Ah, those blessed days after the Christmas furies have quietened down, the wrapping paper and ribbons are finally dispatched and the dilemma of whether to keep the paper for other things is resolved. The remains of the turkey have been made into the best sandwiches of the year, and thoughts turn once again to the kitchen and what might please in those days before the midnight bells toll for another new year. Such thoughts may result in lists made, shopping done and hours spent pleasantly in the kitchen in preparation for more of that best of times: folk at table.

To begin, a bowl of spiced apricots and figs spooned on toasted walnut bread spread with ricotta and herbs. Then a dazzling salad to brighten the eyes and soul: oranges and beetroot, persimmon, pomegranate and pistachios.

How might a pie please? A suet crust, so simple to make, so much better than most pastry in the shops, laid upon a dish of roast guinea fowl and simmered with wine, bacon and dried porcini, infusing the kitchen with a heady scent. Alongside, a great pot of spiced chickpeas and vegetables, with herbed rice and spiced chutneys.

And to follow, a hazelnut and chocolate cake, spread with a chocolate icing, redolent of ganache, with strips of candied orange peel and gold dipped almonds for festive merriment, served with a syllabub made bright with cognac, sherry and honey.

All recipes serve 6-8 people

A bowl of ricotta, herbs, spiced figs and apricots

A quiet simplicity belies this pairing of spiced fruits. The pickle delights in being made in advance of the proceedings in a sealed jar, bolstering the cook in full swing.

mint 1 small bunch, leaves picked
flat-leaf parsley 1 small bunch, leaves picked
ricotta 250g
extra virgin olive oil 6 tbsp
sea salt and freshly milled pepper
cider vinegar 600ml
water 250ml
caster sugar 150g
coriander seeds 2 tbsp
yellow mustard seeds 3 tbsp
chilli flakes a big pinch
dried figs 300g
dried apricots 300g

Finely chop the mint and parsley leaves. In a large bowl, beat the ricotta with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Add the herbs and mix well. Put this in a handsome bowl, cover and refrigerate until serving.

Put the cider vinegar, water, sugar and spices in a wide stainless steel pan and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the dried fruit (strain the pickling liquor first if the seeds are unwelcome). Return to a simmer and cook gently for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Place in a scrupulously clean container, seal tightly and store in a cool place.

Spoon the pickled fruits into a charming bowl. Serve the ricotta and spiced fruits with a plate heaped with toasted walnut bread or sourdough or both, for people to create their own toasts.

Beetroot, orange, tomato, persimmon, pomegranate, pistachio and mint salad

A delightful bold and bright salad with much tang, as lovely to behold as it is to feast upon. If there are blood oranges to add to this, please add alongside or replace the oranges.

escarole 1 head, picked, washed and dried
watercress 1 bunch, trimmed
cooked beetroot 250g, sliced
persimmon 2, thinly sliced
oranges 4, sliced, reserving juice
tomatoes 4, thinly sliced
pomegranate juice of 1
sea salt
freshly ground pepper
lemon juice 1 tsp
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp
mint 1 bunch, leaves picked
roasted pistachios 75g, chopped
extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp

Scatter the leaves around the edge of a large handsome dish, with any remaining in the middle. Lay on the slices of beetroot, then the slices, holus-bolus, of persimmon, oranges and tomatoes. Spoon over the pomegranate juice. Lightly season with sea salt and freshly milled pepper.

Spoon the lemon juice, reserved orange juice and red wine vinegar upon the salad. Strew the salad with the torn mint leaves and pistachios. Spoon the olive oil over the salad and serve swiftly.

PS If there is any good rocket or landcress to be had, by all means add to the tumble of leaves above or below decks.

Guinea fowl, bacon and porcini pie

Guinea fowl roast excellently, and when added to porcini, wine and bacon the result is a splendid pie.

For the filling
dried porcini 25g
butter 75g
guinea fowl 2
sea salt and pepper
streaky bacon 1 slice
carrots 4
onions 2
leek 1
celery the heart and leaves
olive oil 4 tbsp
garlic 4 cloves, peeled, kept whole
white wine 750ml
bay leaves 4
thyme a small bundle, tied in a posy

For the suet pastry
self-raising flour 225g
suet 115g
organic egg 1
milk 7-8 tbsp
sea salt

For the glaze
egg 1
double cream 1 spoonful

Heat the oven to 180C fan/gas mark 6.

Put the dried porcini to soak in a bowl with warm water.

Evenly butter the birds and season with sea salt and freshly milled black pepper. Place the birds in an ovenproof dish, apart if possible, not touching. Roast for 45 minutes, basting every 15 minutes until golden. Remove from the oven carefully. Check the birds for doneness, inserting a skewer just where the breast is attached to the wing. If the juices run clear, all is good. Leave the birds to cool in the dish.

