Some Amsterdammers may still giggle when De Baarsjes gets mentioned as an up-and-coming neighbourhood. Even though it's just a 10-minute bike ride from the centre, it has a reputation for being an edgy spot, where youths hang out around the Mercatorplein square.
De Baarsjes is one of the city's most multicultural 'hoods with 126 different nationalities, dominated by Surinamese, Turkish and Moroccan families. It's the ultimate place to go for quality cheap ethnic food. Pera (Jan Evertsenstraat 86, 0031 20-683 4311) is an excellent Turkish grill, while Farasa (Jan van Galenstraat 287, +20-612 6650) has one of the best Surinamese roti in the city.
However, the scene is changing, thanks to a growth of style-conscious mid-range restaurants and bars set up to cater for the increasing number of students and creatives who have been attracted by the area's cheap rents and stash of one-bedroom apartments.
While much of the area is generic pre-war housing, it has some architectural gems. The quarter between the canal Admiralengracht and the Surinameplein is part of the 1920s idealistic urban expansion Plan West, which combined social housing with Gaudí-esque brickwork, best exemplified in the De Sieraad, Mercatorplein, and the nearby church Jeruzulumkerk (Jan Maijenstraat 14, jeruzalem-kerk.nl).
The neighbourhood made global headlines in 2006 when the local council put up signs prohibiting the smoking of marijuana in public in and around Mercatorplein. It had hoped they would reduce the number of loitering youths and petty crime, but the only resulting change in crime rates was an increase in stealing - of the signs. The depiction of two fingers holding a joint with marijuana leaves spiralling up in a cloud of smoke was the perfect bedroom wall decoration. To combat the problem, the district officials offered the iconic signs for sale at €90 each (the fine for stealing one was €80).
Mercatorplein
The internationally renowned architect HP Berlage was responsible for this square, finished in 1927. Its rocketing corner towers were removed in 1961 due to safety issues, then after decades of going downhill, the square was renovated in 1998 and the towers rebuilt.
Witte de Withstraat
The term "gallery strip" does not immediately pop into mind as one wanders this nondescript street, but that is what it's becoming. Pioneers Illuseum (no 120, illuseum.com) were derided as freaks when they first set up their space here before the area got cool, and they keep that tradition alive with left-field art exhibitions and events that usually include a levitating magician or two. In sharp contrast, HoofdzaakHoeden (no 168, hoofdzaakhoeden.nl) sells hats and the limited-edition couture of the label ArtWear. Keep your eyes peeled for the outlet of "art co-op" Zoete Broodjes (no 89, zoete-broodjes.nl) which organises regular exhibitions and projects.
Club 8
Probably the biggest magnet for people from outside the district, this nightclub features an alternative and varied programe of DJs, live bands and video screenings, which flirt with the alternative side of things - from the boogie-tastic Disco Exota to the more snotty attitude of club night Fuck Yeah. Plush retro leather couches bring quality to the chill-out zone. The club is also worth a daytime trip for the massive pool hall downstairs.
Admiraal de Ruyterweg 56B, (+20-685 1703, club-8.nl).
Con-Fusion
At this hip restaurant you can choose between the lounge-style interior and the lovely canal-side terrace where you can slump in old-fashioned deck-chairs. Locals accuse Con-Fusion of naming itself after the service - but at least the staff are friendly when you finally have their attention. The Turkish bread sandwiches are super cheap but super filling.
Postjesweg 7, (+20-616 2122, restaurantconfusion.nl).
Het Sieraad
Once a trade college for crafts people, mostly jewellers, and later squatted, De Sieraad was renovated and reopened last year to house a musical academy, smaller creative companies and artist studios.
Postjesweg 1, (het-sieraad.nl).
Edel
Situated in Het Sieraad, café-restaurant Edel has a fantastic waterside terrace with picnic tables shaded by huge elm trees, and is best enjoyed at lunch with a sandwich or a salad. Dinner features French-Mediterranean cooking such as rack of lamb with polenta fries. From 11pm on Thursdays through Saturdays, DJs play music to match its loungey interior.
Postjesweg 1, (+20-799 5000, edelamsterdam.nl).
Meneer de Wit
Across from Het Sieraad, Meneer de Wit is both a gallery and a studio space for artists and creative companies, including the much acclaimed handbag design collective Hardtroze (hardtroze .nl). Its managers are also active in organising community art projects, such as creating a white line (dewittelijn.nl) that dissected the neighbourhood, running up walls, over buildings, through backyards and across canals. Earlier this summer they helped organised a graffiti event (mikosa.net) involving local youngsters and international names including the Boghe, Morcky, Zedz and the London Police.
Postjesweg 2, (meneerdewit.com).
