Just the names of the dishes make you think instantly of cobalt-blue sea and sand almost too hot to stand on, white-washed houses and languorous lunches that last into the evening. If a fortnight in Greece isn't imminent, some homemade taramosalata (much better than anything you'll find in a supermarket) or a plate of tender fried squid can transport you to a beach on the Aegean instead. Greek cookbook writer, TV presenter and chef Vefa Alexiadou has collected hundreds of recipes from all over Greece for her brilliant and encyclopaedic new book, Vefa's Kitchen. Here are some of her favourite classics.

Grilled or fried peppers

Peppers prepared this way taste better the second day and are especially delicious with ouzo or retsina. The chilli pepper will give this a slightly spicy flavour.

Serves 4

500g long mild green or red peppers
1 long hot green chilli pepper (optional)
3 tbs olive oil (optional)
salt

For the oil-vinegar dressing:
120ml olive oil
4 tbs red wine vinegar
½ tsp salt
1 small garlic clove, finely chopped (optional)
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1/8 tsp pepper
For the dressing: put the ingredients into a screw-top jar, fasten the lid, and shake vigorously until thoroughly blended.

Make a slit in each pepper to release the steam while cooking. Grill over charcoal or fry in the oil, turning frequently, for about 10 minutes, until browned on all sides. Transfer the peppers to a deep plate, cover with cling film, and let stand for a few minutes until cool enough to handle.

While they are still hot, peel off the skins and sprinkle them with salt and oil-vinegar dressing to taste. If you fried the peppers, do not add dressing, but sprinkle with 2-3 tablespoons of the frying oil, salt, and vinegar to taste.

Prawn casserole with vegetables

Serves 4

1kg prawns
120ml olive oil
2 onions, sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 large leek, white part only, finely chopped
400g canned chopped tomatoes
1 tbs tomato paste
2 celery stalks, sliced
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into julienne strips
1 Florina or other red bell pepper, seeded and cut into julienne strips
1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into julienne strips
salt and pepper
120ml hot water
25g finely chopped fresh parsley
Peel the prawns, leaving the
heads intact, and de-vein.

Heat the oil in a pan. Add the onions, garlic and leek and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, until softened. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, celery and bell peppers, season with salt and pepper, and pour in the hot water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and the liquid has cooked down to the oil. Lay the prawns on top, sprinkle with the parsley, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 8 minutes more. Serve hot.

Tzatziki

Excellent with bread, vegetable fritters, meatballs or crudités.

Makes 600ml

750ml plain yoghurt
1 long, thin cucumber, peeled and
finely chopped
3-4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¼ tsp salt
3-4 tbs olive oil
3 tbs finely chopped fresh dill

Line a colander with cheesecloth (muslin) or a double thickness of paper towels and spoon the yoghurt into it. Let drain over a bowl in the refrigerator for about 6 hours. Transfer the strained yoghurt from the strainer to a bowl. Stir in the cucumber, garlic, salt and oil. Cover and chill.

Serve in a shallow bowl, sprinkled with the dill.

Garlic sauce

Makes 450ml

5-6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¾ tsp salt
2 potatoes, about 200g total weight, cooked and peeled
50g day-old breadcrumbs
4 tbs red wine vinegar
5 tbs water
120ml olive oil

Process all the ingredients in a food processor at medium speed for 1-2 minutes, until smooth and thoroughly mixed. If the sauce is too thick, add some more water and process for 1-2 seconds more, or until the required consistency is reached.

Olive paste

This is a delicious meze served with ouzo.

Makes 250ml

50g cashew nuts
400g stoned black olives, sliced
3 tbs olive oil (optional)
1-2 tbs red wine vinegar
½ tsp dried oregano
1 small garlic clove (optional)

Put the nuts into a food processor and grind to a smooth paste.

Add the remaining ingredients and process for 1-2 minutes, until the mixture is well blended. Serve with crackers, spread on sandwiches, or use as a sauce for cooked pasta.

Taramosalata

Both pink and white fish roe are available. The white is more expensive and delicate in flavour, but the pink gives the taramosalata its lovely colour. Using half-pink and half-white fish roe is, perhaps, the ideal combination. Also, for a lighter texture, use half olive oil and half sunflower oil.

Makes 450ml

6 thick slices of day-old bread, crusts removed
200g cured cod's roe
2 tbs finely chopped onion
300ml olive or sunflower oil
5 tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice

To garnish:
3 spring onions, thinly chopped
small Kalamata olives

To serve:
crispbread, crackers and ouzo

Tear the bread into pieces, put it into a bowl, pour in a little water and let soak for 5 minutes, then gently squeeze out. Put the roe, onion and a third of the oil in a food processor and process for a few seconds, until the roe is broken down and the mixture is blended. Add the soaked bread, a little at a time, processing after each addition until thoroughly blended. With the motor running, gradually add the remaining oil in a thin, steady stream through the feeder tube until the mixture is smooth and combined. Add the lemon juice, a little at a time, and process for a few seconds until the paste is thickened and pale pink. If the taramosalata is too thick, add a little soda water or water and beat until light and soft.

