Killian Fox 

‘I liked it so much I bought the restaurant’

Morgan Freeman wanted a decent place to eat in his home town; Sebastian Junger needed a quiet bar for a Monday night book club and Norman Cook loved his local Japanese so much he worked in the kitchen. But do other A-list investors really eat in their own gaffs? Killian Fox goes celebrity spotting ...
  
  


Restaurant kitchens are amazing,' says Norman Cook, hovering hungrily over a slab of raw tuna. 'They all have an air of mad panic. I get my kicks pretending to help, watching everyone rush around, crazy. It's like being inside a film.'

Cook, 44, best known as DJ Fatboy Slim, has a stake in New York gastropub the Spotted Pig, and earlier this year relaunched Japanese restaurant Okinami, in the centre of Brighton, overlooking the Royal Pavilion. 'I used to do the odd shift at the Spotted Pig - it was one of the perks of being an investor - but since they got their Michelin star I'm not allowed in the kitchen. Once, in Brighton, Okinami got really busy, so I was thrown in to help. I badly burned my hands, which isn't a good idea when you have to DJ that night.'

First inspired to make music after seeing Donny Osmond on TV, Cook (real name Quentin) has climbed through the charts, first in the Housemartins in the 1980s, then Beats International, and Freakpower, before finding stardom (and love, with wife Zoë Ball) as Fatboy Slim. As well as his split of the restaurants, he also owns a share of Brighton and Hove Albion football club. 'I've certainly learnt some life lessons through all my ventures,' he sighs. 'I've learnt that everything costs four times as much and takes three times as long as you think it will.'

Cook, who lists his passions as 'music, women, football and food, in that order, obviously', learnt to cook when his son, Woody, now seven, was born. 'When I first started,' he says, 'I'd ring up Jamie Oliver in Australia asking, "exactly how much is a glug of oil?" He really got me going. He made me believe I could do it.'

Okinami's chef, Mike Dodd, gazes fondly at Cook. 'He's a much respected icon in Brighton, and he's not like your usual celebrity,' Dodd gushes. 'I mean, I've had Noel Gallagher swearing his face off in the restaurant, and I put him in his place. He came in with an entourage, asking "Where are the f-ing chips?" I said, "In the f-ing kebab shop, mate". He came back sheepishly the next night and had a nice, quiet meal, and it was all OK.'

Cook's tried the whole menu ('my favourite dish is the scallops with garlic butter and wasabi mayonnaise'), so he's moving along to cocktails. Dodd enthuses about their Japanese mojitos and cherry blossom margaritas, with rose tequila and sake. He is in charge of the kitchen, cutting tuna to make it look like crashing waves.

Cook though, is in charge of the music. 'Well, it's the only thing I'm qualified to do,' he smiles. 'I made a whole album of ambient, fairly chilled stuff to play while people are eating - I never released it, just did it for fun - but I love it. I love how it affects the vibe of the restaurant, and then how it affects your eating experience.'

He's now thinking about producing a compilation album 'of Okinami's greatest hits. And I dare say I'll launch it exclusively in the restaurant.'
Eva Wiseman

Okinami (est. May 1995, relaunched 2008)
Owner: Norman Cook

The shtick: It's Japan-by-sea.

Chances of seeing him: Norman 'Fatboy Slim' Cook stops by for sushi, weekly.
What's his involvement? He owns half the restaurant, and contributed his iPod to add atmosphere.

Type of food: Japanese: sushi and Otsumame - Japanese tapas.

Signature dish: Hotate yaki - pan-fried diver-caught king scallops with wasabi mayonnaise: £7.95.

Expensive? Larger dishes from £9.95.

Is it any good? 'The food here is consistently delightful, charming and swift.' Brighton Eating

Who goes there? Norman and Zoe's mates (including Jamie Oliver) are sure to flock.

Can we come for dinner tonight? See you there.

Details: 6 New Road, Brighton, 01273 773777. Seats 100.

The Spotted Pig (est. February 2004)
Owners: Norman Cook, Jay Z, Bono and Michael Stipe

The shtick: New York's first official gastropub, it's cheffed by April Bloomfield (of River Cafe fame). They've held on to their Michelin star for three years running.

Chances of seeing them: High. Jay Z and his wife Beyonce were spotted here five nights running last November, and Fatboy Slim pops by whenever he's in town.

What's their involvement? They supply the cash and the cred.

Type of food: British and Italian: homemade faggots with pig's ear, buffalo mozzarello.

