Devonshire Arms
Beeley
A hardy village of thick limestone walls, Beeley is part of the magnificent Chatsworth Estate down the road. The Devonshire Arms exudes a reassuring solidity and has been central to the village since 1747, providing sustenance to estate workers, walkers and visitors alike. It's set to do the same for a good few years yet after a very neat refurbishment overseen by the Duke and Duchess themselves. Four menus cover everything from standard-issue bar snacks to contemporary offerings in the adjoining brasserie.
Washed down with a pint of Timothy Taylor's Landlord, the fillet of locally-reared Pursgloves beef is a particular standout with Welsh rarebit, piccalilli and raspberry vinegar adding extra spike. There's nothing particularly cutting edge here but a clutch of well-handled basics includes a trio of Hancocks sausages with hearty gravy and mash and what was arguably the best chocolate brownie ever.
John Mitchell
· Nr Matlock, Derbyshire (Tel: 01629-733259) three courses £23
The Real Eating Company
Lewes
It must take some nerve to open on the same street as the excellent Bill's cafe and produce store, which is a mere stone's throw away, but this deli-cum-restaurant just about holds its own. The formula here is the same that made the original site in Hove such a success story with ex-Petrus head chef Darren Velvick calling the shots in the kitchen with well-made simple dishes aided by locally sourced ingredients.
Mushrooms on toasted brioche with melted Montgomery cheese passes muster, but is knocked for six by a subtle and freshly flavoured garlic and pea risotto. Mains couldn't be more familiar and while the warmed chicken breast salad with honey and mustard mayonnaise lacks gusto, the perfectly pink poached salmon with spinach, poached egg and hollandaise delivers on all cylinders.
Earthy desserts, daily specials and a short wine list compliment the menu, keeping the affluent locals content.
Humayun Hussain
· 18 Cliffe High Street (Tel: 01273-402650) price per head £25
Cafe 21 At Fenwick
Newcastle Upon Tyne
Legendary Newcastle restaurateur Terry Laybourne has opened an offshoot of his Cafe 21 bistro, Cafe 21 at Fenwick, which looks set to become as much a destination daytime restaurant as a shoppers pit-stop.
A modern European-style interior cleverly uses mirrored columns to draw attention away from the location in the corner of the first floor, just past the underwear department. The menu spans breakfast of hot ricotta pancakes, fresh bananas and honeycomb butter, while the à la carte offers delicious local Craster kipper or - in a nod to Thai-born head chef Parichat Simsri-Kirby - stir fried salt and pepper prawns with Asian greens.
Carina Simon
· 39 Northumberland Street (Tel: 0191-260 3373) three-course lunch £13.50; afternoon tea £10.50
