The cantina has been an essential element of urban Mexican life since the 19th century. But with the arrival of fast-food chains, cocktail bars and other contemporary hangouts, old-style cantinas have begun to lose their clientele.

The Riviera was that quintessential cantina, a bit down-at-heel, fading into obscurity. It’s one of the few traditional cantinas left in Colonia Roma, Mexico City’s dining and nightlife hotspot. While a few of the city’s old-time cantinas have become trendy meeting spots, the Riviera was the first to remodel itself as “postmodern”, when it reopened last July.

On the surface, little has changed: decor and ambience remain soothingly retro. Dark panelling, patterned mosaic floors and 1950s blond wood and chrome furniture are as before. But the lighting is kinder, all is polished like new and the music, a mix of old Latin hits, is camp. The kitchen, which once put out mediocre bar food, is now run by Spanish-trained chef David Bravo, who prepares refined regional Mexican fare. Spicy dishes from the Yucatan peninsula predominate, such as cochinita pibil (pork stew flavoured with chilies and achiote), or chiles xcatic, (peppers stuffed with goat’s cheese in a fragrant black bean sauce). Lunch will cost around £8-£10; more than before, but not prohibitive.

Now there’s an eclectic mix of old-time locals and young urban trendsetters. On a recent mid-afternoon, a group of retired Spanish expats engaged in a game of dominos, two bearded and tattooed young men debated the merits of the latest art fair, and a young woman sat at a sidewalk table, balancing a baby and a yoga mat. The Mexican cantina lives on.
• Calle Chiapas 174 B, + 55 5050 5677, open 1pm-1am (later on Fridays and Saturdays)