slightly more crunchy than others, adding a nice bite. It stands up best to braising with a bit of beer without going soggy.

Sour kraut hot dog

all-beef smoked frankfurter 1
hot dog bun 1
Polish sauerkraut 1 jar
Polish mustard 1 bottle
Polish lager 1 can (plus 1 to serve)
onion ½ diced

In a saucepan combine the sauerkraut with a cup of the lager and a couple of teaspoons of mustard over a low heat. Cover and simmer for a few minutes. You're not cooking it through – you want a bit of bite in the cabbage. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Very gently, fry the frankfurter in a heavy bottomed pan with a tiny smear of vegetable oil, turning regularly until it colours and is cooked through. Slice the bun lengthwise, leaving a substantial hinge at the bottom so it doesn't split all the way through. You can warm it in the microwave for a few seconds too if you wish. Nestle the frankfurter inside the hot dog roll and top with some of the warm, beery sauerkraut. Make sure you shake off most of the excess liquid or the bun will get soggy and disintegrate. This stuff goes a long way and is slippery as sin, so you won't need much. Sprinkle a few diced onions along the top, add a squirt of mustard and voila: Polish toppings crowning a German sausage… One Sour Kraut.

Serve with another can of the beer and lots of paper towels.