Signature dish: Ricotta gnudi with brown butter and sage: $15.

Expensive? Mains from $14.

Is it any good? 'Two hours might be an acceptable wait for the Pig's fantastic gnudi.' New York Times

Who goes there? Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin, Kate Hudson, Sarah Jessica Parker, Clive Owen, Liv Tyler, and Matt Damon. Beastie Boy Mike Diamond had his birthday party here recently.

Can we come for dinner tonight? Sure! But expect a two-hour wait.

In their own words: When it closed for refurbishment, Jay Z was quoted as saying 'my friends and I just didn't know what to do!'

Details: 314 West 11th Street, New York, 001 212 620 0393. Seats 100.

Madidi (est. January 2001)
Owner: Morgan Freeman

The shtick: After setting up a music club in Mississippi's rundown blues capital, Clarksdale, Freeman and his lawyer Bill Luckett decided the town needed a decent place to eat.

Chances of seeing him: Whenever the actor flies himself in, he's here or at his Ground Zero Blues Club.
What's his involvement? He helped establish the menu and the wine list, and selected the artwork.

Type of food: Crawfish chowder, ribs, tuna nigiri.

Signature dish: Crispy fried pork chop with buttermilk cornbread and collard greens, $27.

Expensive? Mains $23-38.

Is it any good? 'Open a place like Madidi's in New York or San Francisco, or London or Barcelona, and immediately it would be propelled into the top tier of city eating establishments.' - John Carlin, Observer Food Monthly

Who goes there? Elvis Costello, Ashley Judd, Willie Nelson and blues legend Taj Mahal.

Can we come for dinner tonight? Reservations essential.

In his own words: 'I just wanted a good place to come and eat when I came on my visits here.'

Details: 164 Delta Ave, Clarksdale, Ms, 001 662 627 7770. Seats 72.

Dressing Room (est. October 2006)
Owner: Paul Newman

The shtick: Veteran actor Newman uses profits from his organic restaurant to support the Westport Playhouse theatre next door.

Chances of seeing him: High. Newman lives nearby.
What's his involvement? As 'director of opinions', Newman has overseen everything from the colour on the walls to the way the pickles are sliced in his signature burger. He also set up a local farmers' market in the car park.

Type of food: Wholesome New England salads, clams, meatloaf.

Signature dish: PL Newman burger grilled over a wood fire with hand-cut fries, noble Amish cheddar, house-cured bacon, sliced onion, heirloom tomatoes: $25.

Expensive? Mains $25-34.

Is it any good? 'Dressing Room is off to a flying start and what promises to be an extended run.' New York Times

Who goes there? Harvey Weinstein, Billy Crystal, Gene Wilder, Mel Brooks, Al Pacino.

Can we come for dinner tonight? No can do. Book two weeks ahead for Friday nights and three to four weeks for Saturdays.

In his own words: 'Come by and grab some real homegrown, neighborhood "chow".'

Details: 27 Powers Court, Westport, Ct, 001 203 226 1114. Seats 118.

Tribeca Grill (est. 1990)
Owner: Robert De Niro

The shtick: The first of many forays into the restaurant business by Bobby D, this well-regarded downtown Manhattan fixture includes Sean Penn, Christopher Walken and Bill Murray as investors.

Chances of seeing him: Not bad. His film company, Tribeca Films, has an office upstairs.
What's his involvement? He set it up with big-time restaurateur Drew Nieporent (with whom he also owns Nobu, Ago and others), and his pop's paintings are on the walls, but his approach is largely hands-off.

Type of food: Robust new American cuisine: crabcake, venison, strip steak.

Signature dish: Grilled Long Island duck breast, duck confit, mustard greens, shiitakes and cashews: $29.

Expensive? Mains $21-39.

Is it any good? 'A celebrity-owned restaurant where the food actually stars.' New York Times

Who goes there? Sharon Stone, Tom Cruise, Paul McCartney.

Can we come for dinner tonight? 'We'll do our best to fit you in.'

In his own words: Mr De Niro doesn't discuss his business ventures.

Details: 375 Greenwich St, New York, 001 212 941 3900. Seats 120.

11 The Quay (est. August 2004)
Owner: Damien Hirst

The shtick:When Pharmacy kicked the bucket, Hirst switched his attentions to Ilfracombe, a sleepy North Devon town crying out for their local inn to be turned into a swanky bar/restaurant.

Chances of seeing him: He lives nearby and is a regular.
What's his involvement? Hirst owns the building, which doubles up as a handy repository for any pill boxes and butterfly pieces. Oh, and he designed the wallpaper.

