Although AA Gill's "worst place in the world" critique was first class tripe, few could claim this Cotswold town was a vibrant culinary hub. While the cream tea guzzling pensioner is well catered for, anyone with their own teeth has to hunt hard for gustatory satisfaction.

Gloriously, this Egon Ronay-starred new venture rises above the baguettes and fudge. Peter Robinson's menu is essentially new British, with forays into France, Spain and Italy.

He pulls off a mean brandade - a smooth confection of cod, milk and garlic, crowned by a poached egg - and you'd hock your granny's best teapot for the grilled marinated quail with pomegranates. For mains, try the roast pork belly with fennel and quince aïoli or the plump duck breast.

Price per head £24