Italian cuisine is world-renowned for its use of superb seasonal ingredients and simple cooking methods. Apart from in the home, nowhere is this more apparent than in the cooking of Italy's local restaurants, the trattorias. In fact, the cooking in the best trattorias can be said to be as good as that in the home, for most are family run.

Trattoria cooking is home cooking at its best. Often the chefs or owners are determined to have you appreciate their skills or local dishes to the greatest extent. The Slow Food movement, based in the north of Italy, has recently highlighted the unique position of trattorias in Italian life, awarding symbols for excellence. But whether given such accolades or not, most trattorias are the backbone of Italian eating: somewhere you can go for lunch every day and be assured of getting something different, something traditional, something reasonable in price and something really well cooked. The recipes here - some from family-run trattorias I know or have found, some from friends' families and some of my own - reflect that glorious creativity.

Sausages with lentils

serves 6

This is a perfect New Year's Eve dish, as lentils are believed to bring money when eaten at the beginning of the year. Mostarda di Cremona, a candied fruit chutney in mustard syrup, is available in most Italian delis.

300g dried green Italian small lentils (those from Castelluccio are best)

2 tbs olive oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 carrot, peeled and diced

1 celery stalk, chopped

250g diced pancetta

300ml beef broth

1 bouquet garni (2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs rosemary, 3 sprigs thyme, 3 sprigs parsley)

6 fresh Italian sweet sausages

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 tbs mostarda di Cremona or other mixed fruit chutney with mustard seeds, coarsely chopped

Soak the lentils for 30 minutes in water to cover. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, and saute the onion over a medium heat until lightly golden. Add the carrot, celery and pancetta and cook for a few minutes until golden brown. Drain the lentils, add to the pan and saute for 2 minutes. Add 250ml of the beef froth and the bouquet garni, cover and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 1? hours. Do keep a check on the liquid, adding more broth if necessary.

Heat a grill pan. Butterfly the sausages by slicing them lengthways, but not quite through, and grill on both sides until browned, crisp and cooked.

Season the lentils and serve with the grilled sausages and 1 tbs of candied fruit chutney in its syrup.

Ricotta gnocchi
This recipe is from my village, and has many variations and stories attached to it. It is served in virtually every trattoria along the Amalfi coast.
serves 4
300g ricotta cheese
85g Italian '00' plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
2 large egg yolks
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
a little freshly grated nutmeg
to cook and serve
200g tasty cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tsp peperoncino (dried chilli)
2 tbs olive oil
a handful of fresh basil leaves, torn
Parmesan, grated, to taste

Mix all the main ingredients together in a bowl. Knead lightly on a floured surface. Roll into a sausage-shaped log the thickness of your little finger. Cut at an angle to create shapes the length of the first joint of your index finger.

Boil the gnocchi in batches in a large pan of boiling salted water. When they rise to the top of the pan, skim out into a frying pan.

Add the cherry tomatoes, peperoncino and olive oil to the frying pan and saute until the gnocchi are stained with tomato. Serve with torn basil and grated Parmesan.

Rocket with pine nuts and pomegranate

serves 6

2 bunches (approx 300g) rocket leaves (the wild variety is best), washed and dried

125g pine nuts

125g fresh pomegranate seeds

dressing

2 tbs red wine vinegar

1 tsp any mustard (optional)

1 shallot, peeled and minced

2 anchovies, crushed

2 tbs extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and ground black pepper

Put the rocket into a large bowl. Toast the pine nuts under the grill or in a hot frying pan, tossing the pan very regularly to prevent burning. To make the dressing, put the vinegar, mustard (if using), minced shallot and crushed anchovies into a small bowl and whisk together. Add the oil drop by drop. Season with salt and pepper.

Sprinkle the toasted pine nuts and half the pomegranate seeds over the rocket and pour the dressing over the salad. Gently toss. Sprinkle with the remaining pomegranate seeds.

Penne with rocket and tomato sauce

serves 4-6

16 fresh tomatoes, skinned, seeded and diced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

2-3 tbs olive oil

a handful of fresh basil, torn

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

400g penne

16 rocket leaves, cut into strips

115g Parmesan, freshly grated

Combine the tomatoes, garlic, oil and basil in a bowl, then season and allow to rest.

Cook the pasta in rolling boiling salted water until al dente. Drain it, reserving 200ml of the water, and turn the pasta into the bowl with the tomato mixture. Toss well. Sprinkle the top with the rocket and Parmesan. Toss and taste for seasoning. Add a little pasta water if a thinner sauce is desired. Serve with extra freshly grated Parmesan if you like.

Chicken and roasted pepper soup

serves 6

This recipe is based on a dish from the Ristorante Solferino in Tuscany, and it uses what they call 'duchese' olive oil. This is made from olives grown on their own land and pressed locally. It is named after a family member, and is of very high quality. Use the best extra virgin oil you can get.

12 red peppers

10 chicken thighs

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1.5 litres chicken broth, warm

a handful of fresh basil leaves, torn

a handful of fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped

2 tsp fresh marjoram leaves

duchese oil or the best-quality extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Roast the peppers for 25 minutes, then leave to cool. Scrape out the seeds and slice the peppers thinly.
At the same time, cook the chicken thighs. Season them with salt and pepper and roast alongside the peppers for 20 minutes, or until cooked through. Cool.

