I see my jam-making quests as rather saint-like, saving the fruits of today and giving them a longer lease of life. I know this isn’t a prerequisite to becoming a saint, but I still take a lot of pleasure in making something that can bring so much joy to others. Jam is a lovely thing to share.
Making jam is trickier than most people think. But Granny used to do it, so how hard can it be? But making jam is a bit like baking. It requires time, patience, precision and a little knowledge on how high heat and acid react to the natural pectin in fruit – which, in turn, allows the fruit pulp to “jam up”. Granny used to put a lot more sugar in her jam as a means to set it. Now we are more conscious of sugar intake and rely on the natural pectin to create a set. The set is also dependent on when the fruit was picked: the fresher the fruit, the higher the pectin level. Don’t be disappointed if you get a softer set; it will still taste great.
Fresh apricots are great to use for those new to making jam as they have a medium level of pectin, making for a nice jammy set. Get creative with flavour combinations by adding alcohol, or herbal or nutty elements. Apricots are starting to come into play in May, new beginnings, a sign that summer is just around the corner. As some of us have unexpected spare time on our hands at the moment, this could be the perfect time to learn to make jam.
Apricot jam
Makes 2-3 x 250ml jars
apricots 800-900g (weight without stones)
lemon juice 30ml
water 30ml
granulated sugar 450g
Sterilise your jars and lids by washing in soapy hot water and rinsing thoroughly. Drip dry upside down then place into a warm oven set at 100C fan/gas mark ½ for at least 20 minutes. Place a few small saucers in the freezer.
Prepare the apricots by washing them, removing the stones and chopping the fruit into small pieces – about 1cm cubes. There should be approximately 800-900g of chopped flesh. Place in a wide-rimmed, heavy-based pan.
Add the lemon juice and water, then soften the apricots to a thick pulp for about 10 minutes on medium heat, stirring frequently to stop the apricots from sticking and forming a skin on the bottom of the pan. Be careful, as they will want to stick and burn as the natural sugars are released.
When at a pulp, turn the heat up to high, bringing to a boil. Add the sugar when it starts to bubble, stirring as it dissolves. Bring back to a boil, keeping it at the same heat, stir intermittently and check that it doesn’t catch and burn on the bottom of the pan.
Keep on a rapid boil for about 10-20 minutes; the time will vary depending on the pan and the heat source. Test when the pulp bubbles are heavier and bigger, not rolling like at the beginning.
To test, remove from the heat. Take one of the saucers out of the freezer, place a small drop of jam on the dish and place in the fridge for 1 minute.
After a minute, push this jam with your finger; if the jam wrinkles then it’s ready; if it doesn’t then continue to boil and test every few minutes until it is.
When done, take from the heat. Ladle into the warm, sterilised jars while still hot and seal. Keeps sealed for 8-10 months. Once open, keep in the fridge and eat within 4-6 weeks.
Additional jam flavourings
I like this particular jam with amaretto (add 40-60ml about 5 minutes before it’s ready to wrinkle test) or stir through floral or herb notes such as lavender, rosemary or lemon thyme. I even like to add nuts as they add a bit of texture to jam. Apricots pair nicely with chopped or flaked almonds.
Kylee Newton is the author of The Modern Preserver (Square Peg, £25, available online) and founder of Newton & Pott