Transfer to a serving dish, cover, and chill in the refrigerator. Garnish with the spring onions and black Kalamata olives. Serve with crispbread, crackers and ouzo with ice. (You can also substitute 200g cooked, peeled potatoes for the bread and add 65g ground unsalted almonds, peanuts or hazelnuts.)

Baked cheese triangles

Makes 36-48 triangles

2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
4 tbs evaporated milk
500g feta cheese, crumbled
¼ tsp white pepper
pinch of grated nutmeg
5 tbs melted butter
5 tbs olive oil, plus extra for brushing
500g ready-made filo pastry
1 egg yolk, beaten with 1 tsp water, for brushing
sesame seeds, for sprinkling

Lightly mix together the eggs, egg yolk, milk, cheese, white pepper and nutmeg in a bowl. If the mixture is thin and runny, add some more cheese. Combine the butter with the oil in a bowl. Lay the roll of pastry on a chopping board and cut off a piece 6cm wide. Keep the remaining roll tightly covered to prevent it from drying out. Unroll the cut strips and lay one on top of another, lightly brushing each one with the oil mixture. Put 1 teaspoon of the cheese filling in one corner and fold the other corner over it to form a triangle. Then fold the triangle over and over on itself to the end of the strip. Repeat with the remaining strips of pastry.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/

Gas 6 and brush a baking tray with oil. Arrange the triangles on the prepared baking tray. (At this stage you can wrap and freeze them. Remove from the freezer 10 minutes before baking.) Brush with the egg-yolk mixture and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve hot.

Fried squid

Serves 4

1kg small squid, cleaned
vegetable oil, for frying
plain flour, for coating
salt

For the batter:
120g plain flour
salt and pepper
1 tbs olive oil
250ml beer or soda water
2 egg whites

To garnish:
lemon wedges

To serve:
tzatziki, aubergine dip or taramosalata

Rinse the squid under running water and drain. Leave finger-length squid hole, otherwise cut them into thick rings.

For the batter: sift the flour with a pinch of salt and pepper into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in the oil and beer or club soda. Gradually stir into the flour until a smooth, thin batter forms. Avoid overmixing. Add a little more flour if a thicker batter is required. Let stand for about 1 hour. When ready to use, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then gradually fold into the batter.

Heat the oil in a deep-fryer to 200°C. Meanwhile dip the squid into the batter and let the excess drain off, or coat with flour and shake off any excess. Deep-fry the squid or squid rings, a few at a time, in very hot oil for a few minutes until light golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Arrange on a platter, sprinkle with salt, garnish with lemon wedges, and serve immediately with tzatziki, aubergine dip or taramosalata.

Aubergine dip

Makes 450ml

1kg aubergines
¼ tsp salt, plus extra for sprinkling
2-3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
120ml olive oil, plus extra for sprinkling
about 4 tbs red wine vinegar
2 tbs chopped fresh parsley
1 mild green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 tomato, seeded and chopped

Preheat the grill or light the barbecue. Grill the aubergines, turning frequently, until the skins are charred and the flesh is softened. (Cooking the aubergine over charcoal gives the dip a pleasant smoky flavour.)

Remove from the heat and hold each aubergine briefly under cold running water until cool enough to handle, then peel immediately. Do not allow the unpeeled aubergines to cool completely or the flesh will turn black.

When peeled, put them into a strainer and let cool completely. Chop the aubergine flesh and transfer to a bowl. Add the salt and garlic. Beating constantly with an electric mixer on medium speed, gradually add the oil, a few drops at a time, then in a slow, steady, thin stream until all of it has been absorbed. Continue beating and gradually add vinegar to taste, a little at a time.

Transfer to a serving dish, cover, and chill in the refrigerator. Garnish the aubergine with the parsley, chopped bell pepper and tomato. Sprinkle with a little salt and olive oil and serve with crackers or crudités.

Mixed lamb skewers

Serves 8-10

offal from 2 spring lambs: 4 kidneys,
2 livers, and 2 hearts
2 lambs' sweetbreads, soaked in
several changes of cold water for 5 hours and drained
pinch of dried oregano
salt and pepper
1.5kg spring lamb's intestines
about 1 litre red wine vinegar
3 large lambs' cauls, soaked in water
to soften and cut into medium-size pieces
olive oil, for brushing

To garnish:
radishes and spring onions

To serve:
lettuce leaves

Remove and discard any tubes, cores and membranes from the kidneys, livers, hearts and lungs, and rinse well. Sprinkle with the oregano and salt and pepper, and set aside.

