In the southern Mediterranean, on the edge of the Aegean sea, fire met water and an odd island was born: Santorini.

For years, it was considered one of the Aegean’s poorest islands. It had very little rainfall, but everything that grew on its volcanic soil was full of amazing flavour. Santorini’s most characteristic foods are white aubergines, capers, fava (a purée of yellow split peas) and, above all, cherry tomatoes.

This minuscule indigenous variety is aromatic, delicious and the key ingredient in one of the island’s most famous specialities, tomatokeftedes, or tomato fritters. They are made by mixing finely chopped tomato with onions, marjoram, fresh oregano, flour and, sometimes, feta cheese or grated courgette. This is made into little patties and fried in sizzling oil.

It’s a dish full of vitamins and energy at very low cost, and can be found in most of Santorini’s restaurants. Tomato fritters of exceptional quality are served with a garlicky yoghurt sauce at the Cave of Nikolas taverna right by the sea in Akrotiri, on the south coast. Taverna Roza in the village of Vourvoulos in the north of the island also does great tomatokeftedes, and all the vegetables, including the tomatoes, are grown by Mrs Roza herself.

A leading light in Santorini’s gastronomic movement is award-winning Selene restaurant in the hill village of Pyrgos. Its meze menu includes an excellent gourmet sandwich (€5.50) of warm tomatokeftedes in mini pitta bread with fava sauce.

• Elias Mamalakis is consultant chef at newly opened Suvlaki in London’s Soho