This award-winning seafood restaurant is shellfish HQ: well-stocked tanks teem with lobster, mussels and clams, while scallops and crab are shipped in from Cornwall. Although a makeover has left its toothpaste green interior and incongruous columns intact, the establishment now boasts an airy private dining space, and views of a tranquil river Severn make up for such oddball design.

The indecisive should go for the fruits de mer - an ocean on a plate of fat oysters, langoustine, North Atlantic prawns and brown shrimps. But where chef Patrick Le Mesurier excels at clean and simple fare, his Dover sole suffers from an overenthusiastic dousing of nut-brown butter. For pudding and cheese, try the vanilla crème caramel or the steadying Quicke's goat's milk cheddar.

Price per head £30