The change in the Oregon landscape was profound: US route 26 had taken me from the rain-soaked, lush green of the Pacific Northwest over Mount Hood and into the central part of the state. As I headed down that beautiful mountain on the three-hour drive from Portland to Bend, forests and foliage gave way to the dry, dramatic and craggy. The car now coasted past creeks and swooped up along ridges, before I swung into Bend: population around 80,000, with 18 breweries, four wineries, three cideries – and almost unlimited year-round access to adventures in the great outdoors.
I had heard of Bend – and done the obligatory chuckling at its name, which was originally Farewell Bend – from a friend in Portland who had suggested there was more to Oregon than the artisan hubbub of her city and the foodie haven that is Eugene, further west. If you’re looking for a perfect small city – compact in scale, big on adventure, but with enough culture and coffee shops to ensure things don’t feel too much like a Thoreau wilderness – Bend, she said, deserved a visit. Her tip was a great one.
Bend is on the eastern edge of the Cascades mountain range, under the volcanic peaks of the Three Sisters and Mount Bachelor, with the Deschutes river running through it. It enjoys an oft-quoted 300 days of sunshine a year, and offers access to more than 300 miles of mountain-biking trails, 71 parks, a thousand climbing routes and 3,600 acres of skiing and snowboarding terrain on Mount Bachelor. Other activities include kayaking, rock climbing, hiking, whitewater rafting, wild swimming, fishing and horse riding.
A drive along the 66 miles of the nearby Cascade Lakes national scenic byway may sound more relaxing than all of that adrenaline-fuelled action, but the views from it are so frequently breathtaking that they quicken the pulse anyway.
WHAT TO DO AND SEE
Mountain biking made easy
Bend’s proximity to greenery means it’s only a few miles and minutes between hiring your bike and hitting the trails. Those trails can be as easy or as challenging as your skills allow. Phil’s Trailhead represents the starting point of a six-mile loop that includes a section of the KGB Trail, known for tight switchbacks and great views. Those views include Mount Bachelor, 20 miles in the distance, which can be cycled to for a close-up view. Pine Mountain Sports has a mammoth array of rentals starting from $20 for a four-hour hire and will set the bike up for you. It also organises group rides.
• 255 SW Century Drive, +1 541 385 8080, pinemountainsports.com
Rock and roll on a historic hike
A 15-minute drive south of Bend, the Lava Lands Visitor Center is a great base for hikes with mountain views. Trek the Trail of the Whispering Pines, or the more challenging Trail of the Molten Land or marvel at the cinder cone of Lava Butte (where Nasa carried out astronaut training prior to the moon landing). Further west on the Cascade Lakes national scenic byway is Sparks Lake, with exquisite water, views of Mount Bachelor and walks ranging from the Ray Atkeson Memorial Trail’s 2½-mile loop to much longer hikes.
• oregon.com
Paddle your own canoe (or kayak)
Tumalo Creek Kayak and Canoe is right on the Deschutes river, but it’s only a few blocks from downtown, on the fringes of the chain stores of the city’s Old Mill district. The staff deal with beginners’ nerves and experts’ questions with equal assurance, and even Wilson, the store’s labrador, is attentive. Rafting, canoeing, kayaking, standup-paddleboarding, group tours, multi-day trips or even classes can all be arranged.
• Solo kayak for two hours $40, double $70, half-day river tour $75. 805 SW Industrial Way Suite 6, +1 541 317 9407, tumalocreek.com
Shop and stroll downtown
Prior to the financial crisis, Bend blossomed; hard times followed, but the past three years have seen a rejuvenated downtown – not that improvement has come without concern over the pace of change, and that civic debate continues. Gems include Dudley’s Bookshop Cafe, Ranch Records, amusement arcade nostalgia at Vector Volcano and local arts and crafts at Just a Little Charm. And on the fringe of downtown is lovely Drake Park and Mirror Pond.
Music and movies, indoors and out
From the 1950s styling of the Tower theatre, with its concerts and movies, to outdoor gigs and events at Drake Park and the Les Schwab Amphitheater, there is plenty to do in Bend apart from adventuring. The Capitol is a recent addition to the city’s music scene, but the Volcanic Theatre Pub, McMenamins Old St Francis School and the Astro Lounge remain essential places to check out for new and established acts.
• Film and music listings, and local information from bendsource.com and bendbulletin.com
WHERE TO EAT
Pizza Mondo
Pizza Mondo, now in its 20th year, has been voted Bend’s Best Pizza 17 times. A downtown spot, it’s open daily from 11am (11.30am on Sundays) until late. The light, crisp pizzas come in two sizes: 18in (from $18) and 15in (from $13), with plenty of combinations, including a build-your-own. The lunch deal of a slice, a salad and a drink from $5.75 is great value.
• 811 NW Wall Street, +1 541 330 9093, pizzamondobend.com
Wild Rose Thai
Bend’s breweries serve good, solid food, but with burgers, fries and pasta to the fore, subtlety isn’t always in abundance. That’s not the case at Wild Rose, a restaurant serving finely nuanced northern Thai cuisine. Among the house specialities, khao soi curry with crispy noodles ($11) is a finely balanced dish, and the tom saap ($6 as a starter) is a zesty soup to savour.
