Leek, tarragon and mushroom risotto

For 2
3 small tender leeks
50g butter
225g assorted small mushrooms, wild or cultivated, wiped
2 tbsps chopped tarragon
275g arborio rice
1 litre hot chicken or vegetable stock
a large knob of butter
2 tbsps coarsely chopped parsley

This risotto can be made with any funghi - even little white button mushrooms are good cooked in this way. Cut the leeks, discarding the very dark green bits, into small rings about 1cm thick. Wash them thoroughly in a colander under running water to remove any grit or sand. Cook them in the butter over a moderate heat for about 7-8 minutes, until they soften and become translucent. They should not colour.

Cut the mushrooms into bite-sized pieces. Add them to the leeks and stir to coat them in butter. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the tarragon and the rice. Stir to coat the rice with the butter and then pour on a ladleful of hot stock. Cook until the rice has absorbed the stock and then add more hot stock, stirring from time to time. If you run out of stock and the rice is still not tender, carry on with water. When the rice has taken up all the stock stir in butter, season with salt and parsley.

Spicy fridge rice

For 2
1 plump clove of garlic, chopped
small knob of fresh root ginger, peeled and shredded
2 tbsps groundnut oil
1 tsp hot chilli powder
1 tsp mustard seeds
¼ tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp hot chilli powder
225g cooked long-grain rice

Some intelligence called for here. If you have some cooked rice in the fridge you may well have other good things in there too. What follows is a basic spicy rice that will act as a base to which you can add leftovers to produce a quick, not to say frugal supper. Leftovers is a difficult word, rather like offal. But the alternatives are even worse, as in 'variety meats'. Whatever you call them they must be in good condition; crisp cooked greens, diced chicken or perhaps a casserole or curry.

Fry the garlic and ginger in the oil in a wok or frying-pan. Add the mustard seeds, and when they start to pop add the turmeric, chilli and rice. Stir. Cook for 2 minutes or until the rice is hot, then stir in any of the following: diced cooked chicken, stir-fried for 2 minutes in a little oil; cooked greens (spinach is best), chopped roughly, added with the spices and before the rice; mushrooms, again added before the rice and cooked for 2 minutes; leftover ratatouille, or meat or chicken casserole, or even curry - warm it slowly, and then bring to the boil; as it starts to boil stir in the spiced rice, and eat hot. Sunday's roast torn into bite-sized pieces - stir-fry till hot and then add any gravy or pan juices.

Fragrant brown basmati rice

For 4 as an accompaniment
225g brown
basmati rice
1 tbsp groundnut oil
3 whole cloves
2 bay leaves
juice of half a lemon
half tsp ground turmeric
half stick of cinnamon
8 green cardamom pods
salt
25g butter

Put the rice in a deep pan and pour in enough water to cover the rice by about 2.5cm. Boil hard over a high heat for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the oil in a saucepan and fry the spices and bay leaves for 2 minutes till fragrant. Pour the rice into a sieve over the sink. Tip the rice into the pan containing the spices, cover with fresh water, salt, and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat, cover and cook slowly for 15 minutes until the rice has absorbed all the water. Turn off heat and allow the rice to stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Add the lemon juice and the butter and fluff the grains up with a fork. Fish out the bay leaves. Serve.

The 20-minute rice pudding

For 4
8 heaped tablespoons arborio or pudding rice
300ml milk
300ml double cream
a vanilla pod, split in half lengthways or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
6 tbsps water
large knob of butter
4 tbsps caster sugar

Put the rice in a medium-sized, heavy-based pan, then pour in the milk, cream, vanilla pod or extract and water. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, then turn down the flame until the milk is bubbling gently. Let it cook for 15-20 minutes. Add the butter, no more than an ounce, whip out the vanilla pod, and stir in the sugar. When the sugar has dissolved, the pudding is ready.

Basil-scented vegetable rice

For 2, as a light supper dish
3 tbsps groundnut oil
2 cloves of garlic, sliced
2 small hot red chilli peppers, seeded and finely chopped
2 shallots, chopped
100g tiny button mushrooms
100g broccoli, snapped into small florets
a handful of green beans, stalks removed and sliced into 5cm lengths
225g cooked long-grain rice
1 tsp sugar
2 tbsps light soy sauce
12 large basil leaves

This is a purely vegetable version of Khao Phat, the Thai fried rice that normally contains both pork and shellfish, the quantity of chillies is up to you. Heat the oil in a hot wok till a little smoke rises, add the garlic and chillies, and fry till the garlic is dark golden. Add the shallots, fry for 1 minute, and then add the mushrooms and broccoli. Fry for 2 minutes until the greens are bright and starting to soften. Add the beans, fry for 1 minute, and then stir in the cooked rice, sugar and soy. Toss gently and stir while the rice heats and the vegetables cook, about 3-4 minutes. Tear the basil leaves into shreds and scatter them over the rice. Eat hot.

The wine list

With the leek, tarragon and mushroom risotto

2000 Wild Cat Catarratto, Firriato (£3.89, Waitrose)
A rich, spicy, almondy, organic Italian white that smells like a walk along a Mediterranean shore.

Basil scented vegetable rice

2000 Co-op Chilean Chardonnay Reserve (£5.49, the Co-op)
The sort of thing that Chile does better than virtually anyone, this is a bright, modern, citrus fruit scented Chardonnay with tropical undertones, really good weight on the palate and well-judged oak.

Spicy fridge rice

2000 La Nature Argentine TorrontÀs (£4.49, Morrisons)
At its best, Argentina's adopted white grape makes fragrant, heady wines. This spicy organic example is true to type, with summery, grape and orange peel aromas and zesty, crisp acidity.

20-minute rice pudding

1999 ChÀteau Haut-Bergeron, Sauternes (£9.97 per half, Asda)
A predominantly Semillon based sticky that's showing particularly well at the moment, this is honeyed and intense, with sweet oak and notes of barley sugar and crÀme caramel.

Fragrant brown basmati rice

2000 La Baume Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays d'Oc (£4.99, Tesco)
The whites from this Australian owned property in the south of France have got better and better in recent years. This is a ripe, grapefruit and gooseberry-style Sauvignon with plenty of flavour.

Tim Atkin