Why go now?
Spring is the best time to visit the Jordanian capital, with temperatures toasty but not scorching, the countryside lush with wildflowers - and blue skies guaranteed. Boosting the sunny outlook, there's a new spirit of dynamism in the air. Investment is pouring into Amman: new buildings are going up, neighbourhoods are being rejuvenated and the city is humming with cafes, galleries and commerce. Jordanian architects and designers are starting to get noticed. If you're dreaming of medieval mosques, gloomy spice bazaars and fading romance, go elsewhere; if you want a handle on how a young, buzzy Arabic capital is making its way in the modern world, Amman is for you.
Checking in
Five-star hotels dot the boulevards of west Amman, most of them familiar international brand names. For its outstanding service and sleekly renovated interiors, Le Méridien (00 962 6 569 6511; lemeridien.com; doubles from £110) is a top choice, with a good location in the lively district of Shmaisani, within walking distance of cafes, restaurants and nightlife. Near 6th Circle, the San Rock (00 962 6 551 3800; sanrockhotel.com; doubles from £43) is a decent mid-range option, while those willing to rough it should head to the alleys in the downtown area, which is crammed with £3-a-night backpacker dives.
Hit the streets
Amman is no phoney, oil-fuelled megalopolis: it features in the Old Testament, was a major Roman provincial capital and has an amiable, homegrown bustle about it. A 6,000-seat Roman theatre in the city centre dates from around 170AD and is still occasionally used for concerts. Opposite, atop Jabal al-Qal'ah (Citadel Hill), looms the Temple of Hercules, and the remains of an eighth-century Islamic palace. But don't get hung up on history. Amman has a thriving contemporary arts scene, showcased at the striking National Gallery (nationalgallery.org) and nearby galleries such as Darat al-Funun (daratalfunun.org), Makan (makanhouse.net) and Dar al-Anda (daralanda.com).
Coffee break
Al-Rashid Courts, a traditional downtown coffee house dating from 1924, serves aromatic Arabic-style coffee on its balcony overlooking the urban bustle. Otherwise, head over to the glitzy Abdoun district in the west of the city for the hip Blue Fig (00 962 6 592 8800; bluefig.com) which serves gourmet coffees and light bites with some heavy beats.
Retail therapy
Amman's downtown Gold Souk is one of the cheapest places in the world to buy gold jewellery; bargain hard. Crafts outlet Al-Aydi (00 962 6 464 4555) has a huge stock, ranging from exquisite Palestinian glassware to embroidery, jewellery, carpets and more; profits are shared with local craftspeople. Silsal (00 962 6 593 1128; silsal.com) produces graceful pottery from a workshop near 5th Circle, while Jordan River Designs (00 962 6 461 2169; jordanriver.jo) has beautiful homewares and textiles, including magnificent Bedouin rugs woven by women of the Bani Hamida tribe.
Neighbourhood watch
Too many backpackers never venture beyond downtown, while too many upscale visitors get stuck in wealthy west Amman: make sure you mix things up. Easygoing Rainbow Street, near 1st Circle, hosted Amman's nobility when the city began to expand in the 1920s and remains perfect for an afternoon stroll amid the elegant honey-coloured villas (backdrop for a great Friday street market), while the wi-fi-enabled terrace cafes of trendy Wakalat Street in Swayfiyya are the venue of the moment for a sociable early-evening passeggiata
Worked up an appetite?
Try the Wild Jordan Café (1st Circle; 00 962 6 463 3542; wildjordancafe.com) - with a terrace boasting spectacular city views - for salads, lean steaks, chicken wraps and thirst-quenching smoothies. Amman's restaurants offer cuisines from French to Japanese, but you'll be most likely to want to eat Arabic. Charming, understated Fakhr El-Din (2nd Circle; 00 962 6 465 2399; fakhreldin.com), housed in a tasteful 1920s villa, serves formal Syrian cuisine of the highest quality to Jordan's royal and diplomatic upper crust, while Tannoureen in Umm Uthaina (00 962 6 551 5987) is a classy, upscale Lebanese with a long menu, top-notch service, art on the walls and exquisite food. Expect to pay only £15-£20 a head at either.
Big night out
Jordan's weekend is Friday and Saturday, which means Thursday is the big night out. Forget about Saudi-style restrictions: alcohol is legal and there are plenty of clubs and DJ bars. Books@Café on Mango Street (00 962 6 465 0457) is a mainstay of Amman's nightlife - a relaxed, Californian-style hangout, with upper-floor terraces that are perfect for long evenings sipping cocktails and puffing on 'hubbly-bubbly' water-pipes.
Escape the city
An hour north are the Roman ruins of Jerash, complete with live chariot races and gladiator shows (jerashchariots.com); the same distance west lies the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth and a great spot for a float at sunset; while the ancient city of Petra lies about three hours south.
Getting there
Bmi (0870 607 0555; flybmi.com) flies direct from Heathrow in five hours or under, with return fares from £430, or try Royal Jordanian (0871 911 2112; rj.com). Visas are issued on arrival (£7). Find city information at visitjordan.com.
· Matthew Teller is author of the Rough Guide to Jordan (£13.99; roughguides.com).