Type of food: Modern European 'with a local twist': crab, scallops, partridge. Nothing pickled.

Signature dish: Lobster: £24.

Expensive? Mains £16.95-30.

it any good? '[The Quay] is like a glistening pearl in a muddy Devon oyster.' Independent

Who goes there? Damon Albarn, David Bailey and Keith Allen.

Can we come for dinner tonight? Why not? Booking isn't absolutely necessary.

In his own words: 'I want to do another restaurant down here in Devon because they're just f***ing beautiful things.'

Details: 11 The Quay, Ilfracombe, Devon, 01271 868090. Seats 30.

Cafe Zoetrope (est. 1998)
Owner: Francis Ford Coppola

The shtick: The godfather of celebrity proprietors, Coppola has a Tokyo restaurant, resorts in Belize, a winery, and four eateries in California, including this cafe.

Chances of seeing him: He visits whenever he's in town
What's his involvement? He monitors every detail, from design and lighting to the way basil is torn onto particular dishes.

Type of food: Southern Italian: pizza, pasta, salads.

Signature dish: Spaghetti and Meatballs - FFC's beef, pork and veal meatball recipe: $15.50.

Expensive? Mains from $9 to $18.

Is it any good? 'When seeking film director panache in a movie-style setting, fans can't refuse a visit to this sleek, stylish find.' Zagat

Who goes there? Wes Anderson and actor Jason Schwartzman, who happens to be FFC's nephew.

Can we come for dinner tonight? ' Of course, we always have room - it's a casual kind of place.'

In his own words: 'I try to make businesses out of all of the things that I enjoy: food, wine, films.'

Details: 916 Kearny St, San Francisco, Ca, 001 415 291 1700. Seats 60-80.

40/40 (est. June 2003)
Owner: Jay-Z

The shtick: 8,000 square feet of pure sports and entertainment in an opulent lounge setting', is how the rapper's sports bar describes itself. With a 40/40 in Atlantic City and an imminent Las Vegas branch, the square footage is getting bigger.

Chances of seeing him: 40/60. 'If he's in town he'll be there with Beyonce at some point.'
What's his involvement? The rap entrepreneur oversaw everything from design to music.

Type of food: 'Upscale' sports bar snacks: shrimp skewers, mini burgers, pizzitas.

Signature dish: The Picnic - fried devilled eggs and Southern-fried chicken sticks with their own signature 40/40 sauce: $12.

Expensive? Mains $10-18.

Is it any good? 'Prices are sky high, but it's crazy packed with bling-bedecked playas anyway 'cause Hova knows what works.' Zagat

Who goes there? David Beckham, Shaquille O'Neal, Paris Hilton and Britney Spears.

Can we come for dinner tonight? If you're properly attired. There's no guestlist but there might be a bit of a line on weekends.

In his own words: 'I love sports and wanted to create an environment that is conducive to my lifestyle, while being able to watch the games at the same time.'

Details: 6 W 25th St, New York, 001 212 832 4040. Branches in Atlantic City and Las Vegas. Seats 270.

Madre's (est. April 2002)
Owner: Jennifer Lopez

The shtick: Harking back to her Bronx grandmother's cooking, Lopez opened this Latino eatery in Pasadena and made her first husband, Ojani Noa, manager. She fired him six months later. He sued her for breach of contract.

Chances of seeing her: You must be joking. The staff see her every three months, but most of the time she gets food delivered to her home.
What's her involvement? She likes to control her 'brand': she helped design the restaurant, all menu changes need her approval and she sees daily sales reports.

Type of food: Cuban Puerto-Rican: plantain, chicken, rice, steaks.

Signature dish: Prime sirloin steak marinated and sauteed with caramelised onions: $22.

Expensive? Mains $15-42.

Is it any good? 'The place is so impeccably outfitted and the service so pro and gracious, it's a surprise that the food is largely bulk-prepared. It's reminiscent of Cuban wedding food.' - LA Weekly

Who goes there? Jay Leno, Nicole Kidman and Ben Affleck have been spotted. Once.

Can we come for dinner tonight? Sure, but book ahead for weekends.

In her own words: 'It's a family restaurant with a little bit of sexiness to it.'

Details: 897 Granite Drive, Pasadena, California 91101, 001 626 744 0900. Seats 150.

The Half King (est. July 2000)
Owner: Sebastian Junger

The shtick: A blend of writers' bar and an Irish pub, named after a Native American warrior.