Cut the bacon into thin strips. Peel and coarsely chop the carrot and onion. Thinly slice the leek and the heart and leaves of celery, and wash them well in cold water.

Warm a wide, heavy bottomed pan over a moderate heat. Add the olive oil. Tip in the sliced bacon and fry gently until golden. Lift the porcini from the bowl, discard the water, coarsely chop and add to the bacon and fry gently for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time. Add the chopped vegetables and the whole garlic cloves, stir well and cook gently under a lid for 30 minutes until quite softened. Add the white wine and bundle of herbs. Cook very gently for 30 minutes more, stirring from time to time.

Lift the birds from the dish and lift away the skin. Pick the meat from the bones, keeping the pieces as large as possible. The breast and thigh meat may require slicing into smaller pieces so all are roughly the same.

Make a stock by placing the scraps and bones in a pan along with any left in the roasting dish. Barely cover with water (about 300ml) and bring to a simmer. Cook for 30 minutes. Strain through a sieve and add to the pot of vegetables. Cook over a brisk heat for a further 15 minutes. Add the meat to the braise and bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes more. Should sea salt and pepper be required, season accordingly.

The filling can be stored and refrigerated overnight if required, or placed in a pie dish roughly 30-35cm in diameter and 7cm in depth, cooled thoroughly, in readiness for the pastry

To make the pastry, sift the flour on to a clean surface and mix well with the suet, then make a large circle with high sides. In a bowl, beat the egg with the milk and a pinch of sea salt. With a large fork, gently add the milk and egg to the flour, stirring all the while until a dough forms. Knead as lightly as possible.

Roll the pastry to fit the top of the dish with a slight overhang. Lay it over the filling and deftly nip gently around the edge. Trim if required. Beat the egg and cream and brush this on to the pastry. Bake at 180C fan/gas mark 6 for 45 minutes, until golden. Check after 30 minutes to see the pastry is not colouring too fast.

A dish of sweet hispi cabbage and slaw

A bowl of cabbage is a lovely thing, but sweet hispi takes to this way of blistering in a pan with vigour, and is given much zip when dressed with slaw.

sweet pointed hispi cabbage 1 large or 2 small
extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp
sea salt and pepper
watercress 1 bunch
parsley 2 tbsp, freshly chopped

For the slaw
savoy cabbage the heart of 1 small, finely chopped
celery heart and leaves of 1, finely sliced
carrot 1, peeled, thinly sliced and finely chopped
red onion 1, peeled and finely sliced
spring onions 1 bunch, trimmed and finely sliced
extra virgin olive oil 5 tbsp
cider vinegar 2 tbsp
lemon finely grated zest of 1
sea salt and pepper

To make the slaw, place all the sliced and chopped vegetables in a large bowl, and dress with the olive oil, cider vinegar, grated lemon zest, sea salt and freshly milled black pepper, adjusting the seasoning if required. Cover and put aside until serving.

Cut the sweet hispi cabbage in half through the root. Cut each half in two or three depending on size. In a wide bottomed frying pan, heat the olive oil and lay in the cabbage, cut side down. Fry gently for 5-7 minutes until coloured golden, then turn gently on to the other cut side and repeat. Place the pieces on a handsome dish.

When ready to serve, tuck the watercress in and around the pieces of cabbage, then spoon the slaw liberally on the cabbage, add chopped parsley and serve.

Spiced chickpeas, cauliflower and spinach

Heaped in a great bowl, this pleasing pot of chickpeas and vegetables simmered with spice, coconut, yoghurt and herbs is an old friend. Serve alongside the herbed rice and fresh chutneys,

olive oil 4 tbsp
onions 2, peeled and coarsely chopped
fresh ginger 2 large thumbs (about 3cm), peeled and chopped coarsely
garlic 4 cloves, peeled
ground cumin 2 tsp
ground coriander 1 tsp
ground mustard seeds 1 tsp
ground cardamom 1 tsp
ground fennel seeds 1 tsp
turmeric 1 tsp
paprika 1 tbsp
dried chilli flakes ¼ tsp
coconut milk or cream 300ml
passata 300ml
chickpeas 2 x 400g tins, drained and carefully rinsed
plain yoghurt 200ml
cauliflower 1, pulled coarsely into florets
spinach 500g, picked, washed free of grit
coriander 1 large bunch, leaves picked and chopped

In a heavy bottomed wide pot, warm the olive oil. Add the chopped onion and cook gently under a lid, stirring often until softened, 20-25 minutes.

Place the ginger and garlic in a blender with 5 tablespoons of cold water and render smooth.

Add the dry spices to the onion and stir gently for 5 minutes. Add the puree of ginger and garlic, and stir gently for 5 minutes. Add the coconut milk, passata and the chickpeas, stir gently, then deftly add the yoghurt. Cover with a lid and cook gently for about 30 minutes. Add sea salt and freshly milled pepper as required.

