Beet and blackberry

SERVES 4
For the beetroot:
baby beetroot 300g, unpeeled
unsalted butter 30g
vinegar 1 tbsp
sea salt
fresh herbs sprigs of thyme, lemon thyme, sage or other aromatic herbs

For the blackberry sauce:
blackberry 250g
dried or freeze-dried blackberry (this is for acidity – if the blackberries are very acidic don't use) 10g
shallot 6g, diced
coriander stem 3g
fresh coriander seeds 1.5g
salt 3g
runny honey 1 tsp

For the garnish:
olive oil
coriander leaves

Preheat the oven to 160C/gas mark 3. Place the unpeeled baby beets on a sheet of foil. Add knobs of the butter, a tablespoon of the vinegar and a good sprinkle of sea salt. Lay sprigs of the fresh herbs across the top and seal up the foil into a pouch leaving a little space for air to circulate. Place pouch on an oven tray and bake in a pre-heated oven for 45 minutes or until a knife slices easily into the beetroots.

Meanwhile, in a mortar, crush the blackberries, diced shallot, coriander stem and seeds with the salt. Add a teaspoon of honey if too acidic. When formed into a mush, pass through a sieve. Once the beetroots are cooked, allow to cool then peel off the skins and slice in half. Spoon the blackberry sauce into the gaps between the beets. Finish with a dribble of olive oil and fresh coriander leaves. Taste beets for salt, and sprinkle more if needed.

Cauliflower and whey

SERVES 4
For the yoghurt whey:
natural yoghurt 2 litres

For the horseradish cream:
double or whipping cream 250g
fresh horseradish 75g, finely grated

For the cauliflower:
cauliflower 1 medium-sized
unsalted butter 50g
spruce and juniper branches
apple cider vinegar 1 tsp
salt

Twenty-four hours in advance, make the yoghurt whey – hang 2 litres of natural yoghurt through muslin for 24 hours. Prepare the horseradish cream: finely grate the fresh horseradish, mix into double or whipping cream and leave to infuse overnight.

The next day, slice off the bottom of the cauliflower just above the root. Melt the butter gently in a cast iron pan with a lid. Place the cauliflower, flat-side down, in the butter. Slap the spruce and juniper branches against each other to release aromas. Arrange the branches around and on top of the cauliflower, put the lid on and leave to cook on a medium to low heat for 25 to 35 minutes (a smallish cauliflower 25 minutes, a large 30-35 minutes). The bottom should end up fully caramelised, while the rest is steamed and infused with the herbs. At the end of cooking, discard the branches, remove the cauliflower from the pot and leave to cool on a plate for 10 minutes. Keep the warm cooking juices left in the bottom of the pot.

Take the yoghurt whey, the thin translucent liquid gathered by hanging yoghurt in muslin. Warm gently in a pan (do not boil), and mix with 2 or 3 tablespoons of the buttery cooking juices from the cauliflower pot. Add a teaspoon of fruit vinegar (such as apple cider vinegar) and a sprinkle of salt. Serve around the cauliflower as a warm broth.

To finish the horseradish cream, strain then whip. Serve on the side with the cauliflower. If pressed for time, juice one whole peeled root of horseradish to flavour the cream. This won't yield a lot of juice and only holds flavour for 4-5 hours, but is very, very strong until then.

Oysters and cabbage

SERVES 4
For the cabbage:
Swiss chard 1 large, picked weight 250g
ground elder (optional) 50g
celery tops 35g just the leaves, or 80g if no ground elder

For the butter emulsion:
tea bag 1, English Breakfast (Yorkshire would be my preference or PG tips)
water 25g
unsalted butter 75g

To finish:
fresh oysters 8
fresh cobnuts about 12, halved
vinegar 1-2 tsp
salt

Make a cup of tea using the measured water. Remove the tea bag and pour into a pan. Beat in knobs of unsalted butter until the liquid and fat forms an emulsion that will cover the back of a wooden spoon. Pour off enough of the emulsion to leave a generous covering at the bottom of the pan and warm gently.

Tear up the leaves of the Swiss chard and put them into the pan, turning them gently in the emulsion until just covered and beginning to wilt. Add the more delicate ground elder, if using, and celery top leaves. Turn gently over the heat for another minute.

Add the meat and juices of the freshly shucked oysters and gently mix. Serve in a dish and dress with a dozen or so halved fresh cobnuts. Sprinkle with a teaspoon or two of fruit vinegar and a pinch of salt.