We shouldn't forget that a perfectly roasted piece of protein-on-the-bone served with its myriad accompaniments is not everyone's idea of heaven on earth. Some want a Christmas meal that is lighter, brighter and, crucially, totally meatless. The Christmas feast should be for everyone who gathers round our table. Here are some of the meat-free recipes I will be passing round over the next few weeks.

Pumpkin tortilla

The freshness of the salad and its bitterness is a striking contrast to the warm floury quality of the tortillas and the soft sweetness of the little pumpkin cakes with their faint notes of garlic and thyme. The parts are brought together with a garlicky yoghurt dressing that leaks out of the tortilla as you eat.

Serves 2.

For the pumpkin cakes:

1 x 850g pumpkin
a few sprigs of thyme
a couple of cloves of garlic
2 tortillas
2 handfuls salad leaves, small and peppery
half a small red onion

For the yoghurt sauce:

4 heaped tbs yoghurt
a small clove garlic
a handful of coriander leaves

Set the oven at 200°C/gas 6. Peel the pumpkin, cut the flesh into fat chunks then put them in a roasting tin that can accommodate them in a single layer. Tuck several sprigs of thyme among them and grind over plenty of salt and pepper. Bake for 50 minutes to an hour until the pumpkin is tender enough to crush with a fork.

To make the yoghurt sauce, mix the yoghurt, peeled and crushed garlic and coriander leaves with a little salt and fine pepper. Set aside to chill.

Pull out the thyme sprigs, mash the pumpkin flesh with a fork or potato masher then add the finely crushed garlic. With floured hands, roll the pumpkin into eight small patties. Warm a non-stick pan over a moderate heat, then cook the little patties for a few moments on each side, turning them as they brown.

Toast the tortillas under a hot grill then divide the handfuls of salad between them. Peel the onion, slice it thinly and scatter among the salad leaves. Tuck the hot pumpkin cakes into the salad, drizzle with the yoghurt sauce and fold up the tortillas. Eat immediately.

Beetroot frittata

Of all the frittatas I have made, I had never thought to use starchy vegetables until now. The almost raw crispness of the finely grated beet is pleasing with the soft eggyness of the omelette.

I think you need a salad here, something leafy and bitter such as watercress and orange. It would work beautifully with the beet.

Serves 1-2.

175g raw beetroot
4 spring onions
a handful of parsley
a small bunch of dill
a clove of garlic
3 eggs
a large knob of butter
50g grated parmesan

Peel the beetroot then grate it finely. This is easiest done in a food processor otherwise you and the kitchen will be covered in tiny blood-red spottles. Thinly slice the spring onions, remove the leaves from the parsley and chop them, then chop the dill fronds and stir all into the beet.

Peel and crush the garlic. Melt the butter in a shallow, non-stick pan about 28cm in diameter then add the garlic and let it sizzle gently until it becomes a pale gold. Add the grated beetroot and cook for two or three minutes. Beat the eggs lightly, season, add half of the grated parmesan and then pour them over the softened beetroot. Cook on a very low heat until the eggs appear to be just setting. A matter of 7 or 8 minutes, maybe more.

Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top and finish under a hot grill till it is set and golden, but far from brown.

Chard and cheddar tart

My first thought is to use a British cheese for this, something sharp and fruity that will complement the earthy, mineral quality of the chard leaves. A well-made cheddar such as Montgomery's will do nicely.

Serves 6 or more.

For the pastry:

250g flour
100g butter
35g sharp farmhouse cheddar
1 tsp thyme leaves
1 egg, beaten

For the filling:

270g of red or rainbow chard
4 thin spring onions
2 large eggs
300ml double cream
50g grated cheddar
40g grated pecorino
a baking sheet, about 30cm x 23cm

Put the flour into a mixing bowl and add the butter, cut into small dice. Rub the butter into the flour until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs (you can also do this in a food processor). Grate the cheese and stir in along with a pinch of black pepper and the beaten egg. Bring together to form a soft ball, adding a little milk if necessary.

Lightly flour a work surface. Roll the pastry out and use it to line the baking sheet. (If your baking sheet is non-stick then brush it with a little butter.) Press the pastry carefully into the corners and trim the edges. Chill for a good 30 minutes. Don't be tempted to skip the chilling period, otherwise your pastry will shrink in the oven. Set the oven at 200°C/gas 6.

To make the filling, blanch the chard in a little boiling water. You want it to be soft and tender. Drain and squeeze as much of the water out with your hands as you can, then roughly chop it. Finely slice the spring onions and add to the chard with a seasoning of salt and pepper.

Lay a piece of tin foil or greaseproof paper in the pastry case, weighing it down with baking beans (I sometimes find a piece of silver foil is heavy enough to do the job without the beans). Bake for 15 minutes or so till the pastry is firm, remove the foil or paper and return to the oven for five minutes till dry to the touch.

Put the chard into the pastry case. Beat the eggs and cream till well mixed, and season lightly. Scatter the grated cheeses over the chard and pour over the egg and milk mixture. Bake for about 20-25 minutes till the pastry is crisp and the filling has set.

Mushroom with mozzarella and crumbs

An Italian classic updated to include a layer of melting mozzarella.

Serves 2

2 medium onions
olive oil
2 large cloves garlic, peeled and sliced thinly
leaves of 3 bushy sprigs of rosemary, chopped finely
90g fresh, white breadcrumbs (ciabatta is perfect)
6 large open field mushrooms 250g (1 ball) buffalo mozzarella
a handful of grated parmesan

Peel the onions and chop them finely, then let them cook over a moderate heat with a couple of glugs of olive oil, until soft and translucent but not coloured. Stir in the garlic and rosemary.

Finely chop two of the mushrooms and add to the onions then leave to cook, stirring occasionally, adding more oil if necessary, till all is warm and fragrant. Stir in the breadcrumbs and a little salt and black pepper. Chop the stalks from the remaining four mushrooms and add them to the onions. Lay the mushroom tops gill-side up in a shallow baking dish, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Cut the mozzarella into small dice and divide between the mushrooms. Divide the stuffing between them. Scatter the grated parmesan on top of the filling and drizzle lightly with olive oil.

Bake for 35-40 minutes till the mushrooms are tender and the filling is crisp on top.

· Tell us about your alternative Christmas dinner plans here
· Nigel Slater's Eating for England is published by Fourth Estate, £16.99