It’s a cliche, I know, but the kitchen really is the heart of our family life. I don’t get to eat with the children as much as I’d like – the day job’s not conducive to that – so I have to make a point of setting aside mealtimes to share with them: Sunday lunch and dinner, Monday evenings after school, plus we have breakfast together most mornings. It’s Rachel who does most of the hard work as far as the kids are concerned. Also, since we opened Outlaw’s at The Capital a couple of years ago, I’ve had to go up to London once a week, which is a bit much – my new year’s resolution is to limit that to fortnightly trips from now on.
We’re in the middle of relocating our flagship restaurant from Rock to Port Isaac – the plan is to reopen in the first week of March – so at the moment Jacob and Jessica are seeing much more of their dad than they’re used to. We’re trying to make the most of it, because a new restaurant means you end up doing silly hours; I won’t be around much come March.
If we’re all at home, we always eat together, and Jacob and Jessica always eat what we eat. It makes life so much easier. We’re also very lucky in that they’re both willing to try everything at least once. If they then decide they don’t like it, fair enough; there’s no point forcing it on them. Of the two, Jacob’s a bit more fussy, but that’s probably because, being our first-born, we tiptoed around him a lot more when he was younger and catered to his every whim. We were the complete opposite with Jessica – we just plonked a plate in front of her and left her to get on with it. They both have school dinners (we’re fortunate: their school food is really good), so there’s none of that frantic packed-lunch-making every morning. That means we get proper family time over breakfast just about every day, though that’s bound to change as they get older.
Thankfully, both Jacob and Jessica turn their noses up at most fast food, which as a parent is a huge relief, even though I’m sure that’ll change with time, too. All we can do is teach them the basics about eating healthily. The food we make at home is old-school family fare – pasta, meat pies, roasts, that kind of thing, as well as Indian or Mexican, which they both adore. Jessica’s favourite, though, is a big bowl of mussels, even if she did make a right mess when she was younger. Jacob’s just a typical growing boy: he wolfs down most things. We also make sure there’s plenty of veg at every meal, either in the dish itself or as a side. We have rules about chores, too – it’s the kids’ job to clear the table after dinner.
Like all children, they’re sweet-toothed and adore puddings. Then again, so do I. But we balance that by eating vast amounts of fruit. It’s a constant source of amazement to me how often we have to restock the fruit bowl.
Of the two, I think Jessica’s more of a chip off the old block: as soon as I go in the kitchen, she’ll pull up a chair and ask to join in. It never fails to give me a warm glow inside.
The Outlaws’ shepherd’s pie
Serves 2 adults and 2 children
olive oil 50ml
minced lamb or beef 600g (yes, I know beef is cottage pie!)
salt
freshly ground black pepper
red onions 2 large, peeled and finely chopped
celery 2 sticks, peeled and diced
carrots 2 large, peeled and diced
garlic 4 cloves, peeled, crushed and chopped
fresh thyme 4 sprigs
plain flour 2 tbsp
chopped tomatoes 1 tin
passata 1 tin
lamb or beef stock 500ml
baked beans 1 tin
For the mash
potatoes 800g
milk 100ml
butter 75g
mature cheddar 75g, grated (we use Davidstow, because it’s local)
In a large frying pan, heat half the olive oil and fry the mince, stirring to break it up, until browned all over, then drain in a colander. Season with salt and pepper.
Wipe out the pan and heat the remaining oil. Add the onion, celery, carrot, garlic and thyme, and sweat gently for five or so minutes. Stir in the flour – this helps thicken the sauce – and cook for another three or four minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes, passata and stock, bring up to a simmer and cook for a minute, then return the meat to the pan. Simmer for 30 minutes, then turn off the heat and stir in the beans.
Put the potatoes in a pan of cold water and add some salt. Bring to a boil and cook until the spuds are cooked through, then drain very thoroughly. Pass the potatoes through a potato ricer (or just mash them) with the milk and butter, season and keep warm.
Heat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Taste the meat mix for seasoning, then pour into a large baking dish. Top with the potato and scatter the grated cheese all over. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the top is golden.
Serve in the centre of the table with boiled broccoli and sugar snaps on the side and your choice of sauce – Rachel has brown, the kids have ketchup and I have a bit of sriracha chilli.