Chances of seeing him: He's in a couple of times a month.
What's his involvement? At his Monday night book readings.

Type of food: 'Pub grub done right': pasta, fish and chips, burgers.

Signature dish: Mac & Cheese - with three cheeses, broccoli florets, tomatoes and bacon: $14.

Expensive? Mains $12-16.

Is it any good? 'The King is a great place to toss back a few pints and enjoy good grub.' Time Out NY

Who goes there? Ethan Hawke, Orlando Bloom, Bill Murray.

Can we come for dinner tonight? Book ahead on Monday nights.

In his own words: 'It's great to be able to invite friends to read at your own place.'

Details: 505 W 23rd St, New York 10011, 001 212 462 4300. Seats 150.

Geisha House (est. November 2004)
Owner: Ashton Kutcher

The shtick: A two-storey sushi restaurant 'set in Tokyo 2050' with 'the atmosphere of a surreal high-class brothel'. A second location in Atlanta opened last May.

Chances of seeing him: Good.
What's his involvement? Menu, design and money.

Type of food: Japanese fusion: black cod, kobe beef, sashimi.

Signature dish: Maguro Spicy Taru-Taru Crispy Rice: $28.

Expensive? Mains $8-42.
Is it any good? 'A cut above most other trendy Asian places in its ambition and execution.' LA Times

Who goes there? Paris Hilton, Scarlett Johansson, Janet Jackson and, of course, Demi Moore.

Can we come for dinner tonight? Yes, if you eat in the lounge.

In his own words: 'I ate there last night, and the food was great.'

Details: 6633 Hollywood Blvd, LA, 001 323 460 6300. Seats 225.

Alice Cooper's Town (est. December 1998)
Owner: Alice Cooper

The shtick: 'Where jocks and rock meet' says it all.

Chances of seeing him: Cooper comes by every couple of months.
What's his involvement? He's filled the bar with memorabilia (including the straitjacket from 'The Ballad of Dwight Frye'!).

Type of food: Barbecue: burgers, Cajun fish fry, chicken wings.

Signature dish: No More Mister Nice Guy chipotle pasta: $11.99.

Expensive? Mains $7.99-30.

Is it any good? 'For an Alice Cooper fan this is a must.' Frommers

Who goes there? Members of Kiss.

Can we come for dinner tonight? Yeah, just stroll on in.

In his own words: 'Every athlete I know wants to be a rock 'n' roll star, and every rock star I know wants to be an athlete. This is perfect.'

Details: 101 East Jackson St, Phoenix, Az 001 602 253 7337. Seats 225 (also a Cleveland branch).

Tree Room (est. 1969)
Celebrity owner: Robert Redford

The shtick: A rustic mountain lodge built around a tree by Redford at his Sundance ski resort.

Chances of seeing him: Fair.

What's his involvement? He built the restaurant by hand for $19,000.

Type of food: Seasonal mountain cuisine: wild boar, buffalo.

Signature dish: Pepper Steak: $42.

Expensive? Mains $24-42.

Is it any good? 'The setting is so intimate it's easy to imagine you're a guest of Robert Redford.' Fodors

Who goes there? Hikers, skiers and, during the film festival, any American indie filmmaker.

Can we come for dinner tonight? OK, but book ahead at festival time.

In his own words: 'What you see, smell, taste and feel here is a dream being carefully nurtured.'

Details: 710 Main St, Park City, Utah, 001 801 223 4200. Seats 90.

Southern Hospitality (est. July 2007)
Owner: Justin Timberlake

The shtick: Raucous barbecue joint serving southern comfort food.

Chances of seeing him: High.
What's his involvement? The recipes are his granny's and the jukebox plays his faves.

Who goes there? Jay-Z, Reverend Al Sharpton and Jessica Biel.

Type of food: Good ol' Memphis fare: fried green tomatoes, catfish.

Signature dish: Pulled Pork Sandwich: $10.95.

Expensive? Mains $14.95-30.

Is it any good? 'Remorse at what I've consumed weighs heavily. Or is that just indigestion?' NY magazine

Can we come for dinner tonight? Not a problem.

In his own words: 'We had to negotiate on which ones she was willing to give up.' Timberlake on fighting to use his granny's recipes.

Details: 1460 Second Ave, New York, 001 212 249 1001. Seats 135.
· Have you eaten at a celebrity's restaurant? Tell us about your experience on the OFM food blog, observer.co.uk/foodblog

 

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