My favourite table

Fashion designer Pearl Lowe, 36, with her daughter Daisy, 18, at Odette's
  
  


I was only 19 when I had Daisy. I forced myself to learn how to cook. We've been making cakes together since Daisy was two. We do a good lemon drizzle, and Victoria sponges and brownies, and once we even made honeycomb. I had to buy a special thermometer to burn it to just the right temperature. Daisy never really used to eat real food as a child - she had a serious sweet tooth. Daisy still lives in Primrose Hill, but the rest of our family moved to Hampshire a few years ago. I come up to London a lot though, and we have tea, or lunch, or breakfast. We do a lot of eating. The food at Odette's is exceptional, and we used to live just over the road. I had my 21st birthday here and I still just love it.

I enjoy cooking at home. I used to pore over Delia Smith recipe books, and now I'm really good at following Nigella and Jamie Oliver recipes then adding my own things. Like, I used to put cornflakes on things, though I screwed a meal up with Frosties once.

Some friends came round for a Sunday roast the other day, and my partner Danny (Goffey, drummer in Supergrass) stepped in. He had read that cooking with goose fat was a good idea but, instead of just brushing the potatoes with it, he cooked everything in a pan's worth of fat. Daisy threw up five times while she was eating it.

Usually we all cook together, chucking everything into a curry, but in the kitchen Danny adds salt behind my back, and it always ends in a row. I listen to my positive-thinking tapes in the kitchen. 'Use your vibrations,' they say; 'Go up the emotional scale...'; while Daisy looks after my youngest, Betty, who's two, and a bit of a pig. She'll wake up in the morning and say, 'Bacon?' She's the youngest of four. So meals are always fun.

One of my favourite foods is sushi, because it reminds me of my 11-year-old son Alfie when he was little. He's always had sophisticated tastes and, even at two, he loved caviar. People used to point at him in sushi bars. When I go to London, Frankie, who's eight, will scream, 'I want some Lego,' but Alfie will say, 'Please can you pick me up some caviar?' Like Daisy, I used to model, but I was never the right size because I loved food too much. There was always the choice of giving up the food I loved and not being happy or staying just the way I was. Sometimes we wonder whether Daisy should just get skinny for a certain amount of time and make a killing and leave the business altogether, but then again, she's doing pretty well as she is. She gave up drinking for a month, which made her lose a lot of weight, and I wouldn't want her to get any skinnier.

Before we moved to the country I still felt like a teenager, and now I feel my age, in a good way. I've got my priorities in order. It's kids first, then work, whereas before it was parties all the way. When we decided to move out of London, Daisy wasn't happy, but now she spends every second she can in the country. She and I have never got on better. I've changed my life recently. When I moved to the country I even gave up meat, because I'd go for dinner at someone's house and they'd point to a lamb in the garden and tell you that it was going to be on your plate next week. The idea of eating that sweet little thing? It made me shudder.

Odettes's, 130 Regents Park Road, London NW1, 020 7586 8569

History

Vince Power, founder of the Mean Fiddler Music Group, took over Primrose Hill's favourite restaurant last year, bringing in Welsh chef Bryn Williams, a finalist on the BBC TV series The Great British Menu.

Popular dishes

Ballotine of pig's head, crispy black pudding, onion-and-apple purée with cider dressing, £13; pan-fried, line-caught turbot, braised oxtail and cockles, £23; warm Valrhona chocolate fondant, coconut-ice cream, coconut espuma, £8; set menu £35 for two courses, or £40 for three

Who eats there

Eva Green, Bill Nighy, Tilda Swinton, Liam Gallagher, Rhys Ifans

Opens

Tuesday - Saturday, 12pm to 1am

 

Leave a Comment

Required fields are marked *

*

*