Babette de Rozières 

Some like it hot, hot, hot!

Like its West Indian roots, Creole cuisine is colourful, exotic and packed with flavour. It's also surprisingly simple to recreate. In this extract from her book, Parisian chef Babette de Rozières gives us a taste of the Caribbean.
  
  


Parisian chef Babette de Rozières' interest in food was first sparked by her West Indian grandmother, an 'amazing cook', who raised her. 'Whenever she turned her back, I would stick my fingers in her sauces, out of sheer greed.' Growing up, her plan wasn't to own a restaurant - she has a degree in geography - however, in 1978, she decided that she would like to open a Creole restaurant which, with just two seats, was the smallest restaurant in Paris. De Rozières' food was so popular that she was invited to run a 400-cover restaurant in St Tropez. Nowadays she owns the popular La Table de Babette in Paris, and is a TV chef. Her cookery books have won numerous awards and the latest is Creole. Here's a little taster.

Barbecued West Indian fish

Serves 4

For the fish marinade:

salt and black pepper

1 Scotch bonnet chilli, chopped

3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1 onion, coarsely chopped

2 tbs white wine vinegar

4 limes

For the fish:

4 whole mahi mahi or 4 whole snapper

3 tbs peanut oil, plus some for brushing

juice of 4 limes

2 spring onions, finely chopped

1 sprig thyme, leaves finely chopped

1 sprig flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 sprig coriander, finely chopped

1 red onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 Scotch bonnet chilli, finely chopped

salt and black pepper

The day before serving, scale the fish. Place in a bowl big enough for it to marinate in and cover with water. Season with salt and pepper. Add the chilli, garlic, onion and vinegar. Chop the limes into pieces, squeeze them into the bowl then add the pieces to the bowl. Cover then chill in the refrigerator overnight.

The next day, remove the fish from the marinade and dry using a clean cloth. Brush both sides with oil. Barbecue the fish, preferably over wood charcoal, for 10 minutes on each side. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the oil, lime juice, the chopped herbs, onion, garlic and chilli. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top the fish with this sauce. Serve hot.

Pan-fried Mediterranean prawns and chicken breast

Serves 4

12 Mediterranean prawns

500g chicken breast

2 tbs peanut oil

1 sprig chervil, chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

2 tsp finely chopped fresh ginger

2 bird's-eye chillis, cut into fine strips

1 red pepper, diced

1 green pepper, diced

2 tbs balsamic vinegar

juice of 1 lime

salt and black pepper

a pinch caster sugar

a few kaffir lime leaves, snipped into thin strips

Shell and devein the prawns, removing the heads. Thinly slice the chicken breast and the shelled prawns.

Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the chervil, garlic, ginger, chillis and peppers. Fry gently over medium heat for 2 minutes then add the balsamic vinegar.

Immediately add the chicken and the lime juice. Cook for another minute, stirring constantly. Add the prawns. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook for 5 minutes more. Remove from heat, add a pinch of sugar; mix gently. Serve hot, over boiled sweet potatoes, if desired. Garnish with the lime leaves.

Colombo pork loin curry

Colombo spice mix includes garlic, red chilli, turmeric, coriander and mustard seeds. It is available in Caribbean food shops or you can buy it online from www.seasonedpioneers.co.uk.

Serves 6

For the meat marinade:

1 onion chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

pinch ground cumin

salt and black pepper

2 tbs sunflower oil

2 tbs white wine vinegar

For the curry:

1 kg pork loin with rind

3 tbs sunflower oil

2 tbs chicken bouillon granules or 1 chicken stock cube, crumbled)

1 onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 sprig thyme, chopped, minus the stalk

1 sprig flat-leaf parsley

1 bay leaf

2 cloves

1 whole chilli

100g West Indian Colombo powder

1 aubergine, peeled and diced

2 potatoes, peeled and diced

3 courgettes, sliced

1 tbs cornflour

juice of 2 limes

salt and black pepper

Mix together the marinade ingredients in a large bowl and set aside. Cut the pork loin into large chunks and mix into the marinade. Leave in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 hours.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy-based saucepan. When hot, add the drained meat pieces. Sear them over high heat for 10 minutes without letting them brown.

Dissolve the bouillon in 1 litre of water and pour into the saucepan over the pork. Stir in the chopped onion, garlic, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, cloves, whole chilli and the Colombo powder mixed with a little water. Cover and cook at a vigorous boil for 15 minutes.

Add the aubergine, potatoes and courgette; simmer, covered, for 25 minutes. When the meat is cooked, remove it from the sauce and keep hot.

Strain the sauce into a fresh pan, removing the herbs. Cook on medium heat; add the cornflour, mixed with a little water, and stir it into the sauce to thicken it. Add the lime juice and the remaining oil. Top the meat with the sauce. Serve immediately.

Creole seafood risotto

Serves 4

1 tbs olive oil

2 spring onions, finely chopped

6 basil leaves, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

8 shallots, finely chopped

1/2 Scotch bonnet chilli, finely chopped

400g mixed seafood such as cockles, clams, and squid, shelled

8 Mediterranean prawns

1/2 tsp saffron threads

salt and black pepper

1.5 litres fish stock

200g arborio rice

juice of 1 lime

2 tbs crème fraîche

100g grated parmesan

Shell and devein the prawns, removing the heads. Heat the olive oil in a deep-sided skillet or frying pan. Gently fry the spring onions, basil, garlic, shallots and chilli for 2 to 3 minutes. Mix in the seafood and the prawns, then add the saffron. Mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover with the fish stock and cook for a further 2 minutes. Rinse the rice in cold water and then add.

Cook very gently over a very low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally , until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. The rice should now be creamy. When cooked, remove from heat, and add the lime juice and crème fraîche. Mix well and serve hot, sprinkled with parmesan.

Spicy lamb skewers

Serves 4

800g boneless leg of lamb, cut into chunks

2 tbs sunflower oil

pinch ground cumin

pinch ground cardamom

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

salt and black pepper

The day before serving, place meat in a large bowl. Add the oil, cumin, cardamom and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Mix well; let stand in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

The next day, drain the meat pieces and thread onto skewers. Barbecue for 5 to 6 minutes, browning the meat on all sides. Serve hot.

Féroce

This style of avocado purée is popular on the island of Martinique.

Serves 4

200g salt cod

1 clove garlic

1 sprig flat-leaf parsley

2 shallots

2 spring onions

pinch chilli powder

2 avocados

50g tapioca flour

1 lime

3 tbs sunflower oil

salt and black pepper

Place the salt cod in a large bowl of cool water to soak overnight. The next day, place the cod in a saucepan of water and boil over high heat. Drain the water and repeat several times. When the fish is rehydrated, drain and coarsely chop, then transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

In a food processor, chop the garlic, parsley, shallots, spring onion and chilli powder, then add to the large bowl. Cut the avocados in half lengthwise and remove the flesh, retaining the skins. Purée the flesh in the food processor until very smooth, then add to the large bowl. Mix the avocado purée, cod and chopped herb mixture. Add the lime juice and oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper and mix well. Add the tapioca flour and stir until the mixture is very smooth. Fill the avocado skins with the mixture and, if desired, serve on a bed of sliced cucumbers dressed with lime juice.

· Creole by Babette de Rozières (Phaidon, £24.95). To order a copy for £22.95 with free UK p&p go to observer.co.uk/bookshop or call 0870 836 0875

 

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