Kevin Gould 

10 scrummy retreats

Gothenburg | Arbois | Trossachs | Dingle | Tolosa | Naples | Agrigento | Ripon | Bruges | Laguiole
  
  

L'Azienda Fattoria Mose, Sicily
L'Azienda Fattoria Mose is the Agnellos' lovely home set in their olive farm on Sicily's southern coast. Photograph: PR

The following correction was printed in the Guardian's Corrections and clarifications column, Saturday March 3 2007

We said in the article below that GNER services went to Ripon station. Ripon lost its railway service in 1967. The nearest train stations are Harrogate and York.

1. Gothenburg, Sweden

Sweden's gastronomic capital has Michelin-starred restaurants (cheaper and less fussy than those in the UK, book the day before), plus trendy bars in Linnestaden. Forget conveyor-belt sushi bars: at Rakan you "fish" your own fresh seafood from the table-side mini-lake, employing a radio-controlled model fishing boat. Rakan, Lorensbergsgatan 16 (00 46 31 169 839, rakan.se). Ryanair.com flies to Gothenburg from Stansted.

2. Arbois, France

Arbois in the Jura mountains is home to Hotel Jean-Paul Jeunet, France's best restaurant (says Gault Millau) and Hirsinger, France's best chocolatier (says me). Hotel Jean-Paul Jeunet, 9 Rue de l'Hotel de Ville (00 33 384 660 567, jeanpauljeunet.com). Hirsinger, Place de la Liberte (660 697, chocolat-hirsinger.com). Easyjet.com flies to Geneva, from where Arbois is about a two-hour drive.

3. Trossachs, Scotland

Pete Gottgens was Nelson Mandela's chef. At his Ardeonaig Hotel in the Trossachs, he indulges his passion for fresh, natural food by serving teal, mallard, widgeon and rare-breed lamb from his own herd. Best of all, you can take a boat and a ghillie, and fish your own wild salmon dinner out of Loch Tay, which the hotel overlooks. Ardeonaig Hotel, South Loch Tay Side, by Killin, Perthshire (01567 820400, ardeonaighotel.com). Travel by train to Pitlochry (firstscotrail.com), from where the hotel can arrange the 40-min road transfer, complete with champagne.

4. Dingle, Ireland

Dingle in Co Kerry is blowy, damp, and fresh - a great place for pearly seafood and dark Guinness. Doyle's Seafood restaurant and townhouse is the best place in town to eat, and offers a few lovely, atmospheric rooms. Doyle's, John Street (00 353 66 91 51174, doylesofdingle.com). Fly to Kerry with ryanair.com from London and aerarann.com from Manchester.

5. Tolosa, Spain

Casa Julian in Tolosa is where the Michelin-starred chefs of San Sebastian go for grilled meat - lots of it. Casa Julian, Santa Clara 6 (00 39 943 67 14 17), closed Sundays. Fly to San Sebastian via Madrid with ba.com.

6. Naples, Italy

The best pizza in Naples bar none is yours at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele dal 1870. Not much to look at, and not much to choose from - pizza margherita and marinara only, in fact - but the quintessential pizza. L'Antica, Via Cesare Sersale 1/3 (00 39 81 553 9204, damichele.net). Easyjet.com flies to Naples, and you can buy buffalo mozzarella to bring home at the airport.

7. Agrigento, Sicily

L'Azienda Fattoria Mose is the Agnellos' lovely home set in their olive farm near Agrigento on Sicily's southern coast. Everything you eat here tastes of the sun, and comes from the immediate vicinity - including the Agnellos' glorious bright, peppery olive oil (as sold at Fortnum and Mason, no less). Three nights from £466pp (sharing) including return flights from Gatwick and car hire. Sunvil Italy (020-8568 4499, sunvil.co.uk).

8. Ripon, North Yorkshire

Rosemary Shrager is not only a talented chef, but also a talented teacher. Her cookery school is in the Georgian stable block of Swinton Park, a glorious castle near Ripon in North Yorkshire. Day or residential courses, with accommodation in the smart, chic hotel, a walk across the lawn from the stables. Rosemary Shrager at Swinton Park, Masham (01765 680900, swintonpark.com). GNER trains (gner.co.uk) go to Ripon station.

9. Bruges, Belgium

Its medieval centre is practically traffic-free, making Bruges a fine place to drink a few beers. Head for Cambrinus, which has 400 beers on the menu, and a (surprisingly good) food menu. Cambrinus, Philipstockstraat 19 (00 32 50 33 23 28, cambrinus.eu). Bruges is an hour by train from Brussels Central. Eurostar.com offers free return tickets to any Belgian destination when you travel with them to Brussels.

10. Laguiole, France

The best Michelin-type meal I've ever eaten was at Michel Bras' restaurant in Laguiole, which hangs high over the village. Entirely family run, the service is sensational and the food is inspired and inspiring. The half a dozen bedrooms have picture windows and jut out from the high hillside. Michel Bras, Route de l'Aubrac (00 33 5 65 51 18 20, michel-bras.com). Fly ryanair.com to Rodez and drive one hour to Laguiole.

 

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