Discard the chicken skin and bones and shred the meat finely. Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and saute until golden. Add the strips of peppers and the garlic. Add the broth to the peppers along with the chicken shreds and herbs. Adjust the seasoning and simmer the soup for 5 minutes. Ladle into warmed soup bowls and serve with some good oil.

Butternut squash, mozzarella and caramelised garlic risotto with shallots

serves 4

This recipe comes from Geltrude Mitterman of Trattoria Bella Vista in Mendola, Alto Adige. It is family-run, very friendly, and very Austrian/Swiss in its interior and approach to its dishes.

400g butternut squash

olive oil

1 small onion, peeled and diced

55g unsalted butter

200g risotto rice

700ml chicken broth, hot

55g Parmesan, grated

125g buffalo mozzarella, cut into 1cm cubes

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

pesto

1 large bunch fresh basil

3 garlic cloves, peeled

3 tbsp pine nuts, lightly toasted

about 3 tbsp olive oil

3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan

crispy shallots

55g shallots, peeled and finely sliced1

115g plain flour, seasoned vegetable oil for frying

caramelised garlic

16 garlic cloves

200ml chicken broth, hot

25g unsalted butter

First make the pesto. Put the basil, garlic and pine nuts in a food processor with a little salt and pepper. Work to a paste, add enough olive oil to produce a loose-textured puree. Remove from the food processor, pour into a bowl and fold in Parmesan.

Next, make the crispy shallots. Dust the shallots in seasoned flour, shake off any excess and deep-fry in vegetable oil at 160°C (320°F). When they are a light golden brown, remove from the oil using a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Season with a little salt and keep on a warm plate.

To caramelise the garlic, first blanch the garlic in a pan of salted boiling water for about 3 minutes, then peel and transfer to a clean pan. Pour off the water and add the chicken broth and butter. Cook until the garlic is soft and the broth is reduced to a syrup that coats the cloves. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.

Peel and seed the butternut squash, dice into 1cm cubes and fry in a little olive oil until lightly coloured. Transfer to the oven for 10-12 minutes, until the flesh is tender. Meanwhile, gently sweat the diced onion in the butter until the onion is soft. Add the rice to the onion, raise the heat and cook, stirring, until the rice is shiny and translucent. Lower the heat and begin to add the hot broth, a ladleful at a time, wait for it to be absorbed before adding the next ladleful.

Once the rice is cooked to al dente, and of the correct texture, fold in the Parmesan, mozzarella and squash, and cook for 2 minutes more. Season to taste.

Serve immediately on hot plates, drizzle the pesto around the risotto and top with a small pile of crisp shallots and caramelised garlic cloves.

· Trattoria: Italian Food for Family and Friends by Ursula Ferrigno is published by Mitchell Beazley (£20). To order for£17 plus p&p call the Observer book service on 0870 836 0885

The best trattorias

Emilia-Romagna

Osteria di Rubbiara

Via Risaia 2, Location Rubbiara, Nonantola, Modena (00 39 059 549 019)

The family make one of the most prized balsamic vinegars in Italy. Delicious food.

Tuscany

Latte di Luna

via SanCarlo 24, Cortona (00 39 0578 748 606)

Excellent home-made semi-freddo ice cream.

Tre Soldi

via G d'Annunzio 4, Florence (00 39 055 679366)

Amazing food - combines traditional and modern Tuscan cuisine. Booking advisable.

Cibrea

Via de'Macci, Florence (00 39 234 1100)

Half the price of the restaurant next door, but the food comes from the same kitchen, and a favourite with locals.

Umbria

Antica trattoria dell'Orso

18 Via della Misericordia

05018 Orvieto (00 39 763 341 642)

Classic local food, plenty of pork, black truffles in season and wonderful Umbrian olive oil, all against the backdrop of the cathedral next door.

Campania/Naples

Rita Abbagnale at Villa Serena hotel

Castellmare di Stabia (00 39 081 872 6561)

Rita is one of the most respected chefs in Italy and her extraordinary food does much to preserve local traditions.

Da Dora

Via Ferdinand

Palasciano 30 (00 39 081 680 519)

Locals flock here to eat steamed tiny vongole, oysters on ice and the prawns and red mullet barbecued on the wood fired stove.

Piedmont

Trattoria La Luna e i Falo

Canelli, Piedmontese (00 39 0141 831 643)

Ester Carnero rules the kitchen here with an emphasis on fresh local produce (the pumpkin soup is legendary). You can also stay here.

Osteria del Boccondivino

Via Mendicità 14, Bra (00 39 172 425674)

Maria Pagliasso's sublime cooking is at the heart of the Slow Food festival held here.

Milan

Peck

Via Victor Hugo, Milan (00 39 0287 6774)

The food shop Peck is to Milan what Fortnum & Mason is to London and Fauchon to Paris, but they also have a cafe across the way where Antonio Stoppani weaves his magic. Try his classic ossobuco.