Plunge the cauliflower into boiling water and simmer for 3 minutes. Drain well and add to the chickpeas. Tear the spinach and add in handfuls to the pot, stirring gently until wilted. Simmer gently, stirring only very lightly without the lid for a further 15 minutes, longer if required. Add the chopped coriander just before serving.

Herbed rice

basmati rice 500g
flat-leaf parsley 1 large bunch, leaves picked
mint 1 large bunch, leaves picked
spinach 200g, washed, picked, blanched for 2 mins, then cooled
unsalted butter 60g
cinnamon stick 1
whole cardamom pods 6

Rinse the rice under cold running water. Leave the rice to soak for 20 minutes. Spoon off any foam and drain, leaving to one side.

Finely chop the parsley, mint and cooked spinach.

Warm a pan over a gentle heat and add the butter. When foaming add the cinnamon stick and whole cardamom pods, and when the scent is released after 30 seconds or so add the rice. Stir well, then add the chopped spinach, mint and parsley along with 1 litre of cold water. Bring all to the boil, cover and simmer for 12 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, undisturbed, leaving the lid firmly on and place on a trivet.

PS Place some sprigs of coriander in a bowl of iced water. Carefully drain after half an hour then place in a bowl, cover and refrigerate. Lay these on the rice when serving.

Coriander chutney

cumin seeds 2 tsp
chilli flakes a pinch
coriander 1 large bunch, leaves picked
flat-leaf parsley 1 small bunch, leaves picked
green chilli 1
lemon juice of 1
plain yoghurt 200ml

Toast the cumin seeds in a pan over a moderate heat. Remove immediately the scent is released and tip into a spice grinder with the chill flakes and render to a powder. Add this to the picked herbs in a blender, and add the green chilli, lemon juice and 4 tablespoons of cold water. Blend all until smooth, scraping the sides if required. Add the yoghurt and whizz briefly until mixed. Decant into a pretty bowl, cover and refrigerate.

Yoghurt, cucumber and mint

cucumber 1 large
plain yoghurt 350ml
mint 1 large bunch
salt and black pepper

Peel the cucumber, then cut it in half lengthways. Slice and finely chop. In a bowl, mix the yoghurt, mint and cucumber with a pinch of sea salt and a large pinch of freshly milled black pepper. Decant into a pretty bowl, cover and refrigerate.

Hazelnut and chocolate cake, with honey and sherry syllabub, and candied orange peel dipped in chocolate

For the syllabub
amontillado sherry 3 tbsp
cognac 1 tbsp
orange juice 3 tbsp
lemon juice 1 tsp
honey 4 tbsp
double cream 300ml

For the chocolate cake
caster sugar 220g
unsalted butter 300g, softened
70% cocoa chocolate 200g, broken into thumb-sized pieces
organic eggs 6
hazelnuts 500g, shelled, roasted and ground (hold back 25g for decorating)
vanilla essence 1 tsp
amontillado sherry 75ml

For the ganache
70% cocoa chocolate 250g, broken into thumb-sized pieces
double cream 250ml

To make the syllabub, place all but the double cream in a bowl. Mix well, then cover and refrigerate.

When ready to serve, pour the cream into a large bowl and stir gently with a whisk while slowly pouring in the honey and wines. Whisk until the syllabub has soft peaks. Transfer to a lovely bowl.

To make the cake, heat the oven to 160C fan/gas mark 4. Place the sugar and butter in a bowl and beat until pale for at least 12-15 minutes.

Place a small pan of water to simmer over a moderate heat. Place the chocolate in a ceramic or stainless steel bowl that can sit on the rim of the pan, the bottom not touching the water. Do not disturb.

Separate the egg yolks from the whites. Add the egg yolks one at a time to the butter and sugar. Then add the hazelnuts, melted chocolate, vanilla essence and sherry mixing deftly and quickly. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks, then fold gently into the batter and smooth into a 25cm cake tin (or fluted tart tin), greased and lined with baking paper. Place in the oven and bake for 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool in the tin.

When cooled, remove the cake from the tin and lining paper, and transfer it to a large plate.

To make the ganache, break the chocolate into small pieces. Place the cream in a pan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate and stir until smooth. Pour the mixture into a bowl and beat until the mixture cools and stiffens. This is best done in a mixer.

Spread the ganache over the cooled cake in swirls and whorls. Strew with the 25g of chopped hazelnuts, place chocolate dipped orange peel (see below) around the edges, and, if you like, gold dipped almonds for a riot of confectionary.

Serve with the syllabub.

PS A lovely thought here is candied orange peel, quickly, carefully, dipped in the chocolate melting for the cake, laid on a sheet of greaseproof paper and chilled.

Jeremy Lee is chef-proprietor of Quo Vadis, London W1, and the author of Cooking: Simply and Well for One or Many (4th Estate, £30)