Cetara is right at the eastern end of the Amalfi Coast – so has remained a sweet little fishing village. For thousands of years the villagers have specialised in catching and preserving anchovies. They make a wonderful anchovy essence, a little like Thai fish sauce or nam pla, by pressing the fish. It's absolutely delicious on hot spaghetti with onions. Stock up at one of the little delis in the village, and also buy anchovies in oil and some anchovy pesto, to bring home. If you want to stop for a lunch of local delicacies, try Francesco Tammaro at Ristorante San Pietro (+39 089 261091, sanpietroristorante.it).
At Minori, Salvatore de Riso is a third-generation pastry-cook extraordinaire, and he's rightly proud of his pastries at Sal De Riso on Piazza Cantilena. He is most famous for his delizia al limone, which you can find all along the Amalfi Coast, but if you're going to have it anywhere, have it here. They serve delicious cappuccinos too, so sit outside and watch life go by on the promenade, then have a wander around Minori itself, which is beautiful.
We'd been told that GAS Bar (via Mauro Comite 47) in Amalfi does the best coffee, and it is true – the coffee is fantastic, as are the little oval pastries, filled with custard and cherry, called pasticciotti. The owners are young and passionate about their coffee, taking great care of their espresso machine. It's not an easy place to stop, as it's on a junction, but locals pull up and nip inside for a perfect espresso and then zoom off.
At lunchtime, head slightly further west to Praiano, with its pebbled beach and fishing boats. Walk down to the front and then follow the cliffs to the right, passing all the little restaurants, to the end. There you will find Ristorante il Pirata . The owner's mother is in her 80s but still works in the kitchen, making wonderful potato croquettes and totani e patate, a tomatoey calamari dish particular to Praiano. Sit in the sun, or eat there in the evening when it is very pretty (and they give you rugs if it gets chilly).
Praiano is also the place to eat amazing lobster spaghetti, as made by Signora Clelia at Bar Mare (via Marina di Praia, 9, +39 0898 74326). The menu changes every day, depending on what the fishermen bring in, so we had to wait several days for lobster. She showed us how to make it: using just Amalfi lemons, local olive oil and sometimes a little fresh mint.
In Positano, Il San Pietro di Positano on via Laurito is a beautiful hotel, Michelin-starred and expensive. Go for an evening drink, sit on the terrace overlooking the sea and it will feel as though you are in a film. The waiters wear bow ties and the drinks come on silver salvers, and although it is €15 for one cocktail, they come with the very best local nuts and olives. The cocktails are wonderful things like rosemary-and-gin fizzes. Afterwards you can go and get a pizza somewhere cheaper, or dine at Next2, a modern and friendly restaurant run by a mother and daughter with an excellent and delicate touch.
• The Amalfi Coast: A Collection of Italian Recipes by Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi is published by Hardie Grant, £25