Wash the intestines carefully and thoroughly but do not cut into pieces. Place in a bowl, pour over vinegar to cover, and set aside for 30 minutes. Rinse with plenty of cold running water and drain. Thread the organ meats onto three long skewers and wrap the cauls around them.

Secure them to the skewers by winding the intestines up and around so they cover the whole skewer. Brush with olive oil and chill in the refrigerator until ready to cook. (At this stage you can also wrap and freeze them. When ready to cook, thaw fully first.)

Preheat the grill or light the charcoal on a barbecue. Brush the lamb skewers with olive oil and grill or, preferably, grill over charcoal, brushing frequently with oil and turning, for about

1 hour or until browned all over and no pink juices flow when the meat is pricked with a fork.

Make a bed of lettuce on a platter and top with the meat. Garnish with radishes and spring onions and serve hot.

Chicken souvlaki

Serves 4

800g skinless, boneless chicken breast portions, cut into 2.5cm cubes
pinch of dried oregano, plus extra for sprinkling
2-3 tbs olive oil
2 onions, quartered (optional)
2 green bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1in (2.5cm) squares (optional)
1-2 tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
salt and pepper

To serve:
pita bread and tzatziki

Put the chicken into a large bowl, add the oregano and oil, season with pepper, and toss well. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator, turning occasionally, for 6 hours or overnight.

Preheat the grill or light the barbecue. Drain and thread the meat onto skewers, alternating with the onions and bell peppers, if using. Drain the oil into a screw-top jar, add the lemon juice, fasten the lid, and shake vigorously until thoroughly combined. Brush the souvlaki with the mixture. Grill the skewers over charcoal or cook under the grill, turning twice and brushing frequently with the oil-lemon marinade, for 10-15 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Do not overcook, as chicken is lean and tends to dry out.

Season with salt, sprinkle with oregano, and serve immediately with pita bread and tzatziki.

Lemon-roasted potatoes

2kg potatoes, cut into wedges
5 tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
pinch of dried oregano
1 garlic clove, finely chopped (optional)
salt and pepper
5 tbs olive oil
65g butter

Put the potato wedges into a bowl. Add the lemon juice, oregano and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and toss well, then let stand for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas 4. Transfer the potato mixture to an ovenproof dish, drizzle with the oil and dot with butter. Cover the dish with aluminium foil and roast for 1 hour.

Remove the aluminium foil and continue roasting, basting occasionally with the pan juices, for 30 minutes more, until the potatoes are tender and lightly browned. If necessary, add some water during cooking.

Kataifi pastry rolls

Makes 15-18 rolls

250g walnuts, chopped
2 tbs rusk crumbs
1 tbs ground cinnamon
1 tsp grated lemon zest
1 tsp ground cloves
1 tbs brandy
250g kataifi pastry
250ml melted clarified butter, plus extra for brushing
chopped pistachio nuts, to decorate

For the syrup:
600g caster sugar
4 tbs corn syrup or liquid glucose
1 cinnamon stick or 1 tsp grated
lemon zest

Combine the walnuts, rusk crumbs, cinnamon, lemon zest and cloves in a bowl and sprinkle with the brandy. Fluff up the kataifi and divide it into 15-18 pieces. Cover with a damp dish towel while you are working, as it dries out quickly. Tease out one section into a 10cm x 20cm strip. Put 1 tablespoon of the nut mixture at one end and roll up loosely. Make more rolls in the same way.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas 4 and brush a baking pan with melted butter. Arrange the rolls in the prepared pan and drizzle the melted butter evenly over them. Cover the pan with aluminium foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 30 minutes more, or until crisp and golden.

Meanwhile, make the syrup. Put the sugar, corn syrup or glucose, and cinnamon stick or lemon zest into a pan, pour in 450ml water, and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Boil, without stirring, for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and discard the cinnamon. Carefully ladle the syrup over the rolls, letting them absorb it before adding more.

Let cool, then sprinkle with chopped pistachios. Keep uncovered at room temperature for 1-2 weeks.

• Vefa's Kitchen by Vefa Alexiadou is out now (Phaidon, £24.95). To order a copy for £22.95 with free UK p&p go to observer.co.uk/bookshop or call 0330 333 6847.

We have 10 copies of Vefa's Kitchen to give away. To enter send a postcard marked VEFA to E Wiseman, OFM, Kings Place, 90 York Way, London N1 9GU. Entries must be received by 11 June.