David Williams 

The 10 best Christmas whiskies

A good whisky calms the most frazzled festive nerves, says David Williams
  
  

Whisky composite
L-R Baille Nicol Jarvie Blended Scotch Whisky, Highland Park 12 Year Old Island Single Malt Whisky, The Glenrothes 1998 Vintage Speyside Single Malt Scotch and Caol Ila 12 Year Old Unpeated. Photograph: Alicia Canter for the Observer Photograph: Alicia Canter/Observer

Is there a more appropriate drink for Christmas night than a good whisky? Not for me there isn't. This is, after all, a spirit that only really comes into its own in the dead of winter. At its best, there's something about the smoky, oaky flavours that demands a cosy chair; something about its mellow, soothing effects that, more than any other drink, promotes late-night conversation and the exchange of anecdotes. It's a drink that places a fuzzy full stop at the end of a day of frenetic, sometimes gaudy activity, a drink to calm the nerves of even the most belligerent of Scrooges. Here are 10 of my favourites.

Bailie Nicol Jarvie Blended Scotch Whisky

(£15 to £18 Morrisons, Oddbins, Waitrose)

From the Glenmorangie stable, this blend of malt and grain from Highland, Speyside and Islay is a cut above your average mainstream blends, and well worth the extra few quid premium. Subtle, smooth, sweet and aromatic, it's a complex paean to the noble art of blending.

Taste the Difference Single Malt Highland Whisky

40% ABV (£18.99, Sainsbury's)

Sainsbury's Taste the Difference is consistently the best posh supermarket own-label drinks range, and this authentic Highland single malt is no exception to the overall quality. It has rich vanilla fudge and spicy dried fruit on the nose and palate, and finishes with a delicate waft of smoke. A good-value standby malt currently sourced from Iain McLeod Distillers, the owners of the Glengoyne distillery.

Bruichladdich Rocks Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky

46% ABV (£22.99, Asda, Morrisons, Sainsbury's)

Revived by a group of whisky-loving investors at the turn of the millennium, the prolific Bruichladdich distillery continues to go from strength to strength, with a rather bewildering array of small-scale releases. One of their more accessible recent launches, this relatively inexpensive, crowd-pleasing blend of different vintages is sweet, fruity and creamy with a whisper of Islay iodine.

Highland Park 12 Year Old Island Single Malt Whisky

40% ABV (£28.74, Asda, Morrisons, Sainsbury's, Tesco)

A genuine classic that never disappoints, Highland Park is a crowd-pleasing whisky of real character and class from Orkney. On the nose it has heather, honeysuckle and barley sugar, while the palate is warming and rich, with an intense, lingering finish.

Linkwood 12-Year-Old Speyside Single Malt Whisky

43% ABV (£32.60, Waitrose)

Delicate, intricate and aromatic, Linkwood is a key ingredient in many a more famous blend, and only a relatively small part of the production gets sold in its own right. I tend to think of it as a kind of Mosel riesling of malts, with a citrus and floral character that also makes it a perfect after-lunch dram.

Springbank 12 Year Old Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky

54.6% ABV (£39.95, Royal Mile Whiskies)

The Springbank distillery in Campbeltown is a doggedly traditional, family-run distillery (it claims to be the oldest family-owned independent Scotch whisky producer) and this new cask-strength addition to the range is a fine tribute to their methods. A viscous mix of dark toffee verging on molasses and orange zest, it's a thoroughly hedonistic digestif at a very good price.

The Glenrothes 1998 Vintage Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

43% ABV (£40, Berry Bros & Rudd)

Recently acquired by posh St James's Street independent wine merchant Berry Bros & Rudd, the Glenrothes makes refined, classic Speyside malts that sit very comfortably alongside the new owners' fine wine portfolio. The latest release, from casks laid down in 1998, is a lovely, graceful drink, with honeycomb, citrus and spice.

Lagavulin 16 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch

(£43.99, Oddbins)

One for those who like their whiskies to come with a blast of full-on peat smoke, Lagavulin is the quintessential Islay malt. The palate is dry and intense, with a distinctive saline twang and notes of dark toffee and wood-smoke – it's powerful, but by no means one-dimensional.

Compass Box Hedonism Blended Grain Whisky

(£48.95, thewhiskyexchange.com; £52.95 Milroy's of Soho, ; £54.95, royalmilewhiskies.com)

A pioneering whisky from the boutique blender Compass Box that proved that grain whiskies, so often overshadowed by malts, can produce stunning whiskies in their own right. The current release is clean, pure and creamy-smooth with a delicate coconut finish.

Nikka Yoichi 10 Year Old Japanese Whisky

(£50 to £60, Milroy's of Soho, milroys.co.uk; thedrinkshop.com; thewhiskyexchange.com)

Like English sparkling wine, Japanese whisky has come a long way in the past couple of decades, and the best examples are now afforded the same respect as their Scottish inspiration. This is an excellent introduction: from Hokkaido in the north of Japan, it is perfectly poised and mellow, mixing autumnal fruits, a touch of smoke and vanilla fudge.

 

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