The brining in this recipe might seem a hassle, but it makes a difference. It seasons the wings to the bone, helps retain moisture, and can produce amazing crisp skin when finished on a hot grill.

SERVES 4

For the master chicken brine
water 4 litres
Maldon sea salt 180g
muscovado sugar 60g
spice bag 1 (dried chillies, peppercorns, cumin, star anise, cloves, coriander seed, liquorice stick)
herbs 1 faggot (thyme, bay, rosemary)

For the chicken wings
chicken wings whole, 3-joint, free-range 1kg
chicken dry rub 100g (50/50 granulated sugar/sea salt is a good base then add whatever spices you wish – toasted fennel seed, coriander, cumin, paprika, pepper, oregano, thyme, onion powder, cayenne)
hot sauce 50ml
barbecue sauce 100ml
unsalted butter 200g
cider vinegar 100ml

You will also need
instant read thermometer

Make the brine in advance. Bring all the ingredients to the boil in a pot. Allow to cool. Add wings and leave for up to 24 hours. If you do not have time for this, 4 hours or so will suffice. Leave the wings to dry a little on a clean towel in the fridge once removed from the brine.

Make sure you have a meat thermometer. They are pretty essential for consistent barbecuing. Set smoker for indirect cooking with the burning coals pushed to one end, the barbecue and the cooking area for the wings on the other. Toss a small handful of wood chunks on the coals and close the lid. You should try to keep the temperature in the barbecue at around 105C so adjust your air vents until you find the temperature – 100-110C is fine. Too much higher and there will be the danger of drying out the meat.

Once the wings are dry, rub them thoroughly with the dry rub. Place the wings on the barbecue and close the lid. After 30-45 minutes, check to make sure the barbecue is behaving and give the wings a turn. Try to check as little as possible thereafter, so as not to lose moisture and heat. Wings need to reach at least 70C internal temperature. About 1½ hours should be plenty, but be patient and only remove when ready. Similarly, if they cook quicker, remove when they hit 70C.

Meanwhile, add the hot sauce, the barbecue sauce, butter and vinegar to a pan and gently cook down for 5 minutes until fully emulsified. A whisk might be helpful. Season with salt and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Once the wings are cooked, remove from the barbecue and let sit. Crank up the barbecue for direct grilling – not super-hot but just enough to finish the wings on the grill until crisp, caramelised and slightly charred. Toss the wings in the hot sauce until well covered and serve immediately with pickles and a beer. Use lots of napkins.

• Pitt Cue Co, 1 Newburgh Street, London W1F 7RB, and on the South Bank under Hungerford Bridge, Belvedere Road, London SE1 8XX; Twitter: @pittCueCo