First Impressions
A neat row of wellies greeted us on our arrival at the lodger's entrance to The Stapleton Arms. On hand for guests ill-prepared for muddy terrain but wanting a walk, the wellies were the first taste of our host Kav Javvi's brimming hospitality. Having run pubs in London before moving to the country in 2006 to renovate this old coaching inn, Kav knows what people want most from a rural retreat: fresh air, fresh food, comfy beds and a warm welcome. We found all four. The Stapleton Arms lies in a delightful corner of Dorset countryside. Weaving our way there down misty country lanes, we spotted ivy-clad cottages, gnarled apple trees and pretty hedgerows. Our inviting destination sat opposite the church at the heart of the village.
The Rooms
With its modern glass and metal furnishings, our room initially seemed to lack cosiness. The bed's elaborate metal frame, all spirals and spears poking hither and thither, was a little too Lord of the Rings for my taste. But once we'd set down our bags my fears subsided. Plump cushions, soft furnishings and an antique wooden wardrobe ensured that the room stayed true to its rustic roots, while a comfy bed and large, light bathroom with rain shower helped us unwind. Each of the pub's four rooms has television, DVD player and free Wi-Fi, as well as more traditional touches such as fresh flowers and homemade lavender-scented bath salts. Some noise travelled up from the pub below, but it was offset by soothing views of green fields and grazing sheep which were, as it turned out, a chance to eye up dinner.
The Food
Needing no urging from the friendly waiter who, with a twinkle in his eye, whispered "pick the lamb" as he breezed past our table, I plumped for a trio of Sharpham Park lamb (which included an adorable shepherd's pie in miniature). My boyfriend ordered pork belly. He is, admittedly, prone to overusing superlatives, but when he declared the pork the best he'd ever eaten I believed him; the food brimmed with colour, flavour and originality. I was initially dubious about the addition of "a light curry dressing" to a starter of local scallops and roasted butternut squash, but a sprinkling of spice was a fine twist to my lamb's precursor. If I was feeling mean, I'd say that perhaps my main course was a little salty but after I'd spent 30 minutes melting in front of the roaring fire, listening to the hearty laughter of locals, mean wasn't in my vocabulary.
It was almost a struggle to squeeze in breakfast the next morning but we enjoyed fresh fruit with sharp, creamy yoghurt and a fine English breakfast, all served on lovely crockery and rounded off by a hearty walk. The Stapleton Arms' focus on local, seasonal food is a real draw. Not only is the lamb reared within spitting distance of the pub, but Kav sources his pork and eggs from across the road, fish and seafood from the nearby Dorset coast and veg from an allotment tucked behind the beer garden. He seems well on the way to setting up a self-sufficient micro society. I'm in.
The Verdict
A foodie haven, The Stapleton Arms is worth visiting just for dinner, or lunch or breakfast – or for one of the divine-looking home-made pork pies perching on the bar (you get the idea). It's a bonus if you manage to bag one of the four popular rooms to roll back to. The accommodation isn't quite as fancy as some other boutique country boltholes but the rooms are clean, comfy and modern without being pretentious. Whether you're snuggling by the fire in winter or quaffing cider in the beer garden at midsummer, this country pub with rooms promises relaxation.
The Cost
Doubles from £72 including breakfast.
• The Stapleton Arms, Buckhorn Weston, Dorset (01963 370396, thestapletonarms.com).
