John Hind 

Interview: Dervla Kirwan

The voice of the Marks and Spencer 'not just food' adverts on romantic dinners and the importance of Sunday lunch
  
  

Dervla Kirwan at Mudchute farm
Dervla Kirwan at Mudchute farm, London, April 2010. All cakes by choccywoccydoodah except giant cupcakes. Photograph: Suki Dhanda Photograph: Suki Dhanda

When I went along to audition for the job of the voice on M&S's "...Not Just Food" ads, I had terrible flu and depression, was feeling crap about everything, but when I read "tossed lovingly" and saw chocolate flow erotically over sponge, I burst out laughing. For the take which made them choose me, I had my eyes closed and was being very filthy. I wish I had all the recordings. I remember one in which I went off into a rant, asking: "Oh come on, who enjoys wine responsibly?"

When I was six we visited aunts on a farm in the [Irish] countryside. And in the middle of the dinner table was a huge cow's tongue. The sheer length! It was repulsive. I thought: "Sweet Jesus, must we eat this?" It brutalised me.

When I first dated my husband [actor Rupert Penry-Jones] he cooked a Valentine's meal at his apartment – with homemade blinis, caviar, salmon, champagne. Any old sod can buy chocs and flowers. But this was incredibly sweet, personal, private – and a week early. I thought: "That's it, I'll have a piece of him."

I'd never scan the starters and main courses on a menu in a restaurant as a child. I'd want a dessert for starter, for main course and for dessert. I've still got a fetish about them because they're so immediately comforting, yet forbidden, in this business where appearance is so important. Really I should be about 17 stone.

I love my juicer. I bring it on to film sets with a bag of fresh fruit and away I go. I mix in an avocado too, which sounds disgusting but isn't. Five hours' energy it gives me. My juicer goes everywhere. It's flown all over the world.

I was a waitress at a really rundown Italian restaurant in Dublin, for about a week, at 16. I thought it was going to be romantic – overhearing affairs and watching first-time couples all loved up. But instead I was just running about constantly.

I cocked up a beautiful lasagne for a dinner party while I was heavily pregnant. It looked perfect as I served it, with a lovely golden crispy top. But it was ice-cold inside. I'd switched the grill on instead of the oven. And I wept. I wept terribly. But I enjoyed pregnancy – it gave me the chance to eat whatever I wanted.

My mother was a woman of the 50s who had a family in the 70s while finding her political and feminist voice. She could make marvellous three-course meals after teaching all day but hated it. Because of that legacy, it took me a long time to realise the delights of the family table. My mother-in-law, who's an actress, showed me how crucial Sunday's meal is.

I ate ostrich. I'm not very proud of it. I was going through a very experimental period and probably during foot and mouth. It was exquisite, but I felt very guilty. I've never stolen food though. Well, not outside the home. But I've nicked my kids' Easter eggs from the larder. All four of them.

 

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