Mina Holland 

Christmas taste test: cheese

French and English cheese tested by the chef from Le Gavroche, Michel Roux Jr
  
  

Michel Roux Jnr
Michel Roux Jr photographed by Mark Harrison for the Observer Food Monthly Photograph: Mark Harrison

Brie

Paxton & Whitfield
Brie de Meaux

£25 per kg
Beautifully ripe and tastes how it should: of the pastures and of herbs. It would be gorgeous with some truffles.
★★★★★

Tesco
Finest Brie de Meaux

170g, £2.47
Very chalky, rubbery and tastes like a mild child's cheese. It should be creamy all the way through.
★★★

The Co-operative
Truly Irresistible Brie Pays

£14.21 per kg
Looks a bit chalky and tastes underripe. Quite bouncy and chewy. I doubt it is French.
★★

Riverford
Acorn Brie

£5.45 for 230g
Chalky texture and very dry – the opposite of what a brie should be. It has a plastic taste and I can tell it isn't French!
No stars

Mature cheddar

BEST BUY
Waitrose
Waitrose Westcombe mature cheddar

£15.99 per kg
Has a real tang and it is soft and creamy yet crumbly. Tastes at least 12 months old. Would be fabulous with a pickle.
★★★★★

Marks & Spencer
Cornish Cruncher

300g, £5
Very buttery with a little tang. Reasonably matured with lots of crunchy crystals. Lovely.
★★★★

Paxton & Whitfield
Cave Aged Cheddar

£19 per kg
A cheese to toast, not for a cheeseboard. The taste is good but it feels processed.
★★

The Co-operative
Truly Irresistible Parkham Farm Extra Mature

250g, £2.49
This one is much younger – it's got that farmyard taste. It's just not aged enough.
★★

Goat's cheese

Harrods
Saint Maure

250g, £9.50
Looks beautiful, has a great texture and a nutty taste. The level of acidity is just right, there's a nice tang and creamy all the way through. It's screaming out for a glass of wine!
★★★★★

Neal's Yard Dairy
Innes Log

£8.70 each
The skin looks really nice – it has a light bloom on it. Quite creamy although the centre is a little dry. Needs a couple of days to mature.
★★★★

Waitrose
Waitrose Moody's Rosary Ash

100g, £3.19
Very fresh and barely set. It's goaty but a little bit mild and slightly too dry. Still, would be lovely with a pickle.
★★★

Tesco
Finest Kidderton Ash

150g, £2.50
Rubbery on the outside, dry inside. It is synthetic and horrible – it doesn't taste like goat's cheese.

Stilton

Sainsbury's
Taste the Difference Tuxford & Tebbutt Stilton

210g, £2.25
The initial mouth feel of this is lovely – really creamy and plenty of salt, but I'm getting a strange whiff on aftertaste. It is well balanced though.
★★★★

Tesco
Finest Long Clawson Mature Blue Stilton

215g, £2.25
For me, stilton should be creamy, salty and have that tang of a blue cheese. The texture of this is good but the aftertaste is too bitter.
★★★

Aldi
Specially Selected Mature Blue Stilton

£1.69, 220g
Good texture but a little dry. It is good stilton but needs another month to be ready – in time for Christmas.
★★★

Neal's Yard Dairy
Colston Bassett

£22.90 per kg
That's bizarre! Another farmyardy cheese. I'm not keen on the texture or the taste. It's visibly very dry and it doesn't have any moisture in the mouth.
★★

Epoisses

Waitrose
Waitrose Berthaut Epoisses

250g, £6.22
Alive and moving on the plate, and a beautiful bright orange. The texture is lovely but it would need to be left in the box.
★★★★★

Marks & Spencer
Epoisses

250g, £7.49
Creamy all the way through – the texture is gorgeous. Perfectly ripe and the skin isn't too sweaty. Slightly too salty.
★★★★

Sainbury's
Taste the Difference Epoisses

250g, £4.15
I need a Calvados with that! Hits the back of the nose with its aromas but otherwise a bit bland.
★★★

La Fromagerie
Epoisses Affine

200g, £8.45
It looks unappetising. To taste it's a stinky cheese lover's dream but the texture isn't right.
★★★

Chutney

BEST BUY
Tracklements
Christmas Chutney

625g, £6.55
Lovely plump fruit with very Christmassy flavours, not too sweet. It tastes and looks expensive, with really nice spices. The perfect accompaniment to cheddar or blue cheese.
★★★★★

Sainsbury's
Taste the Difference Spiced Apple and Pear Chutney

300g, £1.88
Sharp and acidic to taste, and glistening to look at. Lots of onion and very vegetably. Spicing could be more delicate.
★★★★

Harrods
Tomato and Date Chutney

320g, £4.95
Nice sweet and sour and would go well with curry, but it's too overpowering for cheese.
★★

The Co-operative
Truly Irresistible Fruit Chutney

300g, £1.85
Looks bad and is extremely sharp. More like an onion jam mixed with cheap vinegar.
No stars

 

Leave a Comment

Required fields are marked *

*

*