• Soups and starters from $5, mains from $11, 150 NW Oregon Avenue, +1 541 382 0441, wildrosethai.com
Café Sintra
This breakfast-and-lunch joint is named after the Portuguese town, though culinary influences are hard to detect among (fantastic) breakfast dishes such as pancakes, omelettes and waffles – the granola trio ($9.50) and French toast ($8) are recommended. But the lunch menu includes seafood gazpacho (from $6.50), Portuguese chicken stew (from $6), marinated steak and linguiça sausage skewers ($9.50) and an array of sandwich combos. The vibe is friendly, the coffee is great and there’s interesting artwork to gaze at between forkfuls.
• cafesintra.com
McKay Cottage
Open daily 7am-2pm, this slightly out-of-town spot is a hot ticket. It gets busy, but there’s complimentary coffee on the porch for those waiting. Once inside, the berry ola oatmeal ($9.25) and the country biscuits and gravy ($8.95) are outstanding. The menu also offers eggs, crepes, pancakes and sandwiches, plus specialities including white bean chicken chilli and savoury scone ($10.25).
• themckaycottage.com
Brews from beans
Bend is still close enough to Portland for the flame of artisan coffee roasting to burn brightly. It’s easy to find a great caffeine hit, but you may have to queue at Thump Coffee Roasters, despite its two city outposts. A lovely buzz is also provided at Looney Bean and Bellatazza, both near the river, and at Bluebird Coffee Company, with cool art and a serene setting.
WHERE TO DRINK
Deschutes Brewery
Opened in 1988, this family- and employee-owned business was the first of Bend’s new wave of craft breweries. Deschutes has two city locations: its brewery at SW Simpson Avenue and the downtown pub and restaurant at NW Bond Street. Book a free, 45-minute brewery tour, including four complimentary drinks, at the former, and enjoy its award-winning IPAs and porters, along with robust sandwiches and pizza at the latter.
• 1044 NW Bond Street, +1 541 382-9242, deschutesbrewery.com
10 Barrel Brewing Co
Sit at the bar, in the dining area or on the patio (with fire pit, should the air be even more chilled than the beer) at 10 Barrel. To get a real flavour of the quality and variety of its output, try the “10 Sampler”, a selection of 10 3oz drinks taking in its session, seasonal, sours and dark ales for $10.
• 1135 NW Galveston Avenue, +1 541 678 5228, 10barrel.com
Bend Brewing Co
It only produces 1,000 barrels a year, so any visit to Bend Brewing Co has the potential to be special. Try signature ales such as the High Desert Hefeweizen – a blend of pale, crystal and Munich malts – or the Metolius, a refreshing, fruity, golden ale. The brewery, now in its 21st year, has a riverside location with an outdoor patio overlooking Mirror Pond. The weekday lunch special (from 11.30am-2pm) of burger and pint is $10.
• bendbrewingco.com
Crux Fermentation Project
There is an experimental air to Crux. Former Deschutes brewmaster Larry Sidor uses wild yeast strains, experimental hops and open fermentation to craft its pilsners, stouts and IPAs. Crux opened in 2012 and gets rave reviews from locals: its Freakcake is, according to thepourfool.com, one of “the best Belgian-style American ales ever made”.
• 50 SW Division Street, +1 541 385 3333, cruxfermentation.com
Sip
Alternatives to all that ale can be found at Atlas Cider (sweet) and Far Afield Cider (dry), but for a convivial wine bar experience, visit Sip. There’s a selection of white, red and sparkling wines – also available in three-wine flights (from $9) – plus tasty small plates, salads and sandwiches. Regular live music (indoors and on the patio) adds to the ambience.
• 1366 NW Galveston Avenue, +1 541 323 8466, sipwinebend.com
WHERE TO STAY
The Oxford Hotel
The 59-room, seven-storey boutique hotel became the tallest building in downtown Bend when it opened in 2010. It has smart, spacious rooms in natural tones, fine dining at its 10below restaurant, regular jazz concerts, and a commitment to using natural products where possible and running on 100% renewable energy. It’s possible to hire a bicycle for a jaunt around the city, and the staff are a great source of honest recommendations about the local area.
• Doubles from $220/£150, +1 541 382 8436, oxfordhotelbend.com
McMenamims Old St Francis School
McMenamims hotels are famed for their conversions, so it’s no surprise to find this former Catholic schoolhouse, dating from 1936, is now an affordable hotel, restaurant, brewery, music venue and cinema. It’s a bit like a school you’d be happy not to leave. The classrooms are now 19 guest rooms, each named after former teachers, while the design palette mixes dark wood, vibrant artwork and municipal-style fixtures and fittings.
• Doubles from $155, +1 541 382 5174, mcmenamins.com/OldStFrancis
Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast
Bend has several chain hotels, motels and self-catering suites, in town and near to route US-97, but it doesn’t have many B&Bs, which makes Mill Inn a delightful discovery. The 10-room, wooden property is a 10-minute walk from downtown, has an outdoor hot tub, and serves healthy and hearty breakfasts of freshly made frittatas, granola, fruit, yoghurt, and fry-ups of local bacon and sausages.
• Doubles from $100 B&B, +1 541 389 9198, millinn.com
Accommodation and outdoor activities were provided by Travel Oregon and Visit Central Oregon. Car hire was provided by Budget Car Rental. For more information on holidays in the US go to Visit the USA
