Young love and a book have helped turn the area around Ponte Milvio, north of the city centre, into Rome's freshest night spot. In 2006, Federico Moccia, published Ho Voglia di Te (I Want You), a story of passionate romance in which two young Romans swear eternal love by fastening a padlock to a lamppost on the Milvian bridge before casting the key into the Tiber.

The practice already existed in the area, but after the book appeared, locks were fastened to lampposts by the hundred, and when the book was made into a film, things really got out of control. Two lampposts were bent to near-collapse by the sheer weight of the hardware attached to them and the Rome council, in an indulgent move, supplied posts with chains to carry the burden.

The numbers were so high that a website (lucchettipontemilvio.com) was launched allowing users to post a virtual padlock as an alternative, but most lovers prefer the real-life version.

Flocks of tender-hearted couples have boosted a scene that was already beginning to take shape and now rivals that of the more established bar district of Testaccio.

"When I first came to work here seven years ago, there was nothing but a watermelon seller on the square," says Michele Fio, who owns Peccati di Gola, a tiny, beamed wine bar-cum-delicatessen in Via Flaminia Vecchia. "But from 2003 on, it has gone boom!"

The bridge and neighbouring district offer an alluring mix of leafy settings, lively bars, restaurants both traditional and modern, as well as the odd late-night shop. A once popular gay area, Ponte Milvio now draws a heterogeneous crowd, from teenies to sophisticated thirtysomethings - but only a tiny minority of tourists. Foreign voices actually draw glances, which means you are either out of your comfort zone or happy to be breaking new ground.

Ponte Milvio

The first stone bridge was built at the end of the 2nd century and its three central arches are still there. The Milvian bridge was the scene of a decisive early victory for the Emperor Constantine. As night advances, it fills with musicians, kebab vendors, jewellery stalls and (of course) padlock sellers. Hussein, from Bangladesh, offers various models at €2-€5 each and sells five or six a night. Look out for views of the Olympic stadium in one direction and the Fascist-era Ponte Flaminio in the other.

ReRé bar

At what point does kitsch becomes chic? This appears to be the question the ReRé bar's interior decorators set about trying to resolve as they amassed crimson flock wallpaper, gilded wall lamps and fake leopard- and zebra-skin sofas. The overall effect is of a cheery fin-de-siècle brothel. The ReRé does a modest trade in aperitivi, but really comes into its own catering to the after-dinner drinks crowd.

· Via Flaminia Vecchia, 475 (0039 06 3340 483, rere.it)

Met Bar

Unquestionably the district's coolest bar-restaurant. Visitors are met at the gate by an unsmiling security guard. The outdoor restaurant and bar are in the courtyard of a villa adorned with busts of famous Italians. Decor is oh-so-tasteful beiges, browns and reds. The Met Bar attracts an assertively fashionable crowd, ranging from the stylish to the ludicrous. The aperitivi are excellent, as are the cocktails. And the restaurant offers a wide range of stylish fare, including sushi.

· Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, 34 (+06 3322 1237, met-roma.it)

Il Chioschetto

The definitive Ponte Milvio bar, and arguably the prettiest, sits by the northern end of the bridge. Staff operate from a building like a cross between a beach shack and a park keeper's hut, serving drinks to tables scattered under the trees outside. There is a narrow terrace looking over the river and the bridge. Drinks are cheap and the service cheery, but slapdash. Expect heaving crowds at aperitivo hour and barely any standing room by 3am, with a relaxed, older crowd in between.

· Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, 44 (+06 3333 461)

Amoroma

A new bar on the scene, Amoroma has a stylish white-dominated interior and, across the pavement, an assortment of tables under cover. With its changing coloured lights it generates a club-like feel at night. Yet it is open from early morning, does good breakfasts and offers a generous variety of titbits to accompany its aperitivi.

· Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, 5 (+06 9727 4015)

La Pallotta

La Pallotta has been serving authentic Roman cooking since 1830. In summer, the restaurant spills out into a courtyard where guests dine under the trees. The whole place buzzes with interaction between waiters and customers against a background of running, shouting Italian children. They do pizzas too. Food is good, if not exceptional. The prices are reasonable. The experience is memorable. And it has an adjoining cafe and bookshop.

· Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, 22 (+06 3334 245)

Daruma Sushi

For a perfect snack to eat on the bridge at sunset, drop by Daruma Sushi and make off with a takeaway. They have various sizes and assortments of sushi and sashimi, plus Japanese groceries. There are also a few tables outside where you can eat.

· Via Flaminia Vecchia, 464/B (+633 36 818, darumasushi.com)