Transport

The Japan Rail Pass is cost-effective for a week or more of long-distance travels, but if you’re visiting only a couple of cities, investigate the country’s low-cost airlines: they offer extremely competitive fares. Major domestic carriers such as ANA also have discount tickets for overseas visitors. Long-distance buses can be up to half the price of the equivalent route by bullet train. Companies such as Willer Express provide multi-day passes from £67 for three days to £100 for seven days. The cheapest option of all is hitchhiking: as long as you don’t look too scruffy, Japanese drivers are very accommodating of hitchhikers though some basic Japanese is recommended.

Eating and drinking

Many izakaya (taverns) offer all-you-can-eat (tabehoudai) and all-you-can-drink (nomihoudai) menus from around £20 a head. Nomi-tabe menus can also be found at large karaoke places such as Big Echo. For cheap sushi, seek out the ¥100 (around 70p) conveyor-belt restaurants such as Sushiro or Genki Sushi. Hole-in-the-wall ramen joints and “vending machine” restaurants such as Yoshinoya are also great, with set meals from around £3-£4. Tips are actively refused in Japan, but many restaurants and bars have a seating charge (usually £3-5pp). This charge presents itself as an otoshi, a small, unordered appetiser. Inquire with staff for details and avoid switching between bars and restaurants too often to avoid racking up multiple charges. If you can read Japanese, restaurant website Hot Pepper has discount coupons for many restaurants.

Accommodation

Capsule hotels provide the cheapest stays, but Japan also boasts active Couchsurfing and WWOOFing communities. Airbnb remains a viable option, though stricter regulations have made it more expensive. Airbnb dropped 80% of its listings in Japan in June 2018 after new lodging laws came into effect, leaving many without accommodation. For longer stays, many hostels offer volunteers bed and board in exchange for a number of hours’ light work.

Sightseeing

Most temples (Buddhist) and shrines (Shinto) are free of charge except in Kyoto where visitors have to pay to enter many temples. Museums almost always charge. Many day trip locations outside major cities (for example, Hakone or Nikko, both near Tokyo) offer passes that combine transport with free or discounted entry to local attractions. Ask at tourist information centres in major rail stations.

When to travel

Avoid Golden Week (late April/early May) and cherry blossom season (mid-April) when prices increase drastically, particularly in Kyoto. Instead, visit in mid-March to catch the other spring highlight, plum blossom. The rainy season (mid-June to mid-July) is also cheaper and less crowded.

Sales tax

If you show your passport, many shops will deduct consumption tax (8%) at point of sale – or will have a dedicated tax refund desk. Tax can also be claimed back at your port of departure, so keep your receipts if you haven’t already made a claim. Purchases must be over ¥5,000 (about £35) to qualify.

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